Northeast England is elbows-deep in history – and nowhere is the region’s legacy more evident than in Durham.
One of Christianity’s most important saints is entombed at Durham Cathedral, making the city a pilgrimage destination for worshippers from across the globe. Moreover, Durham is also a thriving student town, characterized by a cascade of cute cobbled streets that lead down to riverside bars and the shadow of a spectacular Norman castle. Therefore, visitors come for the history – and stay for the haunted pubs, northern food, and small-town vibes.
Tour the Castle with Students
Durham Castle was built in 1072 after the Norman invasion, and in the 1800s, it was taken over by Durham University and converted into student accommodation. This unique history makes it a fascinating place to tour and one of the best things to do in Durham today – especially with a student as your guide. Over 90 minutes, you’ll get to explore a subterranean chapel featuring an unusual mermaid relief, browse Civil War artifacts, and hear how the university selects which student gets the room in the keep’s gatehouse each year. Originally constructed to protect the Normans from disgruntled locals, the castle’s defensive position – surrounded by cliffs that drop into a fast-moving river – makes it a spectacular focal point for the modern city.
Look for Harry Potter in the Cathedral Cloisters
One of Durham’s most popular attractions is the arched cloisters of Durham Cathedral, used as a set for the first two Harry Potter films over 20 years ago. The cathedral’s Chapter House (accessible only through a keyhole) served as a set for a classroom scene with Professor McGonagall, while items from the cathedral’s museum collection became props in the films. Settle in for a coffee at the cafe on the western side of the cloisters and look out for fans dressed up in wizarding cloaks on the hunt for the perfect selfie.
Stroll Durham’s Riverwalk
Since Durham isn’t a particularly large city (population 50,000) and the city center is surrounded on three sides by the River Wear, it’s easy to feel like you’re in the countryside along certain stretches of the waterfront. Strolling around the city center’s teardrop-shaped peninsula via the Riverwalk loop showcases the city’s leafy side and is one of the best free activities in town. The trail is lined with mature trees and passes several of Durham’s college boathouses, where rowers often practice with their crews.
Climb the Cathedral Tower
There are 325 steps to the top of Durham Cathedral’s central tower, wound like a tightly coiled spring around dizzying spiral staircases. The climb is not for the faint-hearted; however, the 360-degree views from the top are unparalleled, showing the old city spread out like a model. Although Durham Cathedral dates back to the 1100s, the tower was rebuilt around the beginning of the 16th century after damage from successive lightning strikes. Some of the most interesting views from atop the tower reveal the cathedral’s footprint surrounding the base of the viewing platform.
Go in Search of St. Cuthbert
No one was more revered in the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria than Cuthbert, the 7th-century saint credited with spreading Christianity across northern England. His body is interred at Durham Cathedral, making it one of England’s most sacred pilgrimage sites. Pay your respects at his hushed shrine behind the High Altar before visiting the museum’s St. Cuthbert exhibition, which includes remnants of the coffin in which he was laid to rest in 698 CE, as well as the gold-and-garnet pectoral cross he was entombed with.
Get Arty at Fowlers Yard
Hidden beneath Milburngate Bridge beside the River Wear, Fowlers Yard is a well-preserved cobbled street now being developed as Durham’s arts quarter. You’ll find the City Theatre here, along with Leonard’s Coffee House (ideal for brunch) – but the real draw are the nine creative workspaces occupying the old stables and warehouses. Tapestry weaving, wool spinning, jewelry design, print making, and hand embroidery are among the arts on display. If you’re lucky, you might catch the artists at work as you browse the workshops.
Take Tea with Locals at Durham Indoor Market
If you enjoy a good rummage, then don’t miss Durham’s old-fashioned covered market, where independent traders offer everything from secondhand music to specialty teas. The market hall was built in 1851; however, much of its original Victorian charm remains, giving it a unique bazaar-like feel. Don’t miss the mezzanine Cafe Cenno, where local patrons gather to people-watch while enjoying refreshments.
Follow the Vennels for Hyper-Local Food
Old Durham is full of tiny alleyways and side passages known as “vennels” – a term specific to parts of Scotland and the Northeast. These back streets provide a fascinating behind-the-scenes look at the city center and lead to some of Durham’s most atmospheric dining spots. One local favorite is Vennels Cafe, named after the narrow passage that leads to its lovely outdoor courtyard terrace.
According to local lore, it was here in 1720 that Mrs. Clements created the recipe for the first English mustard. Nowadays, locals and visitors flock here for delicious scones and giant wedges of homemade quiche. For an upscale experience with historic ambiance, consider Cellar Door, an alleyway restaurant inside a 13th-century cellar conversion featuring a secret riverside terrace. The restaurant specializes in modern British cuisine, sourced wherever possible from within a 1-mile radius or foraged from nearby woods.
Sample Gins at One of the Smallest Bars Around
Once a hog-roast takeout joint, and before that a juice bar, Tin of Sardines is now Durham’s smallest drinking establishment. Situated on the edge of Durham’s 12th-century Elvet Bridge, this bar features outdoor terrace seating during sunny days; however, the indoor atmosphere is particularly engaging, where patrons can enjoy riverside views and explore a wide selection of international gins. The barman creatively climbs a ladder to retrieve bottles from shelves that reach the ceiling.
Another interesting venue nearby is Old Tom’s Gin Bar, showcasing over 250 gins in a wood-beamed house boasting an eclectic decor style.
Admire the Specimens at Durham’s Botanic Garden
Dating back to the 1920s, Durham’s Botanic Garden was originally established by the university as an experimental garden. Fast forward nearly 100 years, and the gardens remain owned by Durham University, used to support teaching and research across 25 acres. Visitors can wander through mature woodlands, enjoy spring bluebells, experience a Carboniferous Garden created by earth science students, and explore several outdoor sculptures scattered throughout the grounds.
