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Nicola recently completed the new edition of GoTravelDaily’s Pocket Bordeaux guidebook, expected to be released in May 2024. Here she shares her insights on day trips beyond the city.
The city of Bordeaux excels in urban living and cultural experiences, making it unlikely for visitors to wish to depart. However, its strategic location – beside the coffee-brown Garonne River, close to the Gironde Estuary and Atlantic Coast – certainly beckons the inquisitive traveler.
After traversing the city and indulging in exquisite wine while discovering streets adorned with elegant mansions, contemplate a nearby outing. Day trips facilitate exciting encounters with distinctive natural environments, serene beaches, and leisurely maritime experiences – alongside opportunities to meet exceptional artisans associated with some of France’s finest wines.
In accordance with metropolitan Bordeaux’s commitment to ecological sustainability, the most rewarding excursions can be undertaken via low-carbon trains and bicycles. Nevertheless, the challenge lies in allocating sufficient time to experience it all.
Below are some of the preferred day trips from Bordeaux.
1. Savor powerful reds in St-Émilion
Travel time: 35 minutes by train
St-Émilion, venerable and esteemed among Bordeaux wines, has a legacy that predated many. The clarets produced here (a term used by the English to describe Bordeaux red wine since the Middle Ages) even celebrated the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine to the future King Henry Plantagenet in 1152, becoming a favorite at the court of King Edward I in the 14th century. Explore one of the globe’s most distinguished reds in the medieval village of St-Émilion, where AOC St-Émilion wines are still cultivated with dedication, passion, and invaluable ancestral knowledge.
This quaint village is compact and best explored on foot; allocate a full day to visit the wine information center Maison du Vin de St-Émilion and its picturesque church-lined streets. Wine enthusiasts seeking an exquisite dinner or a guided tour coupled with tastings at one of the surrounding châteaux should consider staying overnight. A delightful choice is Château Troplong Mondot, boasting a contemporary eco-winery and a Michelin-starred vineyard restaurant.
How to reach St-Émilion from Bordeaux: Expect a 35-minute journey aboard a regional TER train from Bordeaux’s Gare St-Jean to the charming St-Émilion station, followed by a scenic one-mile (1.7km) walk through vineyards into the village.
2. Hit the beach and a deserted “bird island” in Arcachon
Travel time: 50 minutes by train
Follow the footsteps of 19th-century Bordeaux aristocrats to this charming seaside town. Arcachon offers an opulent stretch of velvety golden sand, unrivaled in length and width. The town’s four distinct quarters, whimsically named after seasons, are a joy to explore architecturally. During midday, indulge in fresh seafood while enjoying a view of the azure waters at either the gastronomic Chez Pierre or the more economical Café de la Plage (both operated by the same team).
When the beachgoers create too much commotion, transition into tranquility with a guided kayaking excursion to Île aux Oiseaux. This migratory bird stopover nearly vanishes at high tide. Guided paddling trips coordinated by Arcachon Kayak set forth from the leisure port, which is a 15-minute stroll east along the beach from the main waterfront.
How to arrive at Arcachon from Bordeaux: Regional trains take 50 minutes traveling southwest from Gare St-Jean to the coastal town of Arcachon. From Arcachon’s railway station, a five-minute stroll along Ave du Général de Gaulle leads to the seashore.
3. Sand-hike up Dune du Pilat
Travel time: 90 minutes by train, bicycle, or bus
Regardless of whether it is frosty in winter or scorching in summer, Europe’s largest dune is ideally explored barefoot. Between Easter and October, a staircase containing around 150 steps is constructed on the dune’s eastern slope to facilitate summiting; outside of this period, expect a demanding ascent across shifting sands. However you choose to climb, the panoramic vistas at the summit are unparalleled.
Dune du Pilat stands as the quintessential landmark along this windswept stretch of the Atlantic coast. Accessing this location via bicycle or public transportation can diminish the carbon footprint, and participating in a guided nature walk, hosted by Espace Accueil at the dune entrance, allows visitors to learn about the delicate and diverse ecosystem of this precarious sand mountain.
