Exploring El Salvador: A Journey with GoTravelDaily
We aimed for a brief getaway to a Spanish-speaking country that is relatively close, warm (but not too warm!), and somewhat under the radar. Why not El Salvador? My husband Dan and I thought.
Having enjoyed a fabulous week in neighboring Guatemala in 2020, we were intrigued by El Salvador’s offerings. Recent significant policy changes under Nayib Bukele, the country’s young and popular president, have notably improved public safety and opened up areas previously hard to reach. Intrigued by the highland towns, volcanoes, and famed beaches, we decided to embark on a six-day adventure to explore this Massachusetts-sized country.
Transportation and Costs
We rented a car at the international airport for $65 per day, which turned out to be an excellent decision. The roads are in exceptional condition, featuring well-maintained highways and the occasional dual carriageway connecting towns, including mountainous areas. Driving under the vibrant red flame-tree blossoms and through coastal tunnels was a wonderful experience.
Initially, we were worried about road quality and considered using public buses for our transportation. However, our concerns proved unfounded; even in remote areas, the roads were smooth with only a few potholes. We drove nearly 350 miles in six days, and it was a breeze.
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Under-the-Radar Activities
We spent two nights in Suchitoto, known for its remarkable collection of colonial architecture. The tranquility of the town is its charm. Sitting in the main square with ice cream while observing children play and elderly residents converse gave us a glimpse into authentic Salvadoran life. Additionally, we enjoyed people-watching at the Puerto San Juan pavilion on Lake Suchitlán, where families gather for Sunday lunches featuring fried fish and beer.
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Unexpected Discoveries
One surprise during our trip was the Qute, a compact auto from India that has replaced traditional three-wheeled tuk-tuks in rural towns. These tiny four-door vehicles look remarkably like the car emoji (🚗) and can accommodate four passengers. Locals widely use them as taxis on narrow village roads.
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Favorite Activity
Our favorite experience was the three-hour climb to the rim of Santa Ana volcano, located in the stunning Parque Nacional Los Volcanes. For $30, we hired a guide to take us on this adventure; it is a mandatory requirement for safety and environmental considerations. The trek led us through lush jungle, eventually revealing breathtaking views of Lake Coatepeque and the surrounding countryside. At the summit, we were rewarded with a magnificent view down into a bubbling sea-green crater lake.
Local Beverages
If you’re wondering about local beer, a cold Suprema lager will cost you only $1.25, as El Salvador uses the US dollar as its currency.
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Touristy Experiences
We also decided to drive the famous Ruta de las Flores, located in the western highlands. The refreshing cool air and picturesque views from the hills, adorned with coffee plantations and forests, were delightful. The quaint hilltop towns of Juayúa, Apaneca, and Ataco (where we stayed) captured a sleepy charm that deserves more visitors. Interestingly, we encountered very few foreigners in this region.
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In El Tunco, the well-known surfer haven, the dramatic coastline indeed impressed us; however, the atmosphere felt a bit too focused on surfing and nightlife for our liking. Consequently, we adjusted our itinerary and included a stop in San Salvador.
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Travel Tips
A crucial tip for travelers is not to overlook the vibrant city of San Salvador. The Centro Historico is lively, with a bustling market where local vendors attract customers with enticing offers, making it a must-see. The crypt of the cathedral, housing Óscar Romero’s entombment, is particularly moving.
Additionally, don’t miss the spectacular El Rosario church. Its exterior resembles a concrete bunker, yet the interior is transformed by colorful glass, casting stunning light patterns throughout the sanctuary.
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Memorable Moments
One of my favorite memories from the trip was the vibrant dance party we stumbled upon in Plaza Libertad, right outside El Rosario. I was amazed by the participants’ energy as they danced to live music under the bright sun, with people from various backgrounds joyfully joining in. This lively scene perfectly captured the essence of my delight in discovering this beautiful Central American country.