Abruzzo National Park: A Sanctuary for Wildlife and Nature Lovers

In Rome, tourists swarm into the ruins of ancient temples, jostle for selfies, and stand in line for restaurants. However, just two hours away, the hills and valleys are empty, offering the chance to catch a glimpse of elusive bears or wolves. This is Italy’s Abruzzo National Park, a triumph of conservation and rewilding in both Italy and Europe.

In the entire Abruzzo region, which includes the national park, just 1.3 million tourists visited in 2021. Much fewer made the journey from Abruzzo’s gorgeous coastline to the park. Therefore, outside the high summer season, it’s entirely possible to hike for a day without encountering anyone else.

Look Out for the Local Wildlife: Bears, Wolves, and Deer

Abruzzo National Park is among the best places in Italy to spot large animals, strongly positioning itself as a contender for the best in Europe. The star attraction of the park is the Marsican brown bear. Smaller and less aggressive than their North American counterparts, these bears are the icons of this area, proudly appearing on the park logo and on statues in Pescasseroli, the park’s main town.

Walking with my guide, Andreas, he described the park as a “heaven for bears” due to its abundance of food. Though these creatures are largely solitary and can be difficult to spot, signs of them are plentiful if you know where to look. Over the course of five days, Andreas pointed out tree trunks used by bears to rub against, with hairs still caught in the wood.

Italian wolves also inhabit the park, although they are somewhat contentious residents. Many farmers in the region are not keen on sharing their space with wolves. We spoke with a local farmer who had lost cattle to wolf attacks and even pointed out a calf nursing from injuries inflicted during an encounter with a wolf. Nevertheless, wolves draw fascination, particularly from urban visitors who may perceive them as less fearsome than they are. Andreas takes a balanced view: “I think the truth is something in between.”

Recent observations indicate that wolves are exhibiting less fear around humans than in the past, marking a shift in their interactions. Incidents have taken place, such as a tourist cornering a wolf along the coast. Consequently, it’s often other humans who pose a greater threat to wildlife by seeking the “perfect” photograph. Visitors who are lucky enough to spot these wild creatures frequently tell their friends, which can lead to more risks being taken for similar encounters.

Despite the long days and good weather, it can be more challenging to spot wolves in the summer, as packs tend to split. In contrast, they travel together in winter. The last wolf survey in the park estimated around 10 packs, totaling between 60 and 70 wolves.

There’s no shortage of wildlife to observe. During my visit, we were treated to spectacular displays of red deer in the early mornings. The males bellowed loudly, warning other males to keep their distance from certain females in the area. The sight of them locking horns in the morning sun was truly magnificent.

The optimal time for wildlife watching is in the early morning or at sunset. While waiting, take the opportunity to slow down and absorb the beauty of the landscape. And if nothing appears? “That’s part of the game!” jokes Andreas.

Witness a Gradual Rewilding During a Rewarding Hike

When not observing wildlife, explore nearly 150 well-marked hiking trails covering an incredible 750km (466 miles). If preferred, a full list of trails is available through local tourist offices.

However, with a bit of expert guidance, you can appreciate the gradual rewilding of the park. Intensive forest management ceased 50 years ago, but its effects are still felt today. Past attempts to optimize the land for agriculture led to wide spaces between trees for grazing animals. Now, trees are gradually closing the gaps, and Andreas estimates that, in 100 years, the park could resemble a primeval forest again. Currently, beech tree woods cover about 60% of the park.

Trekking through the park reveals nature’s slow re-encroachment, leading to reflections on what it was like in the past and what it may someday resemble. Even fallen or dead trees contribute to the ecosystem, encouraging the growth of fungi and seeds, which create micro-environments. Observing these details requires a mindset of curiosity and patience.

Stay in a Mountain Hut

During my adventure, I spent a night in Rifugio Terraegna, a mountain hut accommodating up to ten people. It featured cozy beds and limited solar-powered electricity, providing all essentials for a short stay. Our host, Valeria, prepared a delicious three-course meal, complemented by local organic red wine. Sharing stories about our favorite moments in nature added a touch of magic to our experience.

There are many rifugios (refuges or shelters) scattered throughout the park, offering varying degrees of luxury.

Indulge in Abruzzo’s Local Cuisine

While exploring, the essence of Italy comes alive at mealtime. Abruzzo is renowned for its hearty interpretations of Italian favorites. The region is particularly famous for lamb, with arrosticini (sheep skewers) being a local delicacy. Various dishes feature lamb, such as agnello cacio e ovo (lamb covered in lemon, egg, and cheese sauce) or mutton stew. Complement your meal with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, the region’s most famous wine.

Check Out the Visitor Centre and Sanctuary

Pescasseroli serves as the park’s headquarters. The Visitor Centre features a sanctuary for injured bears and various wild animals. While many displays are primarily in Italian, visitors are likely to spot animals, especially if wildlife watching has been sparse. It’s not an essential stop, but I found it a pleasant way to spend a rainy afternoon and my only sighting of a bear in the park.

How to Get to Abruzzo National Park and Where to Stay

Pescasseroli is the main town in the park, offering the most accommodations and dining options, alongside charming lanes for exploration. Should you desire to stay near the coast, Pescara is a viable option despite requiring a longer drive.

The journey from Leonardo Da Vinci airport to Pescasseroli takes about two hours. While this timeframe may be too lengthy for a day trip, it’s certainly manageable for a weekend getaway from Rome, especially for nature lovers eager to explore the park further.

For independent travelers, a car is the best means of reaching the park and accessing trailheads and prime wildlife observation locations. Bus connections from Rome are available via Prontobus to Avezzano.