Summary
Few locations evoke visuals quite like the Bahamas. Envision impossibly azure waters, swaying palms, and sugar-soft beaches extending across a horizon artistically painted in watercolor tones, all set to the lively rhythms of a Goombay drum. Fortunately, it is feasible to experience all of this in a single weekend; one merely needs to know where to find it.
This Bahamas weekend itinerary harmonizes the historic allure and vibrant beats of Nassau, the largest city of this island nation, with a lesser-known treasure only a 30-minute flight to the east – the splendid Cat Island. While Nassau presents a slice of Bahamian urban life, Cat Island is where the quintessential Bahamian dreams – from tranquil beaches to authentic local experiences – genuinely come alive.
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When to arrive: Arrive in Nassau on a Thursday to allow ample time to explore the Bahamian capital before proceeding to Cat Island, which is serviced by daily flights through Western Air. The ideal time to visit spans from December to April, when conditions are optimal for exploration – pleasantly warm and dry, though it also marks the peak tourist season, so anticipate larger crowds.
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How to get around and what to pack: Automobiles serve as the primary mode of transportation in the Bahamas; therefore, consider renting a car or utilizing taxis and hotel shuttles. Traffic adheres to the British system, so drivers should remember to keep to the left side of the road. Essentials to prepare include sunglasses, reef-safe sunscreen, swimwear, and water shoes for the rockier sections of shoreline.
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Where to stay: In Nassau, options range from the luxurious Baha Mar (from $275/night, plus fees), which encompasses three Grand Hyatt, SLS, and Rosewood properties with excellent beaches and pools, to Atlantis (from $224, plus fees), featuring seven accommodation options that cater to families as well as luxury travelers, along with a water park and a marine habitat showcasing aquariums and marine life-infused pools. On Cat Island, Rollezz Beach Villas Resort (from $259) provides private beachside villas, while Greenwood Resort (from $180) is popular among water enthusiasts, with diving, snorkeling, and kite surfing readily available right off the beach.
Thursday: Experience Nassau
How to spend the day
Utilize your initial day in the Bahamas to familiarize yourself with Nassau’s captivating and intricate heritage. Your first destination should be the Fort Fincastle Historic Complex – constructed in the late 1700s to safeguard Nassau from pirates. The fort’s position atop Society Hill and Bennet’s Hill affords a superior viewpoint for sweeping vistas of the city. Do not miss the iconic Queen’s Staircase (nicknamed The 66 Steps) to gain insight into this lush historical landmark, carved from bedrock by enslaved Africans.
Now, regarding those pirates… The Caribbean’s golden era of piracy spanned from the late 1600s to the early 1700s, with Nassau emerging as a “hub of pirate enterprise” according to certain historical accounts. Situated along a pedestrian-friendly section of George St in downtown Nassau, the Pirates of Nassau Museum delivers an educational if somewhat theatrical presentation of the islands’ pirate lore (envision numerous tricorn hats and plastic cutlasses).
A more authentic stop is John Watling’s Distillery, a historic rum distillery housed within a beautifully restored 18th-century estate. Named after a 17th-century buccaneer, the distillery provides brief yet informative (and complimentary) tours, covering topics ranging from the islands’ pirate history to the intricacies of rum production. Relax in the tasting room for a flight of rum or enjoy the delightful house piña colada.
For dinner
Continue the historical ambience with a dining experience at Graycliff Hotel & Restaurant, situated in a mansion that dates back to 1726. The Graycliff’s sophistication is palpable – the interior, characterized by dark woods, vintage artwork, and Victorian-style furnishings, is imbued with a lingering scent of tobacco (the Graycliff brand also produces its own cigars).
The menu presents a fusion of Bahamian and European flavors, featuring dishes like truffle ravioli and fresh conch salad as starters leading to main courses such as hog snapper filet and beef tenderloin. Note that a dress code is in place – trousers are mandatory and a jacket is advisable. However, during my visit, casual attire was somewhat more reminiscent of Margaritaville than Monte Carlo.
After dark
Should you still have energy, consider visiting one of Nassau’s cocktail establishments. Bon Vivants Cocktail Bar at Sandyport combines craft cocktails with vibrant tropical décor.
