A multi-stop itinerary from London to Barcelona – via Paris and the Pyrenees – is a train lover’s dream.
High in the Pyrenees on a sunny morning, I had the rare feeling of leaving the modern world completely behind for a few moments.
I was standing at an international border blocked to road traffic by a jumble of rocks and debris. It was strange to find such an off-course place on this journey – I had been traveling in a nearly straight line between three of Europe’s great cities – but good fortune and a search for adventure had brought me to this strange and deserted frontier post.
Anyone familiar with the travel history between France and Spain might think I had arrived at Canfranc, the vast border station hidden away in the mountains separating these countries. In fact, I was 200km further east, near the international station of Latour-de-Carol–Enveitg, named after the two nearest settlements.
Gray-green mountains stretched steeply upwards around me, with rolling farmland below. Stepping through the makeshift barricade (an apparent remnant from COVID-era restrictions), I took a few steps into Spain – then crossed back again, reflecting on the arbitrary nature of a land frontier. Then it was time to return to the station for my onward connection.
The Journey Begins
Traveling from London to Paris is a familiar route, but venturing onward offers different experiences. Most travelers opt for the high-speed TGV between France and Spain. Yet, the charming alternative presented an excellent value and the opportunity to embrace a slower pace. After my familiar journey from London’s St Pancras International to the Gare du Nord in Paris, I chose to walk across the city to the Austerlitz station.
Despite being under renovation, this terminus exudes charm. Its lack of high-speed services creates a tranquil environment compared to other busy Parisian stations, making it a preferable starting point. It’s conveniently located near numerous attractions, including vibrant bars and restaurants in the Fifth Arrondissement, perfect for enjoying a nightcap before heading south.
An Overnight Treat for Travelers
French sleeper trains, such as the Intercités de Nuit, are enjoying a revival as travelers choose the convenience and eco-friendliness of overnight rail travel. Many previously canceled routes like Paris to Nice are being reinstated, with the Paris to Latour-de-Carol route remaining a cherished and scenic journey.
This train offered a delightful experience. Departing on time, we traveled at a leisurely pace to Toulouse, France’s fifth-largest city, providing relaxation while traveling through the valleys of the Ariège River. Dawn revealed breathtaking views as the Pyrenees emerged in their full splendor. Along the way, we made stops that allowed passengers to stretch their legs while enjoying the fresh mountain air.
Arriving in Latour-de-Carol
Upon arriving at Latour-de-Carol, there weren’t many passengers. A small group disembarked, all with some time before the connection to Barcelona. Conveniently located across from the station was the Bistrot de la Gare, where friendly staff welcomed customers with fresh baguettes. An essential caffeine fix was much appreciated to fuel our exploration for the next 90 minutes.
This station is uniquely situated, featuring the longest covered platform in Europe and connections to various routes, including scenic trains heading east toward Perpignan through the beautiful French countryside.
The historical significance of the area became clearer as memorials for soldiers fleeing the Spanish Civil War provided context to this once critical corridor. The quiet leg stretch along a scenic country lane was unforgettable.
Onward to Barcelona
As the Rodalies train prepared to depart, I reflected on the journey ahead. Slowly departing, we soon crossed into Spain, passing quaint Catalan villages, some seemingly frozen in time. This route offers wonderful exploration opportunities, including access to hiking in the Vall de Núria and nearby historic monasteries.
This scenic rail journey stretched over three and a half hours, gradually blending from nature to urban surroundings as we approached Barcelona. Upon arrival at Sants station, the vibrant energy of the city enveloped me, marking the end of an incredible journey. Yet, this is just the beginning for those ready to explore further afield.
With a final moment to savor the city’s landscape from a lively street-side table, the experience of this slow travel adventure was indeed a highlight of my journey.
