Summary
A road trip through the remote and exquisitely picturesque Himalayan valleys of Bhutan stands as one of the most thrilling travel experiences.
Whether focusing on the more frequented western valleys for a swift tour or embarking on a multi-day excursion over rugged passes into the lesser-known eastern regions, the scenery here is pristine, complemented by a traditional culture that remains remarkably preserved.
Paro airport in the western part of the country serves as the primary entry point for most international visitors, and consequently, it is the launch site for nearly all road trips. To explore the remote central and eastern regions, additional time is required, although domestic flights can facilitate access to these less-visited areas.
It is pertinent to understand that self-driving is not a viable option for the majority of visitors. While motorcycle tours can be organized, and Indian citizens can operate their vehicles in Bhutan upon payment of a daily fee, most foreign tourists are required to arrange for a vehicle and driver for their excursions.
This arrangement enables you to relax and appreciate the breathtaking scenery.
1. Paro to Thimphu
The ideal trip for a first-time visitor to Bhutan
Paro–Thimphu–Paro; 95km (60 miles); four days
Upon arrival at Bhutan’s international airport in Paro, dedicate the remainder of the day to exploring the Paro dzong (fortress-monastery) alongside the nearby National Museum; from here, you may rejuvenate after your flight with a brief hike to Zuri Dzong, which offers a splendid overview of the valley.
The subsequent day’s journey to Thimphu covers 47km (29 miles) on one of the country’s finest roads; however, it is advisable to take your time and stop along the way at the aromatic Tshenden incense workshop and the roadside Tamchog Lhakhang, renowned for its remarkable iron-link bridge constructed by the 15th-century Tibetan saint Tangtong Gyelpo. A favored stop for a home-cooked Bhutanese lunch is the historic Sisichhum Heritage Home.
Just before reaching Thimphu, pay tribute to the impressive 51m (167ft) tall Buddha Dordenma statue, which overlooks the valley’s entrance. If time permits, contemplate hiking the final hour through forested valley trails to arrive in Thimphu on foot. Once in town, dedicate the remainder of the day to exploring the country’s finest museums, craft workshops, and retailers, many of which feature Bhutan’s most innovative designers.
On the third day, embark on an afternoon drive back to Paro; the following morning, engage in a half-day hike to Bhutan’s most renowned site, the legendary Taktshang Goemba (Tiger’s Nest Monastery), which is dramatically perched on granite cliffs high above the upper valley. Conclude your brief introduction to Bhutan with a craft-beer tasting at the Namgyal Artisanal Brewery or indulge in a soothing soak in a traditional herb-infused hot-stone bath.
Prepare for four exceptional days in a truly unique nation.
Detour: To truly venture off the beaten path, take a 4km (2.5 miles) detour from the main Paro–Thimphu road at Shaba to join pilgrims in a clockwise procession around the miracle-working and sin-absolving caves, rocks, and shrines of Drak Kharpo monastery.
2. Up and over the Dochu La
Optimal for Himalayan vistas and Trans Bhutan Trail hiking
Thimphu–Punakha: 71km (44 miles); half a day
The road to the west of Thimphu traverses strategic Simtokha Dzong before winding its way through ancient forests to the 3140m (10,300ft) Dochu La, which is situated amidst the vibrant red and pink rhododendron forests of the Royal Botanical Park. Arriving at the pass shortly after dawn offers the best opportunity for an expansive Himalayan panorama featuring 7570m (24,836ft) Gangkhar Puensum, the highest unclimbed peak globally. Enjoy a cup of coffee at the café while soaking in views highlighted by a collection of 108 memorial stupas.
On the eastern side of the pass, the road descends sharply through blue pine and hemlock forests, leading to the Chimi Lhakhang temple. This site was established to honor Lama Drukpa Kunley, famously known as the “Divine Madman,” whose spirited phallus adorns numerous homes throughout Bhutan.
From this temple, it’s a brief drive to Punakha Dzong, recognized as Bhutan’s most aesthetically sublime structure. On your journey, be sure to avoid the sacred boulder situated centrally on the highway, exemplifying how road safety in Bhutan intertwines with spiritual beliefs.
Detour: The 400km (250-mile) long Trans Bhutan Trail parallels the main road on either side of Dochu La and is highly recommended for a section of the recently restored hiking trail. Our preferred segment is the one-hour downhill trek from the pass to the Ser Bhum Brewery, one of Bhutan’s three microbreweries, where you can savor a Bhutan Glory amber ale.
