Exploring Genoa: A Comprehensive Travel Guide
Many people use Genoa as an entry point to explore the Italian Riviera, including the famed Portofino and Cinque Terre. However, skipping the charms of Genoa itself would be a regrettable mistake.
Home to one of the largest medieval town centers in the world, crisscrossed with caruggi (narrow lanes), the city invites you to wander and discover. Put your phone away and uncover hidden gems — whether it’s the bustling port or a serene plaza where you might get lucky enough to snag a table and soak in the local atmosphere.
As my guide Cristiana Mondo aptly describes, Genoa is a “northern city with a southern lifestyle.” The leisurely pace of life allows residents to enjoy long lunches, with dinner often starting as late as 10 PM. Take a deep breath, slow down, and join the Genoese in their casual meanderings.
When to Visit Genoa
With a typical northern climate, Genoa begins to warm up in May but seldom experiences the heatwaves common to southern Europe. Average temperatures in July and August can reach around 28°C (82°F).
The best time to visit is during one of the Rolli Days when the Palazzi dei Rolli open their doors to the public. These special weekends attract many visitors eager to glimpse inside the city’s historic palaces, which are usually privately owned.
Additionally, Genoa is a busy cruise port, with the season running from April to October. Sundays can be especially busy, but crowds typically thin after 4 PM.
How Long to Stay in Genoa
A minimum of two days is ideal for fully exploring Genoa’s historic center, allowing you to visit key museums, get lost in the caruggi, shop at local boutiques, and savor delicious meals at Ligurian restaurants.
If you have four days or more, consider a train visit to the suburb of Pegli, where the enchanting Villa Durazzo Pallavicini Park awaits. Alternatively, head to Nervi, a beautiful beachside area where you can relish the scenery away from tourist crowds.
Getting to and Around Genoa
Genoa boasts its own airport, conveniently located just 20 minutes from the city center by car, or 30 minutes via bus. The compact airport is easy to navigate, ensuring a swift arrival experience.
Regular train connections link Genoa to major Italian cities, such as Milan, located less than two hours away, as well as Nice and Marseille.
The old town is pedestrian-friendly, inviting exploration on foot. However, be prepared for some steep areas, so wear comfortable walking shoes. For other parts of the city, efficient bus links are available, and tickets can be conveniently purchased through the AMT Genova app. Don’t miss the chance to ride one of the free public elevators for fantastic views of the surroundings.
Top Things to Do in Genoa
Discover Art and Culture in the Palazzos
The historic palazzos in Genoa host a wealth of cultural treasures. As a UNESCO World Heritage site comprising 42 buildings, there’s something for every visitor. For instance, the famed red walls of Palazzo Rosso house an impressive art gallery featuring several Van Dyck portraits. Both Palazzo Ducale and Palazzo Bianco showcase significant pieces from European art history and regularly host cultural events.
Explore Historic Shops
Genoa’s caruggi are home to a plethora of unique independent shops, many with historical significance. The city maintains a register of botteghe storiche, venues that have existed for at least 70 years, offering an enticing glimpse into the past.
Fashion enthusiasts will appreciate Pescetto, a family-run business established in 1899, while food lovers should visit Romanengo, the oldest confectionary store in Italy, known for its exquisite colorful sweets.
Hiking and Scenic Views
Genoa boasts extensive fortifications that are the longest in Europe. Walking along these historic walls offers breathtaking views of both the pre-Alps and the Mediterranean Sea. Alternatively, take a leisurely stroll along a 2nd-century Roman aqueduct to enjoy a different perspective of the town.
Experience Porto Antico
The bustling Porto Antico serves as a lively hub once cruise ships dock in the evening. It’s filled with restaurants and scenic locations to enjoy an aperitivo. Visiting Eataly is worthwhile for its gourmet offerings, or simply grab a slice of focaccia to savor while watching the sunset over the water.
Gastronomic Delights in Genoa
Pesto is an essential part of local cuisine, available in nearly every restaurant and often regarded as the best you’ll ever taste. Delicious focaccia, another Genoese specialty, can be found at numerous takeaway kiosks. Don’t miss farinata, a crispy snack made from chickpea flour, perfect for a quick bite on the go.
Must-Try Restaurants in Genoa
Il Genovese: A cozy and traditional Ligurian restaurant, known for its passion for authentic flavors.
20 Tre Restaurant: Offers a mix of local specialties and creative dishes served with flair.
Trattoria Rosmarino: Famous for its hazelnut sauce pasta, a local favorite.
Cremeria Buonafede: An excellent spot for takeaway ice cream, including the delightful panera, a coffee-flavored semifreddo.
Where to Stay in Genoa
Staying in the old town can be a fun experience, but it’s wise to avoid dark alleyways if you’re unfamiliar with the area. Those looking for authentic charm should consider accommodations in former palazzos, such as Hotel Palazzo Grillo, which artfully combines modern decor with stunning original features from the 16th century.
Average Costs in Genoa
- Hostel dorm room: €38-44
- Basic room for two: €120-170
- Self-catering apartment: €90-170
- Bus ticket: €1.50
- Espresso: €1.20
- Slice of focaccia: €2
- Aperitivo cocktail: €7-10
- Dinner for two: €65-90
This article was first published on July 27, 2023, and was last updated on August 16, 2024.
