Experience the Caledonian Sleeper Train with GoTravelDaily

Writer Monisha Rajesh reports on her overnight journey on the Caledonian Sleeper train from London to Edinburgh.

Blinds down and humming quietly, the Caledonian Sleeper already snaked along the length of the platform as I braced against the wind in search of my carriage.

It was just after 11 pm, and the thrill of adventure was setting in. A wave of passengers pushed toward the exit of London, while I wheeled my bag against the tide, delighted that I was about to board one of the UK’s only two overnight train services. Climbing up the steps into a carriage warm as toast, I produced my ticket and was handed the key card to my room.

The Many Ways to Experience the Caledonian Sleeper

The Caledonian Sleeper offers a range of options to suit different budgets and requirements, with accessible wheelchair-friendly rooms available. Here’s a breakdown of the choices:

• Caledonian Double: Features an en-suite shower, toilet room, and breakfast included.
• Club Room: Offers the same benefits with a twin bunk.
• Classic Room: The most popular option, without a toilet or shower room – breakfast available as an extra.
• Seated Coach: Resembles a communal area with relaxed seating, at a lower price point.

The pricing for a seat in the Seated Coach starts around £50, comparable to a flight, but without the hassles associated with airports and accommodations.

Three years earlier, I’d taken the same service from Glasgow to London, expecting to travel on the much-hyped new fleet after Serco took over the franchise. However, due to delays, I ended up in the familiar, well-worn carriages. This time, I decided to treat myself.

To celebrate her 70th birthday, I had arranged a surprise trip for my mother on the Royal Scotsman. I planned to meet her in Edinburgh after traveling the 337 miles on the Lowlander service from London. This service runs six nights a week (excluding Saturdays), connecting London with Edinburgh and Glasgow. The Highlander route extends journeys to Aberdeen, Inverness, and Fort William.

While searching for tickets, I noticed that the pricing remained consistent regardless of whether I booked four days or four months in advance. I opted for the Caledonian Double, investing £345 for a one-way journey, and eagerly stepped into my cozy room filled with thoughtful amenities.

The Scene in the Dining Car

The dining car buzzed with activity, resembling a private members’ club, as regular passengers gathered for a wee dram before bed. Night owls caught up with staff, reviewing notes for morning meetings and working on laptops, juxtaposed with travelers eager to enjoy their first Scottish evening. They exchanged smiles over plates of haggis, neeps, and tatties, forming a sense of camaraderie among the passengers.

For just over a tenner, I enjoyed my own delectable plate of haggis, doused in whisky gravy. As the train glided away from the platform, a young couple at the table beside me shared their excitement for their final holiday before parenthood.

As the train veered out of London, I stood at the window watching the vibrant city lights fade into the night, the moon illuminating our path through the darkness. Despite bringing silicone earplugs and an eye mask, I found myself waking intermittently as the train navigated the route. Just after 5 am, the train slowed into a station; I eagerly looked out the window to witness dawn breaking in peach hues.

A New Day Dawns; Edinburgh Nears

As we approached Carlisle, I felt exhausted but exhilarated. With two hours until breakfast, I stepped into the corridor in my pajamas, observing the morning mist resembling steam lifting from the fields. This unique journey felt more private and contained, setting it apart from other night trains.

Over a delightful Highland breakfast of bacon, crisp black pudding, and tattie scones, I perched on my window seat, noticing the West Lothian woodland flit by under a bright blue sky. The experience of traveling by train provided a unique opportunity to appreciate Scotland’s countryside and communities—an attractive aspect compared to air travel.

At precisely 7:30 am, the clamor of engines roared through open windows, coinciding with passengers stepping out and returning to their daily lives. My day, however, was just beginning as I waited beneath the clock for a fellow travel writer to arrive. Our long-awaited meeting unfolded as she boarded the electric Lumo train back to London, the crossing of our adventures adding a touch of romance to the morning.

Additional Insights and Considerations

Ticket Purchasing: Advance tickets can be secured for the Caledonian Sleeper journey. One-way fares from London to Edinburgh start as low as £50 for Seated Coach, while the Caledonian Double costs £354 for a private room with an en-suite. Other options include the Club Room, starting at £305, and the Classic Room at £205.

Inflight Dining: Passengers traveling in sleeper cabins can enjoy the lounge car along with room service. Those in the Seated Coach can have food delivered from the trolley buffet service, featuring a selection of traditional Scottish dishes.