If you’re planning a Greek island holiday and wish to avoid the crowds, consider Serifos. Located in the Cyclades, just northwest of Paros and Sifnos, Serifos is one of the least-visited Greek islands, showcasing a raw, rugged beauty with rippled brown mountains plunging into broad ultramarine bays.
Relatively deserted outside of the main port, Livadi, and the quaint hilltop capital, Hora, the island feels wonderfully wild. Here, wide-open expanses are punctuated by remnants of past mining enterprises, perfect little beaches, and the whoosh of the wind, which can be fierce at times.
However, change is also in the air, as flash holiday homes are appearing along the hillsides near the bays. Old Hora is starting to feature a trendy bar or two, and in the hills above Platys Gialos beach, Chrysoloras Winery offers vineyard tastings and produces some excellent organic whites.
Before word of Serifos’ delights reaches the masses, it’s time to explore this still-timeless island. This article will provide insights and recommendations to help you make the most of your visit to this incredible and unassuming destination.
When Should You Travel to Serifos?
Summer is the ideal season to visit, as the weather is warm and sunny, allowing you to fully enjoy Serifos’ captivating beaches. Additionally, arranging day trips to other islands is relatively easy during summer when ferry services are regular. Hotels are operational, and family-run tavernas welcome visitors for leisurely lunches and dinners. Summer also marks festival season, particularly in August, featuring live music concerts and folklore celebrations.
Greek Orthodox Easter, usually in April, is another wonderful time to experience Serifos, as both large and small festivities take place across the island. Late spring and early autumn offer pleasant weather, great accommodation deals, and cooler temperatures, making them perfect for hiking activities. However, it’s worth noting that the island primarily shuts down between October and May, and many ferry services are paused.
How Much Time Should You Spend on Serifos?
Although Serifos is a small island, you’ll want to allocate at least three to four days to truly appreciate its offerings. This timeframe gives you ample opportunity to enjoy lazy beach days and explore the picturesque hinterland. Life on the island moves at a laid-back pace, especially in July and August when temperatures rise, so embrace the slow lifestyle and take your time.
Is It Easy to Get to and Around Serifos?
While there are no airports on Serifos, the island is easily accessible from the port of Piraeus in Athens. Be sure to book your ferry tickets in advance, as they tend to sell out quickly during the summer months. Serifos has good summer connections along the Piraeus to the Western Cyclades ferry route.
High-season services include:
- Piraeus (€37.50–63.70, 2 to 4 hrs 30 mins, daily)
- Kythnos (€7.50–15, 1 hr 15 mins, daily)
- Sifnos (€7–24.70, 20 mins to 2 hrs 40 mins, daily)
- Milos (€12–29.70, 1 to 2 hrs, daily)
- Syros (€7.50, 2 hrs 15 mins, daily)
The island’s main road is an easy-to-navigate loop, making touring straightforward. A clockwise direction is recommended, as it leads you north later in the day for some breathtaking sunset views while keeping the distance back to Livadi short.
Buses connect Livadi and Hora, with timetables posted at the bus stop by the yacht quay. In high season, a circular bus route services popular spots like Panagia, Galani, Kendarhos, and Agios Ioannis Beach. Additionally, cyclists will enjoy the not-too-busy roads, with bike rentals available in Livadi, as well as cars, scooters, and quads from various local providers.
A scenic 2.5km (1.5-mile) vehicle-free walking path (route 1A) winds down from Hora to Livadi, allowing for a pleasant stroll.
Top Things to Do on Serifos
Linger in Laid-back Livadi
Serifos’ main port and largest town, Livadi, is popular with touring yachties. Despite the regular ferries pulling up to the long stone jetty, it maintains the charm of a relaxed beach town. The waterfront strip features some of the island’s best tavernas and bars, along with low-key accommodations overlooking the long, sandy beach. Livadakia beach is an easy stroll from the main town.
Get Lost in the Lanes of Quaint Hora
This whitewashed village cascades down the summit of a rocky mountain above Livadi, making it one of the most dramatically striking villages in the Cyclades. From the main square, lanes extend into the maze of Hora. As you wander through narrow alleys and steps, you’ll come across a few shops and the ancient acropolis with scant remnants of the 15th-century Venetian kastro (castle) and the Church of Agios Konstantinos, all offering spectacular views over the island and distant Sifnos.
Enjoy Serifos’ Best Beaches
The island’s most stunning beach, Agios Sostis, is a 40-minute walk northeast of Livadi. Nestled on a sandy spit with a blue-vaulted church and craggy rock formations, it offers exquisite views of the surrounding waters. It’s best accessed on foot due to a rough road, which only accommodates a handful of cars.
Additionally, there’s the beautiful Psili Ammos, known for swimming and a couple of tavernas, and Platys Gialos, with its gravelly sand and seasonal taverna. Sykamia is one of the island’s finest beaches, approached via a steep, scenic road.
On the southwest coast, the tiny Megalo Livadi is interesting for its historical neoclassical buildings but features a muddier, rockier beach. Nearby is the cave said to be the Cyclops’ dwelling.
Follow Serifos’s Hiking Trails
Exploring Serifos is best achieved through its network of hiking trails, which vary in length and difficulty. Some trails are signposted, while others are not, so bring food and water for longer hikes. The 5km (3-mile) loop trail linking Livadi and Hora makes for a great introduction to the island.
The path from Hora leads north for about 4.5km (2.8 miles) to the tiny village of Kendarhos and eventually to the monastery of Moni Taxiarhon. The walk from Hora to the monastery takes around two hours. Another excellent hike is the steep trail from Panagia down to remote Sykamia Beach.
Our Favorite Thing to Do on Serifos
The Monastery of the Taxiarches, constructed in 1572 and fortified against pirates, is worth exploring for its impressive 18th-century frescoes and quaint cemetery, located in the village of Gilani in the northern part of the island.
Just north of the Megalo Livadi beach turnoff, the lonely Aspros Pyrghos (White Tower) archaeological site is easily accessible. Greek mythology attributes this site to the Cyclops, potentially dating back to the Hellenistic period.
Serifos Scuba Divers operates scuba excursions to numerous sites around the island, including wrecks. In July and August, they organize day-long snorkeling trips and offer boat rentals and adventurous fly-board sessions.
How Much Money Do You Need for Serifos?
Serifos isn’t as expensive as more popular Cycladic islands like Mykonos and Santorini, but prices have been rising sharply in recent years, much like the rest of the world.
- Hostel dorm: from €50 in high season
- Basic room for two: €110
- Athens to Serifos ferry ticket: €37.50 for 4 hrs 30 min ferry; €63.70 for 2 hr 30 min speedboat
- Dinner for two: €30–50
- Casual lunch: €7
- Coffee: €0.60–2
- Bus ride from Livadi to Hora/from Livadi to southern beaches/from Livadi to northern beaches: €2/3–4/2
- Local beer: €2
