Calcio Storico: The Historic Sport of Florence
When traveling through Tuscany during the warmer months, encountering parades of people in colorful, traditional clothing inspired by medieval culture is common. Historic reenactments are deeply rooted in local folklore, taking Tuscans back to an era of city-states, tower houses, and clashing dynasties.
If a town in this region has a rich history, it likely has a festival honoring its heritage. For instance, Siena hosts its Palio, Arezzo celebrates the Giostra del Saracino, and Montepulciano holds its Bravìo delle Botti. However, none of these festivities can compare to Florence’s calcio storico, taking place each year in June in Piazza di Santa Croce.
Imagine fifty-four (mostly bare-chested) men battling in a 5000-square-meter sand arena, known as the sabbione, located in the heart of this Renaissance city, surrounded by 4000 cheering spectators and multiple ambulances ready to assist injured players. This fierce competition combines elements of football, boxing, wrestling, and rugby-style tackles. Four teams represent Florence’s historic neighborhoods: the Bianchi (Whites) of Santo Spirito, the Azzurri (Blues) of Santa Croce, the Rossi (Reds) of Santa Maria Novella, and the Verdi (Greens) of San Giovanni, all vying for the prestigious title.
The Origins of Calcio Storico Fiorentino
The origins of this sport are somewhat uncertain; however, it is often regarded as an heir to harpastum, a game played by Romans as early as the 1st century BCE. Typically, 1530 is referred to as the year when calcio storico fiorentino was born. At that time, football was a popular pastime in the streets of Florence and elsewhere in Italy.
The year 1530 marked a significant event in the city’s collective memory. Following a violent revolt in 1527 against the ruling Medici family, Florence briefly became a republic. Yet, this status was short-lived as Pope Clement VII, a Medici, struck a deal with Emperor Charles V, requesting an invasion to restore the former government.
The siege was planned for February 17, 1530. On that same day, a game of calcio had been organized in Santa Croce to celebrate Carnival. In a show of defiance, the Florentines opted to play despite the looming threat. When Charles V’s troops arrived, they found the Whites and Greens engaged in a spirited game, unaffected by the impending conflict.
This legendary match became known as the partita dell’assedio (“game of the siege”) and inspired the modern reenactment still celebrated today. While little is documented about the sport’s popularity after the 16th century, in 1930, the city council reintroduced the tradition to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the siege, and from then onward, it has been held annually in June.
The Rules of the Game
The rules of calcio storico have remained largely unchanged since the 16th century. A contemporary match lasts 50 minutes, with two teams of 27 players, known as calcianti, striving to score the most cacce (goals) on a 50-by-100 meter sand arena. Temperatures often exceed 30 degrees Celsius, and when a goal is scored, the teams switch sides. A half point is awarded to the opposing team if a player mistakenly throws the ball over the net instead of into it.
The calcianti are free to use any means necessary to score; they can kick, throw, or physically tackle opponents in their pursuit of victory. Bare-knuckle punches and kicks are permitted, contributing to an atmosphere reminiscent of ancient gladiator games. Over the years, bloodshed has occurred, not just from athletic endeavors, but also from mass brawls involving players and supporters.
In 2006, a tournament was suspended due to a massive fight, leading to criminal prosecutions. The following year’s festival was suspended to highlight the seriousness of the violence. Adjustments were made in 2008 to ensure safety, allowing only one-on-one clashes and excluding athletes with serious criminal backgrounds from participating. Nevertheless, reports persist of referees being assaulted, underscoring the challenges faced by organizers.
Interestingly, the calcianti are not paid to participate; they must be born in Florence or have resided in the city for at least a decade. The only prize for the victorious team aside from glory is a Chianina cow adorned with gold-painted horns.
Know Before You Go
The calcio storico tournament features three games: two semi-finals and a final, typically scheduled around June 24, coinciding with the celebration of Florence’s patron saint, John the Baptist. The initial matches occur during a weekend in mid-June. Despite the potentially violent nature of the game and its dramatic incidents, the event is considered safe for attendees—assuming you can acquire tickets.
Getting Tickets
This is an immensely popular event, cherished by locals and increasingly attracting attention from visitors. Tickets become available a few weeks before the event and can be purchased in person at the box office on Via delle Vecchie Carceri 1, adjacent to Le Murate. If any tickets remain after the initial sale, they may be available online.
With only 3000 seats available for the public (and an additional 1000 for guests), tickets are likely to sell out quickly. Local newspapers often announce the sale dates, providing a chance to secure yours early, with prices starting at €40.
The “Scoppio del Carro” Fireworks on Easter Sunday
The first event related to the tournament is the Scoppio del Carro, occurring each year on Easter Sunday in Piazza del Duomo. During this celebration, an ancient chariot is brought to the city’s famed square, escorted by soldiers, musicians, and flag bearers, and positioned between the Cathedral and the Baptistery.
A small rocket resembling a dove is lit, followed by fireworks symbolizing the Holy Fire—a biblical miracle preceding the resurrection. This event draws thousands to Piazza del Duomo and includes a draw to determine teams for the semifinals.
Flag Wavers and Legendary Musicians
The calcio storico tournament is not limited to the game itself; it encompasses city-wide celebrations throughout June. The inaugural match features performances by the Uffizi Flag Wavers and the Florentine Historical Procession. Approximately five hundred sbandieratori (flag wavers) dressed in medieval attire parade through the city to mark the games’ commencement.
In addition to the flag wavers, the Musici del Calcio Storico Fiorentino, Florence’s oldest musical band, has been active since the first reenactment in 1930. This group, consisting of seventy musicians, opens the celebrations with drums and flutes, parading from Santa Maria Novella to Santa Croce on match day. Their most magnificent performance occurs in Santa Croce after the final match, where they form a circle to play the Inno della Vittoria (Victory Anthem) in front of an enthusiastic audience.
After the games, a celebratory party typically ensues along the banks of the Arno river, where spectators can enjoy fireworks from various vantage points around the city.
Beyond Folklore
As Florence’s allure as a vacation spot has grown in recent years, calcio storico is frequently perceived as a tourist spectacle rather than a genuine sporting event. However, this sentiment overlooks the profound significance of the occasion. Participants dedicate extensive effort year-round to refine their skills, and enduring rivalries remain between historic neighborhoods.
A Calcio Storico Inspired Lunch
The calcio storico tradition has woven itself into Florence’s urban fabric—if visiting the city, you might consider dining at a restaurant run by former calcianti or one that pays homage to their neighborhood team. Many of these trattorias serve local delicacies paired with Chianti and rich stories of past matches.
Trattoria I’Raddi, located in the Santo Spirito neighborhood, is managed by a member of the Bianchi team, serving as a popular meeting place for players. The decor teems with references to historic tournaments, showcasing coats of arms and pictures of notable athletes.
Similarly, Trattoria I’Brindellone, an old-school eatery in the San Frediano neighborhood, features nostalgic images of illustrious calcianti, celebrating both the simplicity of Tuscan cuisine and the rich sporting tradition deeply embedded in Florence’s history.
