Encircled by mountains of myth and sitting astride the shores of its eponymous lake of bluest blue, Lucerne is every bit as gorgeous as it was back in the 19th century when Goethe, Wagner, and Queen Victoria eulogized its beauty. Slow travel comes naturally here, with boats, trains, and cable cars breezing across the lake and up to nearby Alpine heights. From the birthplace of the nation to sky-scraping glaciers, here’s our pick of the best days out from Lucerne.
Float on the Jewel-Colored Waters of Lake Uri
Switzerland’s heart in every possible sense of the word, Lake Lucerne’s southernmost arm, Lake Uri, is its most ravishing. At times as narrow as a fjord, Lake Uri’s jewel-colored green-blue waters give way to forested cliffs and peaks that rise sheer and rugged.
Cruise these waters, and you’ll glimpse Rütli Meadow, hallowed birthplace of the Swiss Confederation as the spot where the Oath of Eternal Allegiance was signed in 1291. Nearby is the Tellskapelle, a little chapel ensconced in woods, where the apple-shooting hero and Swiss rebel William Tell is said to have leaped to safety from the boat of his Hapsburg captor, Gessler.
Myths abound at the Schillerstein, a near 30m-high natural obelisk jutting up above the lake. Its inscription pays homage to Friedrich Schiller, the author of the play William Tell.
How to reach Lake Uri: Boat is the way to see Lake Uri. Take SGV’s regular ferry service from Brunnen to Flüelen (44 minutes). Trains link Lucerne to Brunnen (46 minutes) and Flüelen (one hour).
Hike Waterfalls and High-Alpine Moors in Meiringen
Tucked in the eastern corner of Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland region, Meiringen boasts a phenomenally beautiful backyard, with hiking and cycling trails leading to wild valleys, waterfalls, and high-Alpine moors.
Get an early train for time to see both of its major natural wonders. First is the 250m-high Reichenbach Falls, which plummets over sheer, wooded cliff faces with a deafening roar. You can see how author Arthur Conan Doyle thought it the perfect backdrop for a dramatic finale: in The Final Problem, he pushed both Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Moriarty over the precipice here.
The Aare Gorge is equally riveting, with tunnels and galleries wending past milky-blue torrents and limestone overhangs.
Stay longer to delve deeper into the Hasli Valley—to see the Triftbrücke, Europe’s highest (100m) and longest (170m) suspension bridge, dangling precariously over the Trift Glacier, or the waterfall-laced glacier gorge of Rosenlaui.
How to reach Meiringen: Meiringen is a 50-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A8. There are hourly trains to Meiringen (1 hour 10 minutes).
Climb Mt Pilatus on the World’s Steepest Cog Railway
Mountains and valleys seem to ripple into infinity from the 2128m peak of Mt Pilatus, where the restless ghost of Roman prefect Pontius Pilate is said to roam. As the legend goes, his corpse was thrown into a lake at the summit, and he has haunted these parts ever since – hence the name.
Since 1889, the mountain has been reachable by the world’s steepest cog railway, with an incredible gradient of 48%. This trip is an easy and scenic day excursion from Lucerne. Historically, it would have required more effort to reach Pilatus when Wagner praised its views and Queen Victoria rode here on horseback. However, the exhilarating views on the walking trail remain unchanged, providing a vista across the lake, deep into the Swiss Alps, and as far as Germany’s Black Forest on clear days.
How to reach Mt Pilatus: From May to October, you can enjoy a “golden round-trip” day excursion, a combination of boat, cogwheel railway, cable car, and bus.
Witness a Blazing Sunrise or Sunset from Mt Rigi
Puckering up between lakes Lucerne and Zug, the 1797m peak of Mt Rigi is renowned for its stunning sunrises and sunsets. Turner was captivated by the outlook and the quality of the light, painting the mountain in various hues (Blue Rigi, Dark Rigi, and Red Rigi) in 1842.
