San Sebastián is regarded as one of the best places to eat in the world. After living in this gorgeous coastal city for the last 15 years, and indulging in its fresh seafood, quality conserves, and perfect pintxos (tapas), I can confidently affirm that this reputation is well-deserved.
What’s the proof? Exhibit A: San Sebastián alternates as the city with the highest number of Michelin stars per capita with Tokyo. Exhibit B? Pintxos. There is no more enjoyable dining experience than hopping from bar to bar, sipping wine while savoring delicious, affordable miniature dishes.
The culinary excellence in my adopted hometown transcends mere stars and snacks. The modern dining scene in San Sebastián is deeply rooted in the local Basque culture, which respects tradition, nature’s rhythms, and local agriculture. The group of chefs that elevated Basque cuisine in the 1970s (such as Arzak and Subijana) were instrumental in the rise of haute cuisine in Spain, influencing the nation’s reputation as a culinary powerhouse.
Breakfast
In Spain, breakfast is often simple, consisting of coffee with a piece of toast or a croissant, especially in the north. One of my top picks is the walnut croissant at Galparsoro. Another favorite is the traditional gateau basque, best found at Pariés, which features a delicious almond flour crust filled with cherries or cream.
Brunch is gaining popularity, with emerging options for those prioritizing breakfast. Notable is Xauen Café, known for its luxe urban ambiance and an enticing menu that includes specialty coffee, Turkish-style eggs, yogurt and granola bowls, and smoothies.
Coffee
Specialty coffee is gradually establishing its presence in San Sebastián. In the Centro neighborhood, Old Town Coffee is a standout, run by local coffee veterans. For a fantastic flat white, visit Simona Speciality Coffee Club in Gros, which offers a bright and welcoming atmosphere.
If you crave a robust roast or a true Spanish café con leche, head to Cafes Angiozar, a tiny establishment revered for its traditional Spanish torrefacto coffee, which encapsulates Spain’s rich coffee heritage.
Lunch
Adapting to Spanish dining culture is vital, primarily because lunch is the most substantial meal of the day. For those enticed by Michelin stars, San Sebastián boasts eight exceptional restaurants. A must-try is the tasting menu at Arzak, a three-Michelin-star restaurant. Alternatively, Rekondo offers a charming setting with an impressive wine cellar, perfect for savoring local cuisine paired with exceptional wines.
If you prefer a more laid-back atmosphere, return to Arenales, featuring a concise menu of small dishes complemented by outstanding natural wines.
Aperitivo
Aperitivo is a cherished tradition, and I recommend numerous venues for delectable pre-meal drinks. If weather permits, the terrace at Akelarre provides breathtaking sea views. In town, Txurrut serves gussied-up vermouth, perfect for enjoying while people-watching.
Dinner
After a hearty lunch, pintxos are the perfect dinner option, and visiting San Sebastián’s bars is essential. Begin at Casa Valles, known for their famous gilda pintxo. Next, try Txepetxa for exquisite vinegar-marinated anchovies. Conclude your night with mouthwatering Basque cheesecake at La Viña.
Bar
In Spain, after-dinner drinks often kick off with a gin and tonic, which is a unique experience featuring premium ingredients. My favorite spot for this indulgence is La Gintonería. If creative cocktails are what you seek, visit Arraun for drinks with unique twists.
For those who venture into the nightlife scene (2am onwards), Gu is a lively discoteca overlooking Playa de La Concha, where you can enjoy great music and a fun atmosphere.
