Brussels’ reputation for dullness is quite unwarranted. Here’s why.
Question: My friends and I (all in our 30s and single) are looking for a good European city break for October, and Brussels is looking to be good value for flights and accommodation. Yet I heard it can be boring on weekends, and most people who work there get out of town. Should we look elsewhere?
Luke Waterson: This is a great question, and it makes me smile for a number of reasons. Belgium’s own monarch, Leopold II, once famously remarked: “Je suis le souverain d’un petit pays et de petites gens” (I am the sovereign of a small country and a small people). What’s more, Brussels is the seat of the massive EU bureaucracy and home to all the Eurocrats who oil its cogs during the week before hightailing it off to somewhere more compelling for the weekend.
However, even if the first part of that last sentence were true (and, I know from experience, it might be), eating is one of the best experiences on any holiday, right? What’s not to love about moules frites (mussels with French fries), fall-apart-at-a-fork-touch Flanders tenderloin, waffles, and probably the world’s best chocolates? Head to Brussels’ Sablon neighborhood for some of the finest treats, all washed down with beer brewed by Trappist monks. If nothing else happened during your entire break in Belgium besides consuming Belgium’s food and drink (think German-sized portions prepared with French-style flair), it would be far from a disaster.
Moreover, most capital cities have centers of government, right? And dull as such centers can be, we don’t label those cities as boring. Leaving Leopold II out of it, I honestly don’t understand why Brussels gets its reputation for mundanity.
Let’s begin in the middle of it all: the Unesco-listed Grand Place, one of Europe’s most beautiful central squares. If you fancy something less magnificently Baroque, the city’s number one attraction, the Atomium, commands excellent views from the top. The Atomium is an impressive arrangement of nine spheres mimicking what a single iron crystal would resemble if magnified 165 billion times. Interested in street art or comics? Belgium is home to Tintin, one of the 20th century’s best-known comic strips, and many central buildings are adorned with Tintin-inspired murals.
Sure, I know sightseeing isn’t the only thing on a 30-something’s agenda. You want decent nightlife, right? Delirium Café near the Grand Place holds the world record for the largest number of beers available in one spot (about 2000). Bozar is one of the best exhibition, concert, and world cinema venues, housed in a 1929 art deco building in the city center. The Brussels Canal district is now abounding with cool new waterside bars, restaurants, and galleries.
The clubs? They’re pretty lively. Plus, Brussels is the capital of a country that fuses French and Flemish culture, as well as the seat of the EU – which ensures there are representatives from every European nation present.
October isn’t the busiest month for city festivities, which is probably reflected in the cheaper accommodation deals. There are fantastic festivals throughout the year, though. The fabulous Christmas Market lasts from November to January. The striking Carnival of Binche, held just before Lent in nearby Hainaut, is one of Europe’s oldest and most distinctive street parties. May brings Jazz Weekend and the wacky Zinneke Parade, where people march through the streets in colorful costumes.
In truth, there are not many dull moments here.
Lastly, suppose you regret choosing Brussels, and the city falls short of expectations? You’ll find that the city is a pretty good place for making sudden changes of plans. You’ve got medieval marvels like Ghent and Bruges an hour and 1.5 hours northwest, respectively; fashion capital Antwerp an hour north; Amsterdam three hours northeast; and Paris four hours southwest (or under 90 minutes via the high-speed Thalys).
There’s got to be some entertainment somewhere in all those places.