Europe’s oldest mountain railway, celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2021, transports you to the summit. The extraordinary view stretches across both lakes to Mt Titlis and the glaciated peaks of the Jungfrau massif. On clear days, you can see 24 of Switzerland’s 26 cantons. There are ample high-level hiking trails during summer and low-key skiing, snowshoeing, and sledding in winter.
If you prefer rejuvenation with a breathtaking view, visit the Mario Botta-designed Mineralbad & Spa Rigi Kaltbad.
How to reach Mt Rigi: Frequent trains run to Vitznau (one hour) and Goldau (32 minutes), where you can connect with cogwheel railways to Rigi Kulm.
Head to Brunnen for Paragliding, Sailing, and Kitesurfing
Cradled in the folds of jagged mountains, where Lake Lucerne narrows sharply south, Brunnen’s quayside is picturesque. Turner was so impressed by the view during his visit that he painted The Bay of Uri from Brunnen in 1841. When the föhn wind sweeps down from the peaks, conditions are ideal for water sports such as sailing, paragliding, windsurfing, and kitesurfing. Alternatively, if a walk is more appealing, connect to a section of the 35km, two-day Swiss Path around Lake Uri.
The surroundings are not the only source of beauty. Victorinox hails from this region, and the Swiss Knife Valley Museum provides insights into its fascinating history, giving visitors the opportunity to assemble their own Swiss Army Knife.
How to reach Brunnen: Brunnen is a 40-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A4, or take a regular train (45 minutes to one hour).
Experience Winter Skiing or High-Altitude Hiking at Engelberg
Engelberg, literally “Angel Mountain,” transports you to an Alpine paradise with its stunning backdrop of glacier-streaked peaks towering over 3000m. In winter, skiers and boarders flock to the resort to carve fresh tracks in off-piste powder. In summer, these magnificent mountains offer endless high-altitude hiking trails.
The highlight is the glacier-topped 3238m Mt Titlis, Central Switzerland’s tallest mountain, home to the world’s first revolving cable car. Views from the top are staggering, especially if you dare to walk the Cliff Walk, Europe’s highest suspension bridge. To avoid crowds, it’s advisable to start your day early.
How to reach Engelberg: Engelberg is a 40-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A2. Hourly fast trains link Lucerne to Engelberg (43 minutes).
Ride the Funicular and Summit Stanserhorn
Stanserhorn, located south of Lucerne, offers an easy and quick way to ascend high above the lake. From the 1898m summit, an intricate tapestry of mountains, lakes, and forests unfurls. The journey is part of the experience, featuring a nostalgic ride in an 1893 funicular to Kälti, where the double-decker CabriO cable car takes over, climbing another 1100m in just 6½ minutes. This cable car, the world’s first to feature an open upper deck, can be breezy at the top.
At the summit, there are numerous hiking trails offering stunning views, as well as opportunities for hang-gliding and paragliding when conditions are suitable. The Stanserhorn Rangers provide fascinating insights into the local flora and fauna.
How to reach Stanserhorn: Stanserhorn is a 25-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A2. Frequent trains complete the journey in 13 minutes, with a funicular operating from mid-April to early November.
Visit Einsiedeln for a Peaceful Retreat
When Lucerne is crowded on summer weekends, Einsiedeln, nestled at the end of a valley and surrounded by gentle hills, provides a serene day trip. This small town, akin to Switzerland’s Lourdes, attracts pilgrims from far and wide. According to legend, the Bishop of Constance attempted to consecrate the original monastery in AD 964 but was interrupted by a divine voice declaring: “Desist. God himself has consecrated this building.”
Regardless of your beliefs, the 18th-century Klosterkirche abbey church is magnificent, featuring an opulent array of frescoes, stucco, marble, and gold accents. Pilgrims often pray before the tiny statue of the Black Madonna. For an impressive view over the abbey and the hills, trek up to the Statue of St Benedikt.
How to reach Einsiedeln: Einsiedeln is an hour’s drive east of Lucerne via the A14. There are twice-hourly trains (1¼ hours).
This article was first published Mar 9, 2021, and updated Apr 22, 2022.