How to reach Dune du Pilat from Bordeaux: Begin with a 50-minute train journey to Arcachon from Bordeaux, then take the local bus line 3 from the station front – alternatively, enjoy a five-minute walk to the seaboard and rent a bicycle for a 35-minute ride to the dune, located 6.2 miles (10km) south. The ride, primarily along a dedicated cycling trail, may prove as thrilling as the destination itself.
4. Hobnob with oyster farmers on wild and windy Cap Ferret
Travel time: 90 minutes by train and boat
Upon arrival at the dock in Cap Ferret, the urban landscape of Bordeaux feels worlds apart. This untouched peninsula boasts stunning natural beauty, featuring sandy trails weaving through dunes and pine forests, where oyster farmers cultivate mollusks with distinctive flavors of citrus, vanilla, and subtle roasted hazelnut notes.
Upon disembarking at the quaint, café-framed port, consider renting a bicycle from Western Flyer and journey to the 53m (174ft) tall Phare du Cap Ferret for stunning views of the cape and, at low tide, the adjacent oyster beds. In the rustic fishing village of Village Ostréicole du Cap Ferret, characterized by a network of pathways made from discarded oysters and stilted shanties, enjoy lunch featuring fresh oysters in a farmer’s backyard (a beloved spot is La Kabane). A short bike ride, approximately 3.7 miles (6km) north along a pine-scented cycle path, leads to Village Ostréicole de l’Herbe, where you can connect with oyster farmer Guillaume (tel +33 6 17 08 11 20) for a boat tour of his operation, followed by a feast of oysters at the trendy bar Hôtel de la Plage.
The untamed allure of Cap Ferret may compel you to linger longer. Consider an overnight at the 1950s California-style surf lodge Hôtel des Dunes to rejuvenate.
How to reach Cap Ferret from Bordeaux: Take the same 50-minute regional train from Bordeaux’s Gare St-Jean to Arcachon, followed by a brief ten-minute walk to the jetty along Arcachon’s boardwalk, where UBA shuttle boats service the crossing to Cap Ferret in approximately 30 minutes.
5. Château-hop in Médoc wine country
Travel time: 90 minutes by car
No wine region in France is truly complete without the presence of châteaux – and Médoc is exceptional in this regard. Eight appellations emerge from what is recognized as some of the finest vineyard territory globally, supported by iconic estates boasting magnificent châteaux such as Mouton Rothschild, Latour, and Lafite Rothschild. Opportunities to taste or explore behind-the-scenes at these eminent locations are typically reserved for distinguished guests – yet passing by their majestic silhouettes en route to welcoming estates like Château Lynch-Bages in Bages or Château La Haye in St-Estèphe contribute to the enchantment of a Médoc excursion.
Advance planning is advised for reserving tours and tastings, as well as securing a lunch reservation at the charming wine bistro Café Lavinal in Bages and an evening meal at the remarkable chef-owned Nomade in Labarde. At Pauillac’s Maison du Tourisme et du Vin, located along the waterfront, visitors can obtain walking itineraries (both guided and self-directed) and meet local vintners.
How to navigate to Médoc from Bordeaux: Given the rural character of this vineyard-studded locale, driving is the most feasible method to traverse the winding country lanes and secluded châteaux. A limited number of regional trains depart from Bordeaux’s Gare St-Jean to Pauillac (approximately 75 minutes); subsequently, bicycles can be acquired at L’Atelier Vélo by Fun Bike in Bages, located just one mile (1.6km) south.
6. Make a date with market day in Périgueux
Travel time: 90 minutes by train
Once satisfied with Bordeaux’s culinary offerings, avid food enthusiasts can venture east for a day trip to the Dordogne. Renowned for its “black diamond” truffles, luxurious foie gras, and duck prepared in myriad exquisite styles, this region ranks as one of the premier culinary destinations in France. Visit the quaint capital, Périgueux, in the morning, when market stalls brim with vibrant fresh seasonal produce, creating a striking kaleidoscope of colors and flavors amid the historic streets around the Cathédrale St-Front. After a fruitful shopping expedition, lunch on magret de canard (slow-cooked duck confit) infused with orange at Hercule Poireau, or perhaps enjoy pan-fried duck livers at the nearby L’Épicurien.
How to reach Périgueux from Bordeaux: Regional trains connect Bordeaux’s Gare St-Jean with Périgueux within 90 minutes.
