Polynesian flavors combine with contemporary culinary influences to make the most of the tropical fruit and seafood bounty of the Cook Islands.
Sample traditional dishes at Rarotonga’s popular markets, experience an authentic tumunu session on remote ‘Atiu, and be delighted by innovative dishes and one of the South Pacific’s most beautiful lagoons on stunning Aitutaki.
Here are the best things to eat and drink in the Cook Islands.
Feast at Local Food Trucks
Yes, food truck culture has made it to the Cook Islands, with a South Pacific twist. Usually parked up near Rarotonga’s Avatiu Harbour, The Kai Guy channels the flavors of Mexico and the Mediterranean with their tacos and Greek-style gyro wraps. Ocean-fresh fish is often the star of their most popular dishes.
Line-caught tuna, wahoo, and mahi-mahi are served in overflowing Turkish bread sandwiches at the popular Mooring Fish Cafe – co-owned by a Rarotongan fisherman – with the FOB (“Fresh Off the Boat”) mahi-mahi sandwich always a big seller at their Muri Beach location. Don’t miss adding a splash of Paul’s Raro Hot Sauce, crafted just along the road, and also available from their stall at the Punanga Nui market.
Check Out the Island Markets
Held every Saturday morning in the relaxed capital of Avarua, the Punanga Nui market is an ideal place to learn about traditional foods of the South Pacific. Māroro (flying fish) is grilled and served with cassava, especially popular as a weekend treat, while rukau, the young leaves of the taro plant, are mixed with coconut cream as a delicious side dish. Another highlight is the local dish of ika mata, raw fish marinated in coconut juice and lime. For the adventurous, the local delicacy mitiore (fermented coconut with onions and seafood) is a must-try.
Regularly available at Punanga Nui are freshly baked coconut buns, the perfect weekend brunch snack, especially when paired with coffee from the more remote island of ‘Atiu. The traditional Hawaiian dish of poke, filled with ocean-fresh tuna, is also becoming increasingly popular in Rarotonga, with a sweet dessert variation blending coconut cream and arrowroot with overripe bananas or pumpkin.
Several nights a week near Muri Lagoon, the Muri night market is also an essential destination for locals and visitors alike. Look forward to low prices and an abundance of ocean-fresh kai moana (seafood), with popular dishes at The Seafood Man’s stall including ika mata and garlic prawns.
Stay Hydrated, Cook Islands Style
Exploring the Cook Islands can be thirsty work, and the nation’s most popular cooling beverage is a young green coconut, or nu, chilled and ready to drink straight from the shell. Participants in hiking or mountain biking tours on Rarotonga often enjoy a refreshing nu with their lunch.
Lots of tropical fruits mean abundant tropical smoothies; year-round fruits like papaya and bananas are transformed into creamy deliciousness at island markets. Order from stalls at the Punanga Nui market or look for the vibrant Be Fruitful caravan at the Muri night market. During the summer months of November to March, seasonal fruits like mango, pineapple, passionfruit, and star fruit are also featured in juices and smoothies.
Beer is the most popular alcoholic beverage in the Cook Islands, particularly the frosty lager from the Rarotonga Brewery. Focusing on minimizing environmental waste, the brewery avoids producing bottled beer; their refreshing lager is available exclusively on tap at local cafes, bars, and restaurants, with refillable takeaway two-liter flagons available at the brewery. A popular complement to beer are “Island fries,” made with local taro or breadfruit, which serve as a delicious alternative to traditional french fries at Rarotonga’s bars and cafes.
On the island of ‘Atiu, tumunu (bush beer-drinking clubs) are a cherished local custom, where men gather to enjoy “bush beer” fermented with oranges, malt extract, and sugar. This tradition emerged as a clandestine response to 19th-century Christian missionaries banning the consumption of kava.While it began as men-only gatherings, island visitors of all genders are welcomed to join in the experience.
Experience an umu
Related to a hāngi in New Zealand or a lovo in Fiji, an umu is a traditional Cook Islands earth oven. Vegetables including taro and yams are cooked together with chicken and fish on hot basalt stones. For special occasions like an island wedding, a roast suckling pig may also be served. While umu is typically prepared for community feasts and celebrations, a convenient option for visitors is to join an Umu Kai experience, where participants can help prepare the umu, enjoy an exciting fire show, and embark on a walking tour exploring the history and culture of the Cook Islands.
Ease into Cafe Culture
Thanks to the Cook Islands’ political status – self-governing in free association with New Zealand – cosmopolitan Kiwi cafe culture has reached Rarotonga and the smaller lagoon archipelago of Aitutaki. Top spots in Rarotonga for a flat white coffee include Beluga Cafe in Arorangi and LBV in Muri, while Soul Cafe, a short walk from central Avarua, serves a delightful eggs Benedict featuring local rukau instead of spinach. Soul’s smoothies are also popular, with the Scoop Dog smoothie being especially good, blending banana, peanut butter, and an optional shot of espresso.
On Aitutaki, the garden setting of Avatea Cafe is perfect for a leisurely lunch of tuna tacos served with “fry bread” influenced by New Zealand’s indigenous Māori culture, and a fish curry made with local renga (turmeric). Co-owner Karin Crombie also offers housemade kombucha with island ginger and a seasonal selection of ice cream crafted from local fruits.
