Journey on the Train des Merveilles: Explore Tende from Nice

Despite the Côte d’Azur’s postcard image of beaches and palm trees, much of the Alpes-Maritimes – the French département (province) in the Côte d’Azur’s embrace – is covered by alpine terrain.

From Nice, it’s easy to explore the region’s little-known alpine hinterland on windy rural roads with twisty hairpin bends and impatient local drivers. However, for a more relaxing mode of travel, consider taking a gentle two-hour train journey that crosses pine-scented plains and deep gorges, connecting the city with Tende, a small border village deep in the mountains that feels as Italian as French.

The Train des Merveilles, named for the Vallée des Merveilles (The Valley of Wonders) – a striking and serene landscape of over 40,000 mysterious Bronze Age stone carvings – is an engineering feat of tunnels, viaducts, and spiral loops. Accessible via day-long hiking routes near St-Dalmas-de-Tende, this train provides a vital connection for mountain villages to the coast.

In the past, shepherds used this railway line to transport their sheep herds from summer pastures to winter homes. More recently, it played a crucial role in providing supplies and first responders when Storm Alex impacted the region in 2020.

Departing from Nice on the Train des Merveilles

There are at least two Train des Merveilles departures from Nice daily, with additional services during the summer months. Between June and September, and on weekends in April and October, a daily service departs at 9:15 AM with an expert guide onboard. This journey includes live commentary in both French and English, providing valuable insights into the railway line and the region at no extra cost. This departure time allows an early arrival into Tende, perfect for lunch.

During my visit, I found the instructions on the train’s official website a bit vague, so I arrived 20 minutes early. Although I initially couldn’t find anyone on the platform, the train itself is relatively small, and announcements from the loudspeaker guided me to my carriage where I found a free seat.

From the outside, the Train des Merveilles resembles a typical regional commuter train in Provence, but with fewer carriages and various seating options, including lounge areas designed to provide sweeping views. The stunning landscapes of Nice quickly vanish as the train departs, transitioning to seasonal colors of blooming yellow broom and vibrant red poppies. Although it made stops at multiple small stations, most passengers remained onboard.

What to Expect on the Train des Merveilles Journey

As the journey progresses, passengers naturally move around to admire the increasingly alpine scenery from different angles. Our guide, Marie-Stéphanie, shared fascinating insights about the railway’s history, originally inaugurated in 1928 to transport goods between Nice and Torino, Italy. Today, Tende is the line’s endpoint, with connections available to Italy via Trenitalia trains.

The train navigates deep gorges and towering viaducts. About half an hour from Nice, we were treated to our first sight of cascading water pouring from a 40-meter high viaduct, creating a picturesque scene amid the rugged landscape.

Tunnels and viaducts punctuate the route, offering stunning views of pines, larch trees, and occasional waterfalls. The highlight of the journey was a nearly 6-kilometer-long tunnel, the second longest in France, as we approached Sospel, a charming Italianate town.

As we entered the Roya Valley, the elevation increased from 300m to 800m, marked by impressive spirals in the railway, creating an exhilarating experience for passengers.

A brief 15-minute stop in Breil-sur-Roya allowed passengers to stretch and grab refreshments, although some disembarked to explore the nearby Ecomusée du Train des Merveilles, a comprehensive transport museum at the station.

Arriving in Tende

The stops from Breil-sur-Roya to Tende are of particular interest to travelers. Fontan-Soarge offers a bus connection to the perched village of Saorge with its serene monastery. St-Dalmas-de-Tende serves as the gateway to the hiking trails of the Vallée des Merveilles, while La Brigue is a tiny village boasting the remarkable Sanctuaire Notre Dames des Fontaines, a 15th-century church renowned for its intricate frescoes.

Tende welcomes visitors with its colorful townhouses cascading down the hillside, all adorned with the village’s characteristic grey slate roofs. As the train doors opened, passengers eagerly disembarked onto the platform.

Most visitors head towards the pedestrianized old town, known for its covered alleys or carigiu, along with many seeking outdoor adventures.

Importantly, a tourist information office is conveniently located across from the station, alongside the Musée des Merveilles, which showcases the prehistoric carvings of the Vallée des Merveilles through engaging visual displays. Ensure you take time to visit before heading back.

The return train to Nice departs at 14:44, providing adequate time to explore the ornate Collégiale Notre-Dame de l’Assomption collegiate church and enjoy a leisurely mountain lunch.

How to Make It Happen

A same-day return ticket from Nice to Tende on the Train des Merveilles costs €31.60. While I booked my ticket in advance, it’s worth noting that tickets can also be purchased on the day of travel at the station.

Unlike France’s high-speed trains, this route does not offer onboard food or drink service. However, you are welcome to bring your own snacks or purchase refreshments from kiosks at the train station. Additionally, there are opportunities to buy snacks during the stop at Breil-sur-Roya.

While onboard wifi is unavailable, you may connect to free wifi at the Nice station. The train accommodates luggage, including bikes, making it convenient for all types of travelers.

If you plan to dine out for lunch in Tende, it’s advisable to make reservations soon after arrival, as many restaurants follow strict operating hours.

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