Summary of the Nova Scotia Road Trip
Reputed as Canada’s ocean playground, Nova Scotia earns its designation due to its near-complete encirclement by the Atlantic Ocean. However, coastal enjoyment marks just the commencement of the adventures awaiting you on a road trip that weaves together Nova Scotia’s natural beauty and rich cultural heritage, including three UNESCO World Heritage sites and a fourth contender for this esteemed recognition.
Allocate six to eight days to navigate through the picturesque fishing town of Lunenburg, the French Acadian heritage site of Grand-Pré, the globally significant archaeological shoreline at Joggins Fossil Cliffs, and the Fortress of Louisbourg. Additionally, relish the scenic routes connecting these destinations. Prepare for an exhilarating journey.
Optimal Visiting Period: The operational hours of many attractions limit the prime visiting timeframe to mid-May through mid-October.
Airport Arrival: Commence your journey by flying into Halifax Stanfield International Airport. It is advisable to spend a brief period downtown Halifax before embarking on your Nova Scotia road trip toward Lunenburg.
Car Rental: Secure your rental vehicle promptly upon arrival at the airport; however, plan to arrange this well in advance of your trip.
Recommended Packing: In addition to your preferred casual attire, include comfortable walking shoes, a hat, and a windbreaker. For fine dining evenings, incorporate smart casual attire. In summer, shorts and dresses provide comfort, while light layers are advisable for spring and fall.
If arriving by air, initiate your Nova Scotia road trip in Halifax. Should you take the CAT Ferry from Maine to Yarmouth, Lunenburg will be your starting point. For those driving from New Brunswick, begin at Joggins, proceeding to Louisbourg, and concluding your tour in Lunenburg and Grand-Pré.
Stop 1: Halifax
Atmosphere: A bustling and walkable waterfront located in an historic port city, Halifax is the capital of Nova Scotia.
Activities: Wander along the boardwalk on the Halifax waterfront, and visit the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21, which illustrates how Halifax served as a significant port of entry for immigrants, akin to Ellis Island. Following this, delve into the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, where artifacts related to the Titanic disaster provide insight into Halifax’s maritime history. Ascend from the waterfront to visit Citadel Hill, past the iconic town clock. Participate in one of the daytime walking tours, or even better, join a nighttime ghost tour that vividly recounts the city’s past. Also, make sure to visit the charming Victorian-style Halifax Public Gardens, an oasis where the city’s hustle and bustle seems to vanish.
Dining: Enjoy a cappuccino and pastries or classic dishes like baked Camembert and French onion soup at the waterfront French bistro Café Lunette. For seafood enthusiasts, Shuck Seafood + Raw Bar provides a delightful oyster and drink happy hour from 4–6pm. The Sea Smoke Restaurant & Bar offers an elevated culinary experience with Asian fusion dishes such as the Nova Scotia sunset sushi roll featuring lobster, scallop, and avocado, enhanced with flavorful sauces.
Accommodations: Lively accommodation options abound, ranging from high-end rooms at the waterfront Muir, priced between $450–600 (US$325–434) featuring handmade furnishings and original art, to Dalhousie University which offers dormitory rooms starting at $56 (US$41). Midrange options like the Courtyard Halifax Downtown provide comfortable lodging for $230–350 (US$166–253) per night.
Next Journey: The following morning, embark on the scenic drive to Lunenburg. While Hwy 103 will take you there in approximately an hour, Nova Scotia’s stunning, jagged coastline invites a leisurely route. Venture to Peggy’s Cove before returning to Tantallon. Continue along Rte 3, known as the Lighthouse Route, through Chester and Mahone Bay toward Lunenburg. For a more scenic drive, consider detouring at Hubbards to explore the Aspotogan Peninsula.
Stop 2: Lunenburg
Atmosphere: A unique yet tranquil fishing port with an artistic essence.
Activities: The grid layout of Lunenburg is characterized by steep streets embellished with colorful 19th-century wooden houses, shops, restaurants, and inns, which earned it UNESCO status as the epitome of a British colonial town in North America. Thus, the primary activity in Lunenburg is to stroll the streets, popping into local art galleries, pausing for a coffee, or shopping for craft spirits such as Heart Iron Whisky and Rum Boat Rum at Ironworks Distillery, located in a former blacksmith shop that once supported the region’s prosperous shipbuilding trade. At the docks, if timing permits, the Bluenose II, Canada’s iconic tall ship, may be in its home port. Furthermore, the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic showcases two additional historic ships and a former fish processing facility detailing Lunenburg’s fishing legacy. Conclude your day with a 90-minute Haunted Lunenburg nighttime tour illuminated by lanterns, provided by Lunenburg Walking Tours.
Dining: Seafood naturally prevails as the choice for many in Lunenburg. Don’t overlook the fresh fried haddock and chips at the South Shore Fish Shack. The Beach Pea Kitchen & Bar presents seafood with Mediterranean flair, such as calamari served with tzatziki. For a unique twist, visit the modest takeout spot Lamprai & Spice Café, where Suni Ferreira prepares genuine Sri Lankan, Indian, and Thai dishes, including banana leaf chicken.
Accommodations: Experiencing a stately captain’s house transformed into an inn is among the highlights of a visit to Lunenburg. The Rum Runner Inn, offering balcony views of the harbor, derives its name from the clandestine booze trade of the prohibition era. Another choice is the Lunenburg Inn, a distinguished Victorian B&B that recently underwent extensive renovations to celebrate its centennial. Campers will appreciate their placements above low cliffs at Ovens Natural Park, renowned for its sea caves sculpted by crashing waves.
