Discover Guadeloupe: A Caribbean Escape
Lonely Planet guidebook author Brian Healy loves seeking out warm destinations to escape to in January. This year, his quest led him from New York City to Guadeloupe, where he experienced five days of swimming, hiking, and dancing under (mostly) sunny skies. Here, he shares some insights and tips for those seeking to escape the winter blues with a similar Caribbean holiday.
Where did you stay? What was the vibe?
A marvelous cottage belonging to charming host Laurent. The simple two-room bungalow had everything needed. However, it was the terrace just outside where time was spent. Covered to protect from frequent passing showers, the space was perfect for breakfast, reading, and catching up on emails.
What was the most touristy thing you did?
Feeding the lorikeets. In Deshaies, on Basse-Terre’s west coast, the Jardin Botanique offers a well-curated, beautifully manicured survey of tropical flora from all over the world. The highlight? The aviary enclosure, where dozens of brightly colored and very hungry lorikeets flitter about.
The minute you open a small container of the sugary syrup they love (available at the garden entrance), expect a flutter of rainbow-feathered wings as new friends alight on your arm to slurp up the treat.
Favorite activity from the trip?
Swimming, whenever and wherever possible. Guadeloupe’s beaches – La Caravelle, Grande Anse, Malendure – are justly famous, and the opportunity to swim in the crystalline waters of the Caribbean never disappoints. A highlight was swimming in the pool fed by the cool fresh waters of the Cascade aux Écrevisses, reachable along the must-drive Route de la Traversée, which cuts through Basse-Terre.
What’s your favorite photo from the trip and where was it taken?
Shots of a Carnival celebration in the small town of Ste-Rose. Driving home from the beach, the traffic stood still, which was at first annoying. However, hearing the beat of hundreds of drums in the distance prompted a decision to park and explore.
This turned out to be the best decision of the trip. Guadeloupe’s Carnival, or “Kannaval,” celebrations occur weekly in various towns from January until the Tuesday before Lent. Stumbling upon the festivities in Ste-Rose introduced a vibrant atmosphere, with glittering parades and energetic celebrations.
What do you wish you had packed?
A waterproof rain shell. La Soufriére volcano, the tallest point in the Lesser Antilles, requires a hike to its summit. The initial section of the hike is straightforward; however, as the ascent becomes rocky, encountering rain and wind can be expected. Reaching the summit was thrilling, despite arriving in a soaked cotton sweater. Therefore, packing lightweight, watertight layers is a must for outdoor excursions in Guadeloupe.
What is one thing that you did not expect?
The power of Mémorial ACTe in Pointe-à-Pitre. This institution presents a remarkable interactive exhibition on slavery and its role in colonialism. Covering centuries of history, the galleries treat difficult subjects with respect. The excellent audio guide brings significant sources to life, enhancing the experience. A visit is highly recommended for anyone interested in learning about this important aspect of history.