Friday: Travel to Cat Island
Morning
Commence the day with a leisurely beach stroll. While I stayed at the Grand Hyatt Baha Mar, I ambled down to the hotel’s Cable Beach, adorned with vacant lounge chairs. The water exuded a quintessential Caribbean blue, with a few early risers wading in its refreshing embrace. Alternatives nearer to downtown Nassau include Junkanoo Beach, a livelier locale frequented by locals, and Saunders Beach, more tranquil, offering a perfect setting for a serene morning walk.
Get some breakfast
Nesbitt’s, located approximately 25 minutes from downtown at Delaporte Point, is a premier breakfast destination. Bahamian-themed banners dangle from the ceiling while a jukebox plays hits from the ’60s, ’70s, and ’80s, providing a nostalgic touch. The furnishings are straightforward yet functional – folding tables and aluminum chairs are strewn across the dining area, and the patio presents a splendid view of the sea. Sample their red snapper stew – a delectable, creamy, slightly spicy dish complemented by hints of thyme and garlic, served alongside a side of grits and zesty scotch bonnet sauce.
Catch your flight
Proceed to the airport to catch your early afternoon flight to Cat Island. With only one flight operating daily, ensure you arrive early and listen attentively to boarding announcements; the flight is known to depart early if all passengers are present. You will board a small regional jet with limited baggage space, thus you will likely need to check your carry-on prior to boarding. The flight duration is approximately thirty minutes – secure a window seat, as you’ll spend the entire journey gazing out at the archipelago scattered across the ocean.
Arriving on Cat Island
Aside from a mail boat that traverses the distance from Nassau in 12-15 hours (an adventure in its own right), options for reaching Cat Island are limited. Planes serve as the primary connection between Cat Island and the broader Bahamas. Arrange pickup with your accommodation or procure a rental vehicle from Gilbert’s Car Rental.
Cat Island’s primary airport (officially New Bight Airport) is charmingly modest, featuring a singular runway and a tiny terminal housing a ticketing counter, security screening, and restrooms (departing passengers wait beneath a canopy outside the terminal). You may need to wait for your luggage, so take a moment to observe the vibrant community here.
Use the afternoon to explore the beaches
Shaped like a fishhook, Cat Island is a long expanse of land with its eye directed northwest, and visiting the serene beaches is the optimal way to settle in upon arrival. Typically, eastern shore beaches face the Atlantic and experience more exposure to elements, with varying wave conditions based on weather. Conversely, the western side typically offers calmer beaches.
The beach at Rollezz Villas Beach Resort is among the finest, characterized by a west-facing stretch of powdery sand ideal for witnessing stunning sunsets. On the eastern side of the island, Greenwood Beach Resort showcases one of the Bahamas’ few pink sand beaches (it possesses a subtle hue, nevertheless still pinkish). Dine at your accommodation and ensure to set an alarm for an early start on Saturday to continue exploring.
Saturday: Explore Cat Island
Morning
It’s time to discover Cat Island’s principal attractions. Begin at the Healing Pond for a refreshing swim; this natural pool boasts a high mineral content and salinity, renowned for its supposed therapeutic properties. According to local lore, residents identified the beneficial qualities of the water while bathing their workhorses – after a dip, the horses emerged revitalized and ready for work. Regardless of its healing abilities, the Healing Pond is an inviting place to bathe – the elevated salt concentration will keep you buoyant, and the water has a pleasant, silky sensation. Remember to bring water shoes, as the shore of the pond is rocky with sharp edges.
For lunch
Make sure to visit Lakeview Motel & Restaurant located on the island’s southern side. Owned and operated by local legend Harrison King, the establishment serves Bahamian staples such as conch fritters, fried mahi-mahi, pumpkin, cassava, and fresh salad. Upon Cat Island, locals don many hats, and Harrison King has previously worked as a bus driver, police officer, local farmer, and motel proprietor.
If he is onsite, he will entertain you with tales of island life, recounting adventures such as getting lost while hunting land crabs, or sharing stories referring to life with a badge on one of the Bahamas’ most relaxed islands. Should you request, he may provide a tour of one of his nearby farms, sharing insights into the demanding yet fulfilling work of local agriculture on Cat Island. The watermelon you enjoy for dessert? It likely came fresh from one of Harrison King’s fields.
