Train Journey from Vienna to Saalfelden Leogang with GoTravelDaily
Our slow travel series explores how you can take more mindful journeys by train, boat, bus, or bike – with tips on how to reach your no-fly destination, and what to see and do along the way. In this installment, Petra Loho explains how the train from Vienna to Saalfelden Leogang provides a soulful weekend of exercise and relaxation.
The Longing for Mountains
When you live in the eastern part of Austria, where wind turbines rather than Alps are the highest things around, the longing for mountains can become overwhelming. Fortunately, Austria is small enough that you can ease this yearning over a long weekend. Alpine pastures with grazing sheep and cows, crystal-clear mountain rivers, and vibrant wildflowers are only a train ride away.
Having fallen in love with the area during my first school ski course in Saalfelden at age 14, I have returned consistently. Nowadays, I opt for hiking shoes over ski boots, especially since Saalfelden Leogang features car-free access to hiking trails suitable for all skill levels.
The Departure: Buzzing Through Vienna’s Central Station
The first leg of my train journey on a sunny Saturday morning was the commute to Vienna’s Hauptbahnhof on the local S-Bahn. From there, the Railjet to Saalfelden Leogang was set to depart.
A glance at the overhead information board confirmed the platform number and that the train was on time. However, what it didn’t reveal was the oversized bee floating above my head, representing the ÖBB Rail Bees project — an initiative by the national train operator to support bee colonies along their network.
As the train conductor’s whistle signaled imminent departure, I settled into my reserved window seat. It is advisable to prebook your seats. The €3 charge is reasonable especially given the unusual seat-numbering system.
The Journey: Enjoying Austria’s Varied Landscapes
Once the train left Vienna, the scenery transformed, with corn, pumpkin, and wheat fields flashing past. Fruit trees adorned the roadside, while fields of rapeseed offered vibrant color against greens and earthy browns.
As I gazed out, sunlight warming my face, feelings of pride and inner peace settled in. The first lines of the Austrian national anthem echoed in my mind: “Land of mountains, land by the river…” The sight of a baroque church perched atop a hill completed this picturesque view.
As the journey continued, the landscapes changed dramatically. Mountains appeared, raising anticipation for what was ahead, particularly between Salzburg and Bischofshofen where jagged rocks and a waterfall splashed beneath a high arched bridge.
The highlight of the trip was passing through the Zell am See station. The train rolled along the lakeshore, revealing a lively scene of sailing boats and swimmers enjoying the refreshing waters.
The Arrival: An Immediate Hike
Upon arrival at Saalfelden train station, just slightly past the scheduled time, I took a deep breath of fresh mountain air and greeted the towering peaks. This simple ritual always gives me the sense of having truly arrived.
After a few hours on the train, my body longed for movement. Following a swift check-in at my accommodation, I set out for a two-hour walk, eager to warm up for the next day’s hike around the 1762m (5780ft) Asitzhöhe, dubbed the “mountain of the senses” by locals.
Travel Tips for Your Journey
Prices for train tickets vary, influenced by when and where you purchase them. Generally, the earlier you buy, the cheaper the fare. For example, booking at the last minute, I paid €63 for my economy class journey to Saalfelden and €53 for the return trip in first class.
You can also bring your bicycle on the Railjet by reserving space for €3. Alternatively, for travelers preferring to travel light, a door-to-door bike and luggage shipping service is available for ÖBB routes in Austria, South Tyrol, and Germany.
