Historically recognized as a nexus for design, art, architecture, industry, and music, Detroit stands out as one of the most captivating cities in the United States. I developed a deep appreciation for its elegant art deco skyscrapers, rich history, and tenacious spirit during my initial visit in 2013, and each subsequent visit has unveiled additional aspects of its allure. Begin your personal exploration of Detroit with this itinerary centered around the downtown area, which has undergone significant revitalization in recent years.
-
When to Arrive: The months from May to September are the optimal period for visiting Detroit, as spring is often chilly and rainy while winter experiences harsher cold and snowfall.
-
Transportation: Detroit Metropolitan Airport (DTW) is situated approximately 20 miles from downtown. Consequently, rideshare services may incur high costs. The Detroit Air XPress provides a reliable option at $6 when purchased in advance, or $8 on the bus, delivering you to the city in roughly 40 minutes, with departures every 90 minutes. Alternatively, for those with more time, the FAST Michigan 261 service costs only $2, albeit with over an hour’s travel time to downtown.
-
Getting Around: As the birthplace of Ford, Chrysler, and GM, Detroit was designed with automobiles in mind, making driving the most practical means of transportation within the city’s sprawling 7.2 square miles of downtown. Nevertheless, central attractions can also be accessed via the QLINE, city buses, and occasional rideshares.
-
Where to Stay: Numerous historic buildings in Detroit have been repurposed as boutique hotels, offering unique lodging experiences. My top recommendations include the Detroit Foundation Hotel, which showcases locally inspired decor within a renovated fire station; The Siren Hotel, known for its art nouveau influences and upscale bar; and the Victorian charm offered by The Inn on Ferry Street.
-
What to Pack: The Midwest is known for its informal atmosphere, and Detroit is no exception. While upscale dining experiences may feature more formal attire, wearing jeans and a sweatshirt will suffice in most settings. For those planning to cross into Canada, it is essential to carry your passport.
Itinerary
Friday
Morning: Initiate your weekend in Detroit at Michigan Central Station. Once emblematic of Detroit’s downturn, this grand 1913 structure—designed by the same architects responsible for New York City’s Grand Central Station—has been meticulously renovated by Ford. Consider joining a guided tour for a comprehensive understanding of its history. In addition, Yellow Light Coffee plans to open a location within the station by late 2024, while notable breakfast venues nearby include Folk and Summer Town Fresh Bar.
How to Spend the Day: Stroll a few blocks to Corktown (Michigan Ave, between Rosa Parks Blvd and 17th St), one of the first neighborhoods to rejuvenate in the early 2000s, thanks to the emergence of establishments such as Slows Bar BQ and The Sugar House. Explore the area and select a restaurant for an enjoyable lunch.
If the weather permits, make your way to Belle Isle in the heart of the Detroit River, ideal for trail walking or cycling. The park encompasses the entire island, making it a wonderful location for families. Be sure to visit the aquarium, hosted in a stunning 1904 Beaux-Arts structure by eminent Detroit architect Albert Kahn. Its vaulted ceiling, adorned with luminous green opaline glass tiles, creates an underwater ambiance.
On a rainy day, lose yourself in the expansive collection at John K. King Books, a used and rare bookstore located within a former glove factory that boasts over 1 million titles spread across four floors.
Dinner: While Detroit’s fine dining options remain relatively limited compared to other major cities, the scene is beginning to flourish. Consider dining at SheWolf Pastificio & Bar, where you can savor exquisite Italian cuisine complemented by an exceptional wine selection.
After Dark: A post-dinner drink at Castalia at Sfumato offers a memorable experience. By day, this intimate space located in the basement of a Victorian mansion operates as a perfume shop, transforming into a cocktail bar at night with drinks inspired by its fragrances.
Saturday
Morning: Begin your Saturday by enjoying an egg sandwich from the walk-up window at Iggy’s Eggies, then walk to the point from which Detroit’s celebrated Mile Roads are measured: Campus Martius Park. This park also serves as the starting location for the 10am downtown walking tour with Preservation Tours ($18), highlighting architectural wonders such as the Guardian Building, which once ranked as the tallest building globally, as well as historical insights into Detroit’s rich heritage.
How to Spend the Day: After your walking tour, enjoy a classic Detroit coney dog from Lafayette Coney Island to recharge before continuing your exploration via the complimentary QLINE to the Fisher Building, another splendid design by Albert Kahn. Opt for a guided tour with Pure Detroit ($15), or simply relax with coffee, explore arcade shops, and admire the intricate mosaics created by Hungarian artist Géza Maróti. From there, proceed to the Motown Historical Museum, which chronicles the legacy of Berry Gordy’s legendary independent record label and its influential music genre. Guided tours ($20) require prior booking; the last Saturday tour is at 7pm.
Dinner: Embrace the day’s automotive theme by indulging in Detroit-style pizza at popular establishments like Michigan & Trumbull or PieSci Pizza. This style features a thick, chewy crust with a focaccia-like texture and crisp edges, with both restaurants providing gluten-free and vegan options.
After Dark: Further delve into Detroit’s music culture with an evening drink at Cafe D’Mongo’s Speakeasy, a charming and eclectic dive bar that has been a staple of the city since 1985. Live soul and jazz performances take place each weekend.
Sunday
Morning: After a busy weekend, treat yourself to an indulgent brunch at The Whitney ($69), a splendid 1894 Romanesque revival mansion established by lumber magnate David Whitney Jr. Following your meal, consider touring the mansion and grounds.
How to Spend the Day: Cross the street to discover one of the world’s most captivating museums, the Detroit Institute of Arts ($20). The Diego Rivera Detroit Industry murals are a highlight, yet the museum also boasts an extraordinary collection of American artwork.
After reveling in the 100 galleries, enjoy a light late lunch at the quaint Kitab Cafe and Bookstore. Stroll down Willis St to 3rd Ave, turn right onto W. Canfield St for a glimpse of Detroit’s pre-automobile history along the West Canfield Historic District, featuring 1800s upper-middle-class residences. Continue towards Woodward Ave for local shopping, visiting Shinola, City Bird, Source Booksellers, and Third Man Records. Don’t forget to stop for a delightful treat at the innovative chocolatier Bon Bon Bon.
Dinner: If you remain through the evening, consider participating in Detroit’s Hare Krishna community at their weekly Sunday Feast (free, 6pm). The temple was formerly home to Lawrence Fisher, one of seven brothers who amassed a considerable auto-body manufacturing fortune. This impressive 50-room mansion, built in 1928, combines Spanish, Moorish, and Renaissance styles with an extensive collection of Hare Krishna art and artifacts. Temple tours are offered at 4pm and 6:30pm on Sunday ($15 suggested donation).
In conclusion, depart with a newfound appreciation for this extraordinary American city and consider future visits to explore its outer neighborhoods (Hamtramck! Ferndale! Royal Oak!), catch a football, basketball, or baseball game, or discover regional gems like Ford House, the Dearborn Historical Museum, Greenfield Village, or Cranbrook House.
