With its pyramids, ruins, jungles, volcanoes, and thriving Mayan culture, Guatemala represents the essence of Central America.
Exploring this fascinating corner of the Americas is a treat; yet getting from one destination to another may take longer than you think. In a country where the average income hovers around US$400 a month, owning a car is often out of reach for most Guatemalans. Consequently, the vast majority of locals rely on public transport to navigate the country, resulting in buses that are almost always packed. Fortunately, there is almost always a bus going where you need to go.
Travelers will be pleased to hear that Guatemala’s public transport system is extensive and economical, albeit not always particularly efficient. Buses will reliably get you to your destination, but be prepared for long travel days, bumpy roads, and some discomfort.
Short distances within this small country can be misleading; with poorly maintained, winding roads, slow-moving traffic, and frequent road closures, it will almost always take longer to reach your destination than anticipated. Fortunately, there are options available for explorers of all budgets, and in such a vivid country, the journey is a significant part of the experience.
Buses: The Cheap and Easy Way to Get Around in Guatemala
Currently, there are no passenger services on Guatemala’s limited rail network, making the bus the primary form of mass transportation. Buses in Guatemala come in two classes: comfortable first-class coaches and second-class “chicken buses” – revamped US school buses that traverse nearly the entire country.
First-class buses, or “express buses,” operate on busy routes between major destinations. They offer regular services from Guatemala City to Quetzaltenango, Huehuetenango, Flores (for Tikal), and Panajachel (for Lago de Atitlán). These buses connect major cities to various beach destinations and international border crossings with neighboring countries.
It’s important to note that not all bus lines are created equal. Some buses include onboard toilets, while others do not. Certain services feature a TV screen playing music videos or action movies dubbed into Spanish, while others provide a quiet experience to enjoy the scenery. First-class buses typically cost about double the price of their second-class counterparts; however, they are faster, safer, and more comfortable.
Known locally as camionetas, chicken buses are more frequent than first-class coaches and reach nearly every city, town, and village in the country. These retired US school buses are universally revitalized and painted in bright primary colors, adorned with an array of chrome trimmings. While you may not see many chickens on the buses these days, they transport just about everything else.
Buses stop frequently to pick up and drop off passengers. Local shopkeepers often use chicken buses to transport goods, which can reduce aisle space for passengers. Although they can be slow, these buses provide one of the best means to connect with locals.
Familiarizing yourself with basic Spanish is extremely helpful when traveling by chicken bus. While stops are not clearly marked, letting the driver know your destination ensures they will alert you when you arrive. Additionally, knowing basic Spanish allows you to ask fellow passengers about the correct fare, helping you avoid overpaying.
Chicken buses are generally more suitable for shorter trips rather than long, all-day journeys. As they were designed for American school children, these buses can feel cramped and uncomfortable, especially for taller travelers. Large backpacks must go on the roof; therefore, it’s advisable to stick with a smaller day pack to protect your belongings from both the elements and prying hands.
Unfortunately, opportunistic theft is common on these buses, so it’s essential to remain vigilant and keep an eye on your valuables. For example, if someone initiates a conversation and inches closer, cover your bag’s zipper to deter potential theft. While most interactions are benign, robbers can sometimes create distractions to steal belongings.
Microbuses Offer More Comfort for a Higher Fare
In various parts of Guatemala, minibuses, known locally as microbuses, travel along paved roads between major towns or operate on local routes in larger cities. While microbuses are more expensive than chicken buses, they tend to offer enhanced comfort.
Travelers can expect more legroom and working shock absorbers, which reduce the bumpy ride often associated with chicken buses. Additionally, some microbuses feature air-conditioning, which is a welcome relief in the tropical climate, particularly for lowland routes. Like chicken buses, larger pieces of luggage typically go on the roof, but there is generally a lesser risk of theft on these services.
Tourist Shuttles: Quick Transfers but Less Atmosphere
Tourist shuttles, which are small vans or minibuses, operate between all major tourist destinations in Guatemala. These shuttles also provide services across borders to locations like San Cristóbal de las Casas in Mexico and Playa El Tunco in El Salvador.
Shuttles typically cost about double what chicken buses charge; however, they offer greater comfort and convenience. Many shuttles will drop you off directly at your hotel or hostel. Additionally, passengers have the opportunity to share travel experiences and tips with fellow travelers.
You can arrange shuttle seats through local travel agencies, although departures may occur from different locations. For instance, if you arrange a shuttle from San Pedro La Laguna to San Cristóbal de las Casas, you may need to take an early boat to Panajachel to catch your shuttle. Always confirm whether the travel agency ticket price includes your boat fare.
Driving in Guatemala: Freedom to Explore
If you prefer the freedom of traveling on your own schedule, driving in Guatemala is an option. An international driver’s license is required only if you’re from a country with a non-Roman alphabet; other travelers can use a valid driver’s license from their home country for the first 30 days.