3. The Road to Laya: Punakha to Gasa
Optimal for secluded Himalayan valleys
Punakha–Gasa; 61km (38 miles); one day
Most of Bhutan’s roadways stretch east to west across a winding series of ridge-top passes. However, a few routes run north to south along ancient pathways to and from Tibet, with one of the most captivating being the paved road northward from Punakha. This route follows the Mo Chu river, passing royal residences and luxury resorts to reach the Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten, a modern 30m (98ft) stupa designed to safeguard the country, filled with fierce protectors and demons, some depicted riding snow lions and even a yeti.
As you pass Tashithang village (remember to exit the vehicle to fully appreciate the melodious birdsong), a final ascent leads to Gasa’s striking Tashi Thongmoen Dzong, a 17th-century fortress that significantly contributed to the arrival of Bhutan’s founder, the Zhabdrung, from Tibet. In March, the Gasa tsechu festival attracts visitors from far and wide for three days of spectacular masked performances.
Conclude your journey by indulging in the therapeutic qualities of Gasa’s renowned riverside tsa chhu (hot springs) prior to your return to Punakha.
Planning tip: Recent road enhancements now allow you to extend the drive northward to within a couple of hours’ hike from Laya, providing an adventurous three-day road trip opportunity to this formerly isolated Himalayan valley.
4. Bhutan’s highest road: the Cheli La
Optimal for enthusiasts of high-altitude drives
Paro–Cheli La; 40km (25 miles); half a day
If time is constrained, a day trip from Paro to the chilly heights of Cheli La, recognized as Bhutan’s highest accessible road (3810m / 12,500ft), is achievable. The meandering mountain road ascends steeply, passing sacred springs and vibrant rock paintings of the Himalayan figure Guru Rinpoche. (Be aware that if it is raining in the Paro valley, snow is likely on the pass.)
Upon reaching the pass, you may wish to join your guide in a shout of “lha-gey lu” (“may the gods be victorious!”), followed by an exploration of the thousands of wind-battered prayer flags that adorn the ridge. Hiking paths extend further along the ridge, leading to panoramic views of the 7314m (24,000ft) Jomolhari peak.
If your schedule permits, consider descending the western side of the pass for a three-day exploration into Haa, a stunning forested valley replete with temples and hiking routes that are seldom frequented by international visitors.
Detour: While traveling to Cheli La, stop at the picturesque Dzongdrakha Lhakhang to explore its series of cliffside temples and hear captivating stories told by the caretaker about guardian deities and miraculous stupas.
5. Into Bhutan’s remote east
Optimal for connoisseurs of off-the-beaten-track travel
Bumthang–Trashigang: 275km (171 miles); four days
Bhutan’s most adventurous road trip takes you to the remote and infrequently-visited eastern regions. In this part of the country, road conditions and accommodation may be less favorable, and travel durations longer; nevertheless, this journey provides an opportunity to experience a section of the country that remains largely untouched by the influx of tourists in western Bhutan.
Beginning in Bumthang in central Bhutan, the delicate highway eastward presents magnificent views as you navigate the misty cliffs of the 3750m (12,303ft) Thrumshing La; following this pass, the descent spirals around beautiful waterfalls until you finally reach the humid valley floor. This is arguably the most untamed drive within Bhutan.
After an overnight stay in Mongar, the second stage of your journey becomes easier, crossing the 2400m (7875ft) Kori La and eventually arriving in the quaint locale of Trashigang.
Anticipate spending a couple of nights in Trashigang, taking day trips to nearby pilgrimage sites such as Gom Kora and the Nepali-style structure of Chorten Kora, which hosts vibrant festivals in March and April attracting visitors from the nearby regions of Arunachal Pradesh and India. Moreover, consider exploring the recently-connected valleys of Sakteng and Merak, where the Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary is reputed to safeguard the habitat of the Bhutanese migoi, commonly known as the yeti.
From Trashigang, you have the option to fly back to Paro from the Yongphula airstrip, leaving a day or two in Paro as a contingency for potential flight delays. Otherwise, plan for a substantial three or four-day vehicle return to Paro.
Planning tip: Verify whether the Bhutan–India border at Samdrup Jongkhar is accessible; if so, you could drive south from Trashigang and cross into Indian Assam to visit Guwahati and the Brahmaputra River.
Driving tips for visiting citizens of India
Indian nationals desiring to bring their own vehicle or motorcycle into Bhutan at Phuentsholing may do so; however, they must pay 4500 ngultrum per day and present their vehicle registration, insurance, tax, and emission documents, alongside their driving license. Furthermore, to access areas beyond Paro and Thimphu, a route permit (acquired in Thimphu) is also required.