In the afternoon
Once your appetite is satisfied, set your sights on Mt. Alvernia, the highest point in the Bahamas at 206 feet. Although modest by mountain standards, this site possesses immense historical significance. Perched atop hand-carved steps to the summit resides the Hermitage, a quaint monastery constructed by architect-hermit Father Jerome in the 1940s. The monastery’s stone walls provide a historical backdrop to the bushy hilltop, and the view is one of the finest on the island, offering 360-degree panoramas of the shoreline.
For a duration, Cat Island was believed to represent Guanahani, the Lucayan name given to the island where Christopher Columbus first landed in 1492. Today, most historians ascertain that Guanahani was actually San Salvador to the east, yet numerous locals firmly hold that Cat Island was the true site of Columbus’s arrival.
Irrespective of which island Columbus first encountered, the advent of the Spanish significantly influenced the Caribbean and the world. Over the following decades, Spanish forces obliterated the Indigenous Lucayan population through genocide and enslavement, transforming the Caribbean into the axis of the Atlantic Slave Trade.
Prior to emancipation in 1834, as many as 50 plantations operated on tiny Cat Island (an island measuring a little over 150 square miles). Twenty of these have been identified, with one being the dilapidated yet still distinguishable Deveaux Plantation, an 18th-century cotton estate owned by Colonel Andrew Deveaux.
The British awarded this plot of land to the colonel after his assistance in defending Nassau from the Spanish in 1783. Presently, only the walls and a few ceiling beams stand in the main structure, with the external stucco cracked and weathered. In the cookhouse at the back, a massive tree has grown through the open ceiling, symbolically reclaiming the land from this dark chapter in Bahamian history.
Dinner and drinks
The nightlife on Cat Island is generally serene; however, should luck be on your side, you might experience an authentic rake and scrape session. Traditionally performed with a goatskin drum, carpenter’s saw, and screwdriver, rake and scrape represents the quintessential folk music of the Bahamas.
Believed to have originated in Turks & Caicos, this informal dance music arose from the descendants of enslaved Africans employing everyday objects as makeshift instruments. In contemporary settings, an accordion or guitar often accompanies the performance, although the characteristic scraping of the saw remains distinctive to the style.
On Cat Island, local establishments such as Yardie’s in New Bight or Hidden Treasures in Arthur’s Town may occasionally host invigorating rake-and-scrape nights. Do not shy away from participation – rake and scrape entails audience engagement, and you might find yourself invited to join in and learn a step or two (even I managed to acclimate to the uncomplicated heel-toe rhythm of the “conch step”). The island’s yearly Rake & Scrape Festival typically occurs in May or June.
Sunday: A last taste of Cat Island
Morning
Before departing on your noon flight from Cat Island, visit Olive’s Bakery in New Bight for guava bread, a sweet delicacy common throughout the tropics, prepared from chopped guava, flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, and vanilla.
For a final glimpse of the island’s intriguing culture, make sure to stop at Sweet P’s Bush Teas (it is advisable to call ahead to confirm their hours). Local herbalist Peggy Johnson creates natural teas utilizing herbs, spices, flower petals, and leaves indigenous to the island.
Peggy will demonstrate her preparation process for various products, including specialty teas like “soursop” (a reputed cure-all tonic claimed to enhance immunity, promote digestion, and stabilize blood pressure) and artisanal soaps. These creations are distinct from conventional chamomile – according to Peggy, some of her potions are believed to augment longevity.
As you prepare to depart, you may find yourself scrutinizing each leaf and petal in sight, pondering their hidden potential; however, resist the urge to concoct your own home blend – it is best to leave the magic to Peggy and her vast expertise!
Leaving the Bahamas
While boarding my flight back home from Cat Island, the lingering flavors of guava bread and bush teas remained. As I embarked on the slow and cumbersome journey typical of modern air travel back to the US, I reflected on the richness of my experiences in the Bahamas.
Everything I had envisioned prior to my arrival was present – the pristine waters located just steps away from Rollezz Villas Beach Resort, ample palm trees, and an abundance of beautiful sunsets, far exceeding what I would typically observe in a month back home – yet there was even more.
I unearthed a complex colonial past amid the crumbling plantations scattered throughout the island, embraced a vibrant musical legacy during an energetic rake and scrape jam session, and savored some exceptional cuisine. And remarkably, I have only merely begun to scratch the surface – there remain approximately 700 additional islands and cays waiting to be discovered. I will undoubtedly return…