Next Journey: Several routes connect Lunenburg to Grand-Pré. Although slightly longer at 113km (70 miles), Rte 12 is the most picturesque, passing through lush woodlands and the village of New Ross. Families traveling with children will especially enjoy the Ross Farm Museum, where they can interact with the animals, partake in a hayride, or admire the craftsmanship of a blacksmith shaping horseshoes.
Stop 3: Grand-Pré
Atmosphere: Pastoral tranquility adjacent to a sophisticated yet lively town nestled within wine country.
Activities: If you’re in search of a coffee break, stop by Just Us Coffee, where their commitment to fair trade has established it as Nova Scotia’s leading coffee roaster, complete with a small coffee museum. Proceed to the main attraction, the UNESCO-designated landscape of Grand-Pré National Historic Site. The center provides insightful interpretations, beautiful grounds, and a memorial church narrating the French Acadian story—how they diked the shorelines for agricultural purposes before being expelled in the mid-18th century by British forces. Once known primarily for apple farming, this area has since evolved into eastern Canada’s premier wine-producing region. Wineries attract enthusiasts for tours and tastings of acclaimed offerings such as the Brut from Benjamin Bridge, Lucie Kuhlmann red from Gaspereau, and rosé from L’Acadie Vineyards. Enjoy lunch on the airy patio at Luckett Vineyards, complemented by sweeping vineyard vistas.
Dining: Venture into Wolfville, a vibrant university town just 5km (3 miles) west, teeming with impressive dining establishments. The Church Brewery is a popular taproom, known for its craft beer and elevated pub fare, such as the porter bacon and cheddar burger—reservations are recommended. For homemade pasta, continue on to Port Williams, where the Noodle Guy prepares fresh ravioli, Japanese soba, and tagliatelle.
Accommodations: Conveniently located within walking distance of the interpretation center and grounds at Grand-Pré, the Evangeline offers updated motel rooms and suites throughout three houses. For a more luxurious option, consider the Inn at Grand Pré Winery, which provides the advantage of proximity to the interpretation center set within a winery atmosphere. The on-site Le Caveau restaurant serves exquisite cuisine crafted by renowned chef Jason Lynch, who consistently presents fine dishes alongside house-made products such as bacon jam and plum chutney.
Next Journey: Driving from Grand-Pré to Joggins encompasses 346km (215 miles) and takes about five hours, tracing the Bay of Fundy coastline and delivering stunning views of the world’s highest tides. Stick to the Noel shore and then the Parrsboro shore until Advocate, followed by a northward turn toward Joggins. Recently, much of the Parrsboro shore earned UNESCO recognition as the Cliffs of Fundy Geopark.
Stop 4: Joggins Fossil Cliffs
Atmosphere: A rural coastline shaped by the world’s highest tides.
Activities: Renowned as the “coal age Galapagos” due to its outstanding fossil record spanning 350 million years, the Joggins shoreline has drawn archaeologists for centuries, attaining UNESCO designation in 2008. Guides at the Joggins Fossil Centre provide informative tours where fossils are found among the eroding cliffs. Furthermore, the Fundy Geological Museum in Parrsboro replicates scenes of a lush environment that existed 100 million years prior to dinosaurs when Nova Scotia was a steaming swamp home to giant amphibians.
Dining: In Advocate Harbour, situated between Parrsboro and Joggins, Wild Caraway—awarded Nova Scotia’s Restaurant of the Year in 2023—crafts innovative dishes using wild foraged and garden-grown ingredients that shine on its constantly changing five-course menu.
Accommodations: The Wild Caraway offers three B&B rooms above the restaurant, alongside three on-site cottages. The historic Parrsboro Mansion Inn dates back to 1880. Campers can enjoy sites located within Five Islands Provincial Park, characterized by grassy or wooded sites overlooking the namesake islands, named after the Indigenous Mi’kmaq legend of Kluskap who tossed clumps of mud at a troublesome giant beaver.
Next Journey: The direct path via the Trans-Canada Highway from Parrsboro to Louisbourg spans five hours, covering 460km (286 miles) with limited scenic views. For a more rewarding experience, consider breaking the drive into two days by following the coastal Sunrise Trail, skirting around Cape George, and utilizing the Fleur-de-Lis Trail on Cape Breton Island. Though this route totals 761km (473 miles) and requires around ten hours of driving, it yields magnificent scenery.
Stop 5: Fortress of Louisbourg
Atmosphere: A journey back to the 18th century.
Activities: Situated on a fogbound point at the continent’s edge, the Fortress of Louisbourg features the largest historical reconstruction in North America and is a significant Canadian National Historic Site. The fortress, along with 80 reconstructed structures, merits recognition from UNESCO. Numerous costumed interpreters engage visitors in historical activities—guarding entrances, tending to animals, and preparing meals—immersing them in the daily life of a French colonial community.
Dining: Experience a hearty meal reminiscent of those ordered by sailors and soldiers at Hotel de la Marine or Grandchamp House. Alternatively, head into the contemporary town of Louisbourg, where the Spoondrift Café and Gift Shop serves up salads, burgers, and chowders.
Accommodations: Consider spending a night within the fortress at relatively upscale Latrigue House, the manageable guardhouse, or even the eerie prison. Should historical stays be less appealing, the nearby Cranberry Cove Inn offers a charming Victorian style experience with harbor views.
Guidelines for Electric Vehicle Drivers
Thanks to a network of recharging stations established by Nova Scotia Power and other organizations, you can undertake this road trip in an electric vehicle. However, some rural routes may need to be bypassed in favor of more frequently traveled roads. The grid still requires more stations, so exercise caution when crafting your itinerary.
This article was originally published on Nov 15, 2022, and updated on Oct 23, 2024.
