Cusco might be just a short flight south from Peru’s capital, Lima, but you’ll feel as if you traveled centuries back in time.
Filled with lush hills, fertile soil, and spotless views of the Milky Way, this mystical and high-altitude setting was once strategically chosen to be the heart of the Inca Empire. Impressively, examples of impeccable stone architecture from the 15th and 16th centuries remain standing – elusive fortresses, imposing temples honoring natural elements, and steep agricultural terraces that snake across hillsides.
In the absence of a written language, the history of the Incas is shrouded in mystery. Therefore, the best way to connect with the ancient Peruvian powerhouse is by literally following in their footsteps. Tie on your hiking boots and embark on a week-long exploration of southern Peru’s sacred Cusco region.
It is advisable to acclimatize in lower altitude parts of the region before exploring the higher elevations in Cusco.
Day 1: Cusco City
The centrality of Cusco city to the Inca is evident in its name – it means ‘navel of the world’ in the ancient indigenous Quechua language. Other cultural touchstones remain, including the annual Inti Raymi celebration, which honors the Sun God at the winter solstice in June. The parade’s route is perfect for a full day in Cusco, no matter what time of year.
Built in honor of the Sun God, Inti, the 15th-century Qoricancha once dripped in gold. Considered the most important Inca temple, the Spaniards dismantled the Temple of the Sun, converting what was left into the foundation of the Santo Domingo church. Today you can still tour the temple for a visual display of the interconnection of Western religion and indigenous culture.
Next, head to the Plaza de Armas, which was once a great meeting center for the Inca. The main square features a lovely fountain, bountiful flower beds, and benches where locals and travelers sit side-by-side. Surrounded by colonial architecture housing shops and restaurants, the Plaza continues to be center stage for religious and cultural celebrations.
Plan to visit Sacsayhuaman, an archaeological site believed to have been a fortress or ceremonial center (or perhaps both). A 15-minute walk from the main square, Sacsayhuaman includes plazas, altars, towers, caves, and offers stunning views of the city below.
Day 2: The Sacred Valley
On your second day, leave the city behind and enter the mystic countryside known as the Sacred Valley. The best route is to pass through Pisac, a tiny town that fully embraces new-age culture. After enjoying a ceremonial cacao from a local cafe, stroll to the main square where you’ll find a trailhead to Pisac’s towering Inca terraces. Likely serving as a defense point protecting Cusco city, these are some of the most intact Inca ruins in the valley and are well worth the steep, two-hour climb.
With an active morning behind you, continue west on the singular road that connects the entire valley. The altitude begins to drop, and you may want to stop by pleasant roadside villages such as Yucay, where bulls continue to plow crop fields, or the largest town in the area, Urubamba. Some 36 miles later, when the paved road turns to cobblestone, you’ll know you’ve reached your next destination, Ollantaytambo.
Day 3: Ollantaytambo
Too many travelers make the mistake of merely passing through Ollantaytambo on their way to Machupicchu. Instead, walk the cobblestone pedestrian streets accompanied by the constant sound of water rushing down the open canals until you find a morning breakfast cart serving a typical hot quinoa drink and bread with avocado. Once you’ve eaten, hike up to the Ollantaytambo archaeological site to take in the view from this Inca-era outpost and transit point between Cusco and Machupicchu.
Spend a few hours exploring the many-terraced sites of Ollantaytambo, which include the meticulously built Temple of the Sun and the Bath of the Ñusta (Inca princess). Following that, see what modern-day Ollantaytambo has to offer, from making your own spirit inspired by Andean botanicals at Distileria Andina to enjoying fantastic views from local restaurants.
Days 4 and 5: 2-Day Inca Trail
After a few days in the unique blend of contemporary life and ancient backdrops, it’s time to immerse yourself in nature. While the classic 4-Day Inca Trail will bring you face-to-face with more Inca archaeological sites, the 2-day option is an incredible hike to Machupicchu, located in a tropical mountain forest.
Having passed by waterfalls and walked through historic sites, hikers will inch their way up the staircase of Inti Punku, or Sun Gate, for a remarkable first glimpse of Machupicchu (2,430m). The sensation of having walked an authentic Inca path to reach the 15th-century citadel enhances the visit’s memorability.
After a refreshing night’s rest, return to Machupicchu the following day for a full guided tour of the world-famous site. This awe-inspiring ancient city was never revealed to the Spanish and was virtually forgotten until the early part of the 20th century. The true purpose of Machupicchu remains somewhat of a mystery; it might have been founded in the later years of the last Incas or it could have already become an uninhabited, forgotten city.
The exceptionally high quality of the stonework and the abundance of ornamental features suggest that Machupicchu was once a vital ceremonial center. With its advanced irrigation system and environmentally-conscious architectural design, Machupicchu continues to astonish all who visit. After lunch, take the train back to Ollantaytambo.
Day 6: Maras and Moray
The Incas carved thousands of salt ponds into the slope of a mountainside in Maras; today, locals continue to mine the ancient salt pans, retrieving what is considered to be one of the healthiest salts on the planet. An hour from Ollantaytambo by taxi, walk alongside the Maras salt mines’ stunning mosaic of pink and white rectangles and purchase a sack of salt to take home.
Not even 15 minutes away lies Moray, a collection of four concentric circles that had practical and spiritual use for the Incas. The most extensive circular terrace, Quechumuyoc, is believed to have served as an agricultural laboratory due to its wide range of microclimates. This innovative concept inspired renowned Peruvian chef Virgilio Martinez, who opened his restaurant MIL nearby.
After walking the perimeter of Moray, soak up your final moments in the Sacred Valley and express gratitude to Pachamama (Mother Earth) before returning to the airport in Cusco city. The energy from the apus (sacred mountains) and the sheer quantity of archaeological sites in the Cusco region resonate with travelers long after their return home.
If you’re eager to continue your exploration, Southern Peru boasts plenty more unique experiences and exceptional cuisine to discover.
