Exploring the Wonders of Northumberland

The northernmost county in England has an off-the-radar feel that’s rare to find on this otherwise bustling island. Much of the pristine coastline of Northumberland is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and its edge-of-the-world light has drawn in travelers for centuries, from early Christian saints to great Romantic painters.

The county’s interior is no less beguiling: a place of vast, untouched landscapes, remote walking paths, and gloriously dark skies. However, don’t be fooled by all this tranquility – Northumberland played a pivotal role in English history, and its battle-filled past is borne out by its catalog of ancient ruins and crumbling castles.

In recent times, invading Romans and Vikings and feuding royal families have been replaced by visiting horticulturists, hungry foodies, hikers, and Harry Potter fans, drawn by the region’s cameos in the movie franchise.

When planning your trip, be aware that many attractions hibernate during the chilly winter months. The arrival of spring is the perfect time to lace up your sturdy walking shoes and dive into the best experiences Northumberland has to offer.

Behold Bamburgh Castle

Bamburgh Castle’s ramparts, watchtowers, and storybook keep sprawl over a dolerite bluff overlooking a beautiful sweep of beach. This Norman fortress could have gone the way of the region’s other time-toppled strongholds, but 19th-century industrialist Lord Armstrong snapped it up for a bargain price and then spent a fortune on its restoration. His descendants still reside within its hefty stone walls.

Visitors can enjoy a fascinating glimpse into Northumberland’s battle-sieged past by touring the staterooms, dungeons, and grounds. Remember to clamber over the grassy dunes below the bluff – the view of the castle from the powder-soft sands is one of England’s loveliest vistas.

Seek Seals and Puffins on the Farne Islands

Piercing the North Sea a couple of miles off the Northumberland coast, the Farne Islands have provided sanctuary to shipwreck survivors and saints over the centuries. Today, these isolated isles serve as an important haven for wildlife – inquisitive seals, clown-billed puffins, and some 100,000 other seabirds come to these soot-colored outcrops to breed.

To get close to this photogenic crowd, board a boat in the village of Seahouses. Trips run all year, weather permitting, and various operators offer popular tours. Although the waters are invariably choppy, a windproof coat is nearly always needed. You can enjoy gentler rides from May to August, with almost guaranteed puffin and seal sightings.

From April to September, it’s possible to spend an hour exploring the National Trust-managed island of Inner Farne on foot – just bring a hat as protection from swooping Arctic terns.

Take a Pilgrimage to the Holy Island

The tiny tidal island of Lindisfarne became an unlikely center of English Christianity during the Early Middle Ages. Known as the Holy Island, it is dominated by the mottled medieval ruins of Lindisfarne Priory, marking the spot where St Aidan founded the island’s original monastery in 635 CE. Reaching Lindisfarne today involves walking or driving along a narrow causeway that is submerged at high tide; checking crossing times before traveling is advisable.

On the other side of the harbor, a steady trickle of daytrippers flows uphill to lovely Lindisfarne Castle. Sure-footed walkers can continue to the secluded northern beaches, but it’s just as rewarding to take a gentle stroll around the beautifully landscaped Gertrude Jekyll Garden, past sheds fashioned from upturned herring boats near the harbor, and through the island’s picturesque village. Don’t forget to savor some local specialties before the sea sweeps back across the causeway.

Experience the Magic of Alnwick Castle

Dating back to 1096, Alnwick Castle (pronounced AN-ik) boasts parklands landscaped by Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown and features paintings by several Italian Old Masters. It’s arguably more famous for its role as Hogwarts in the first two Harry Potter films. The imposing fortress has embraced its celebrity status, with castle tours highlighting filming locations; budding wizards can even undergo broomstick training in the same spot where Harry learned to fly.

The 4.8-hectare plot next door is home to Alnwick Garden, now a separate attraction, which features an enchanting web of contemporary, bloom-filled enclosures. At its heart is a spectacular 21-tiered water feature that occasionally drenches admirers with its dancing jets. Other highlights include a sinister poison garden and a bamboo labyrinth.

Feel a Warm Glow in Alnwick’s Town Center

While in Alnwick, explore the handsome cobbled center of the town, a perfect base for experiencing Northumberland. The people of the North East are known for their warmth and friendliness, and there’s no better place to enjoy this hospitality than in one of the town’s cheerful, hop-scented pubs. Welcoming volunteers invite families to the Bailiffgate Museum and Gallery, offering kid-friendly trails and hands-on activities. The old rail station also houses a unique establishment where you can find a cozy setting to relax amidst second-hand literature and charming decor.

Stroll the Coastal Path to Dunstanburgh Castle

The crumbling twin towers of 14th-century Dunstanburgh Castle can only be reached on foot, but it’s a lovely walk. Starting at the fishing village of Craster, you can follow the Northumberland Coast Path north through flat, grassy farmland dotted with cows and sheep. As you spy the romantic ruins brooding in the background, you’ll understand why JMW Turner kept returning to this coastal region in his atmospheric watercolors. Binoculars may be needed to spot seals and dolphins bobbing about in the sea.

