Summary
GoTravelDaily Destination Editor for Central & Eastern Europe Sandie Kestell recently traveled to Moldova and Transnistria. Here, she shares some recommendations and insights for those considering a similar itinerary.
When I informed people of my plans to embark on a journey to Moldova, the reactions were varied, ranging from “Wonderful!” to “Why would you go there?” and even “Where exactly is that?” This small nation located between Romania and Ukraine may not be on many travelers’ radars, yet once it captured my interest, I became determined to visit.
My sister and I enjoy exploring less-traveled paths and share a passion for the history and architecture of the former Soviet Union. A friend of hers had toured Moldova and the unrecognized republic of Transnistria over New Year with Young Pioneer Tours (YPT), returning with captivating stories and photographs that piqued our curiosity. We promptly enrolled in the YPT Transnistria National Day & Gagauzia Tour, adding extra time in Chişinău to explore the city independently.
Where did you stay? What was the vibe?
Our journey took us to various hotels, but one in particular stood out: Hotel Chişinău. This Soviet-style edifice boasts an impressive façade and significant character. The accommodations are basic and occasionally worn, but the experience is more about stepping back in time to the Soviet era than indulging in luxury, aligning perfectly with the theme of our YPT tour. [Moreover, hot water is available; it simply requires a bit longer to flow than usual…]
If this does not appeal to you, I suggest the more contemporary Bristol Central Park Hotel, where we spent our initial night in Chişinău before joining our YPT group. Its central location is exceptional, and the rooms are spacious, equipped with modern conveniences.
What was the most under-the-radar activity you enjoyed?
Much of our time in Chişinău was dedicated to discovering relics from yesteryears and unique oddities.
We ventured to the verdant Valea Morilor Park to find the diminutive Little Prince Statue and the even smaller Little Prince’s Rose – two whimsical touches along the lakeside railing.
Mosaics from the Communist era are sparse, but we managed to locate a small piece on Strada Tighina and a much larger one on Strada Vasile Lupu. Our most significant discoveries were not hidden but rather overlooked.
The sprawling Chişinău State Circus, located centrally, has been abandoned since 2004, serving as a monument to a bygone era. Despite its state of decay, the building remains striking. We were particularly intrigued by the dancing clown insignia above the former entrance, particularly the headless clown that adds a haunting quality to the structure. We further explored the derelict National Hotel across from Hotel Chişinău, led by our YPT guide Ravi, who took us inside this Soviet-era hotel now in advanced decay, up to the rooftop for sunset drinks with a panoramic view over the city.
Favorite activity from the trip?
Upon crossing the border into the lesser-visited breakaway republic of Transnistria (known locally as Pridnestrovie), we arrived in Bendery and encountered knowledgeable local guides Maria and Dmitri from GoTransnistria. We embarked on a walking tour with Maria, our expert guide, to delve into the city’s rich history and architectural heritage, including several buildings adorned with mosaics.
The streets of Bendery are broad, well-maintained, and lined with trees, exuding a pleasant ambiance. One of the most striking stops was the railway station, which is currently inactive, presenting an almost ghostly appearance. Adjacent to it stands the Museum Complex of the Glory of Railway Workers, housed in a decommissioned Soviet locomotive and a memorial commemorating the railway workers. Maria also guided us to the distinct Gorky Cinema building, which features an opulent interior—by far the most lavish cinema I have ever encountered. We paused at the Lenin statue situated in the nearby park before continuing to appreciate the mosaics adorning the Palace of Culture building.
Best thing you ate?
We were treated to an extraordinary spread of local dishes during our visit to Casa Karaman house museum located just outside Tiraspol. Babushka Angelica is the ninth generation of her family to maintain the property. After touring the rooms and learning about her origins and local customs, we dined in the courtyard at tables overflowing with fresh, locally sourced specialties: salads, breads, cheeses, a delicious noodle and vegetable soup, accompanied by jugs of regional wine—all delightfully fresh and generous in serving size. This experience epitomized Transnistrian hospitality, as Angelica and her staff provided continual refills and offered seconds at every opportunity.
Best tip for someone who wants to plan the same trip?
The YPT itinerary we participated in was strategically planned to coincide with Transnistria’s National Day on September 2, which presents a compelling occasion to explore Tiraspol and witness the festivities, including ceremonial celebrations and a Soviet-style military parade—though the most recent parade was notably scaled back in response to the Russia-Ukraine conflict.
Dmitri from GoTransnistria served as our local guide for the day, elaborating on the historical context surrounding the day’s events, including a discussion of the Soviet period, the Second World War, and the 1990s Transnistrian War. His detailed responses to our inquiries were invaluable.
The atmosphere in the city was festive, characterized by a variety of food and craft stalls, families and friends mingling, and a large stage hosting traditional Moldovan, Romanian, and Russian music and dance performances. The dance troupes were a personal highlight, and I was thoroughly entertained by their distinctive styles and dynamic choreography. Our guide Dmitri, being a former champion dancer, even showcased a few moves, much to the audience’s delight.
What should travelers know when visiting Transnistria?
Numerous government travel advisories caution against visiting Transnistria due to its vicinity to Ukraine and their inability to assist travelers as it lies outside the jurisdiction of the Moldovan government.
It is prudent to conduct thorough research prior to any travel to ensure a reasonable expectation regarding safety. Throughout our time in Transnistria, we felt completely secure and found the local populace to be welcoming. We chose to travel with YPT to benefit from the expertise of an experienced guide and to leverage their local knowledge and connections.
Would we return? Absolutely.