Renting a car is a straightforward process at airports, major cities, and other tourist hubs, provided you are at least 25 years old. Always review the rental insurance conditions as coverage for loss or theft may not be included. Gasoline prices in Guatemala are higher than in the United States, yet lower than in Canada, Australia, and Europe.
You can also bring your own vehicle into Guatemala, though the process can be bureaucratically intensive. Alternatively, consider renting a private car with a driver. This option is easy to arrange through travel agencies in most tourist destinations and can significantly reduce the stress of driving on unfamiliar roads.
However, be aware that driving in Guatemala requires nerves of steel; reckless driving behavior is common. While the main roads tend to be in good condition, expect visibility to decline sharply at night or during rainy and foggy weather. Smaller towns usually feature narrow streets with limited parking. Therefore, driving during the night is not advisable due to low visibility and risks posed by intoxicated drivers or potential armed robberies.
Local Taxis and Rideshare Services
Metered taxis are prevalent in Guatemala City, Antigua, and Quetzaltenango; however, they are rarely found in smaller towns or around Lago de Atitlán. Regardless of the presence of a meter, you may need to negotiate the fare before starting your journey.
Uber operates within Guatemala City and Antigua, providing a safe option for local exploration. The service offers fixed pricing, which is particularly beneficial for those who may not speak Spanish, as everything is straightforwardly managed through the app.
Tuk-Tuks: The Cheap Focused Transportation
Commonly known as tuk-tuks, moto-taxis are widely available in almost every town in Guatemala, although they are much less common in urban areas like Guatemala City and Quetzaltenango. In smaller towns, these vehicles are probably the most efficient public transport option due to their affordability and speed.
In some regions, tuk-tuks also travel to nearby towns and villages. Alternatively, they may reach outlying areas where you will need to switch to another tuk-tuk for onward travel. Always be sure to recognize officially licensed tuk-tuks in each town you visit since regulations can vary.
To hail a tuk-tuk, simply extend your hand and create an up-and-down waving motion. In practice, standing by the roadside often leads to tuk-tuks stopping to inquire if you need a ride.
Pickup Trucks: Rustic Rural Transportation
While tuk-tuks have largely replaced pickup trucks, or picops as they are locally called, as the preferred mode of inexpensive transportation, these vehicles still function as local buses in less touristy and more rural areas, often better equipped to navigate rough dirt roads.
Due to their open design, they are best suited for sunny days, and you’ll need to hang on tightly. Communicate your desired drop-off location to the driver or simply knock on the side of the truck when you are ready to get out.
Bicycles and Motorcycles: The Adventurous Travelers
Cycling around Guatemala is not for the faint of heart; however, it is possible. While the scenery is breathtaking, travelers must be prepared for sweltering temperatures in low-lying areas or challenging ascents in the highlands. Additionally, designated bike paths are virtually non-existent. Nonetheless, if you feel adventurous, you can rent bicycles (including mountain bikes) in most tourist centers.
Motorcycles are becoming increasingly popular in the country; in many towns, it is common to see families riding without helmets. For longer distances between towns, wearing a helmet is essential. For both cycling and motorcycling, it’s advisable to avoid busy main roads, where speeding trucks and buses pose a significant danger. Motorcycles are available for rent in Antigua and around Lago de Atitlán.
Air Travel: A Convenient Alternative
Due to Guatemala’s compact size, domestic air travel isn’t common; however, it can be particularly beneficial in avoiding lengthy bus rides to regions such as Flores and Tikal in the north, or for traveling to Belize from Flores.
TAG Airlines offers scheduled flights between Guatemala City and Flores or Puerto Barrios, while Tropic Air operates routes from Flores to Belize City. For those with a decent budget, chartering flights to various destinations across Guatemala is permissible through operators like ARM Aviación at La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City.
Boats as a Preferred Mode of Access
Certain regions in Guatemala are accessible primarily by boat, including Livingston on the Caribbean coast and Jaibalito on Lago de Atitlán. Wherever boats operate, they are often the most efficient means of transportation, as they’re quicker and more direct than road travel. For example, the trip from Panajachel to San Pedro La Laguna takes roughly half an hour by lancha (public motorboat) as opposed to two hours by road.
Although few locals adhere to safety precautions, using life jackets while on boats is advisable, as lanchas do capsize from time to time, especially during windy conditions. Sitting at the front provides exhilarating breezes, but be prepared to get splashed with lake or river water. For a smoother ride, consider seats near the back.
If your travel itinerary includes a boat ride, allow ample time for the journey since lanchas do not operate on fixed schedules and only depart when full—a wait that might take only a few minutes early in the day or considerably longer later on.
Accessibility Challenges in Guatemala
Traveling in Guatemala can be challenging for those with mobility issues. Although a law exists which guarantees rights for disabled individuals and prohibits discrimination, enforcement is lax, resulting in limited accessibility options.
Wheelchair-accessible accommodations are rare, and transport solutions are virtually non-existent. Nonetheless, most Guatemalans are happy to assist in any way they can. Therefore, opting for personal transportation paired with a driver is usually the simplest approach.