Although the two-mile walk is the main draw, tickets are available to enter the English Heritage-managed castle, where you can take in sweeping views from one of the castle towers. Afterward, enjoy a fresh crab sandwich at a nearby inn or head back towards the charming village for refreshments.

Feast on Some of England’s Freshest Seafood

The North Sea’s cold, mineral-rich waters provide some of England’s finest seafood. Keep an eye out for menu entries featuring Craster crabs and Lindisfarne oysters. A great place to savor these delicacies is The Potted Lobster in Bamburgh. Another regional treat is Craster kippers, traditionally smoked by L Robson & Sons, located right in Craster.

The local food van serves these kippers encased in butter within a soft bread bun. For fresh seafood straight from the boat, make your way to Amble, where elegant fish and chips and delicious sharing platters await.

Dilly-Dally in Amble

Amble is a hub for delicious seafood and family-friendly activities surrounding the River Coquet estuary. If you’re lucky enough to book ahead, you can join a puffin cruise around lighthouse-topped Coquet Island. Afterward, take a leisurely stroll around the harbor, admiring its pastel-colored beach huts, and browse the unique wooden retail pods that showcase local crafts and treats.

A playground lies south of the harbor, and you can indulge in award-winning ice cream or enjoy some fresh craft ales at a local brewery for added enjoyment.

Bask on the North East’s Epic Beaches

Visiting Northumberland without spending time on a beach would be like going to Paris and not sitting in a cafe. Bamburgh and Embleton Bay, with their romantic castle vistas, are two of the most popular choices for beachgoers, yet they remain pleasantly uncrowded. For variety, explore the soft sands of Alnmouth, pristine Cresswell Beach, or the artist L S Lowry’s favorite shores at Newbiggin-by-the-Sea.

Overlooking Beadnell Bay Beach, three 18th-century lime kilns were once the hideaway of smugglers and now serve as storage for lobster pots. To enjoy lobsters fresh off the catch, check in for Lobster Night at a local seafood eatery on Thursdays (excluding winter). Beadnell Bay’s sheltered waters are ideal for various watersport activities, with options for kitesurfing and paddleboarding available.

Hike Along Hadrian’s Wall

In 122 AD, the Roman Emperor Hadrian made a statement of authority with a monumental 73-mile stone frontier stretching across northern England. Northumberland is home to the longest surviving stretch of this historical landmark, weaving through captivating landscapes dotted with fort and temple ruins.

It’s possible to ramble the entire Hadrian’s Wall National Trail. If that sounds ambitious, starting with the dramatic section at Housesteads Roman Fort & Museum within Northumberland National Park is advisable. Enthusiasts can delve deeper into history by visiting the nearby live excavation site at Vindolanda Roman Fort & Museum.

Explore Roman Ruins and Sup Craft Beer in Corbridge

A short distance south of Hadrian’s Wall lies the ruins of Roman Corbridge, once the northernmost town in the Roman Empire. You can walk down its timeworn high street, gaining a sense of daily life in this bustling town two millennia past. The onsite museum is home to the Corbridge Hoard, a significant collection of arms and armor.

A stroll along the River Tyne leads you into the modern-day town of Corbridge, where you can explore independent shops before savoring a pint of local ale at a cozy micropub housed in a historic fortified building.

Marvel at the Ingenuity of Cragside

Cragside House, framed by stunning rhododendrons, was the first home in the world powered by electricity. Its pioneering owners embraced Victorian inventions, all stemming from an innovative hydroelectricity system. Visitors can tour the house and its impressive grounds for a full day of exploration, but make sure to visit the nearby town of Rothbury for charming independent shops and delightful cafes to recharge.

Dig Down into Mining History

A visit to the Woodhorn Museum is an engaging way to delve into the region’s industrial past. Situated on a historic site, the museum features interactive exhibits and mock-ups that offer a powerful insight into the lives of the miners who once worked here.

Look out for artworks by the “Pitmen Painters,” who captured life in Northumberland’s mining communities. With a mix of indoor galleries and dog-friendly outdoor spaces, Woodhorn is a great choice for a changeable weather day.

Admire Surprising Artworks at Kielder Water and Forest Park

Kielder Water and Forest Park is home to the largest man-made lake in northern Europe, serving as a scenic summer playground for watersports enthusiasts and those who appreciate large-scale art installations along the 26-mile shoreline.

Hiring a bike is a great way to explore these artworks, or you can enjoy manageable walking trails that take in some highlights. The memorable piece, Silvas Capitalis, crafted by the American collective SIMPARCH, allows visitors to step inside its giant wooden head and glimpse the surrounding forest.

Stargaze at Northumberland International Dark Sky Park

The night skies over Northumberland National Park and Kielder Water and Forest Park have been awarded gold tier status by the International Dark-Sky Association, making this the largest International Dark-Sky Park in the UK. On clear autumn and winter nights, stargazing becomes an enchanting experience.

The Kielder Observatory offers expert-led events for those wishing to learn about the galaxies. Alternatively, enjoy a stargazing night at a cozy inn with the added benefit of delicious local cuisine.