Discover the Night Riviera Sleeper Train to Cornwall
Want to skip the traffic on your next visit to beautiful Cornwall? Hop on the Night Riviera sleeper train from London Paddington.
Not far from midnight, London’s Paddington station is settling down for the night. The final commuter services to the Thames Valley are taking on their mix of late-staying evening workers and post-party revelers. Beneath Brunel’s soaring curves of white-painted metal and glass, food stalls are shutting down. Paddington Bear himself, cast in bronze near the spot where he first arrived in London, stands ever-ready for an adventure.
Just past our ursine hero’s statue on platform 1, however, a little-known adventure is readying itself to stealthily creep southwest on its nightly mission. Every night of the week except Saturdays, the Night Riviera heads from London to Penzance, the main town of West Cornwall and 11 miles from Lands End. At this railhead, Britain fizzles out into the roaring waves of the Atlantic Ocean.
The 255-mile (410 km) route takes eight hours by night – almost three hours more than day trains, allowing passengers a good snooze. While it is the (much) slower option, the Night Riviera has endured since Victorian times. It remains one of the two services in the UK that have survived into today’s era of fresh enthusiasm for sleeper trains.
Another Way to Get to Beautiful Cornwall
The benefits of this journey extend beyond nostalgia. Cornwall is one of the UK’s most beautiful areas, featuring golden beaches, seaside villages linked by dramatically picturesque cliff walks, rocky, wave-bashed coves, and haunted upland moors straight out of Poldark. The region boasts a distinct history and identity, including its own language, which is enjoying a revival. Cornwall also represents a central point in the conversation about overtourism in the UK, where scarce housing stock is coveted by owners of second homes and vacation-property businesses.
As anyone who’s visited will attest, many visitors drive down clogged motorways to smaller A and B roads, only to battle for space in crowded parking lots. Fortunately, a lesser-known alternative exists: this British night train.
On board the Night Riviera
At the head of the Night Riviera carriages, looking and sounding every inch like a villain from Thomas the Tank Engine, is Totnes Castle, a no-nonsense diesel engine. Behind this green beast come an eclectic variety of carriages, including one with ample space for bikes, which can be booked in advance for free.
Unlike the six-berth couchettes and four-bunk sleepers that dominate European trains, most of the Night Riviera consists of two-berth sleepers. If the passenger has opted for sole occupancy, the top bunk is put away. These compartments feature a window, sink, luggage space, and are locked by a key card, which is provided by an attendant. Those essential amenities – water and Wi-Fi – are also available. Sleeper berth passengers enjoy access to the lounge at Paddington, and showers can be taken upon arrival in Penzance.
This service not only caters to sleepers; two seated carriages were well utilized on my trip. A sleeper ticket grants access to the lounge car, the social hub of the train. While some snacks and soft drinks are provided free, many travelers enjoyed something stronger for a nightcap while discussing the journey.
As boarding started around 10:30pm, many passengers were fast asleep by the scheduled 11:45 departure time. I dozed off immediately as the train started moving. Thanks to the direct nature of the Night Riviera service, I experienced the best sleep of any night route in recent memory, waking up as we crossed the Royal Albert Bridge, connecting Devon and Cornwall since 1859.
After indulging in a tempting breakfast bacon roll with a view in my compartment, I returned to the lounge car, where I found a congenial atmosphere as the crew, who appeared unhurried and friendly, explained their work routine, which starts in Penzance.
Waking up on the Cornish Coast
Once in Cornwall, the Night Riviera frequently stops, efficiently connecting to branches that radiate out to useful destinations for car-free visitors. The surf mecca of Newquay can be reached with a change at Par, and from Truro, the county’s only city, a line meanders away to Falmouth, the gateway to the scenic Roseland Peninsula.
In the lounge, two off-duty train drivers were debating their upcoming exploration plans of the region. It was tempting to join their conversation.
As we approached Penzance, the views over Mount’s Bay and the tidal island topped with a castle and church, St Michael’s Mount, showcased the area’s natural beauty. For many passengers, however, this was just the beginning of their journey. A short stroll from the station leads to the departure quay for the Scillonian, which ferries passengers to the Isles of Scilly, a car-free archipelago.
After taking in the vibrant hubbub throughout the station, I ended my journey at Penzance by enjoying the coastal atmosphere around the Jubilee Pool, a vast seawater lido that offers a unique swimming experience. With a picturesque view of the surroundings, I settled at the café, content in knowing I had found a special entry point to Cornwall without the hassle of traffic jams.
How to Make It Happen
Twin-occupancy cabins on the Night Riviera cost between £32 and £75.50, with single occupancy options available from £42.50 to £100.50 one way. Seats on night and day services start at £43. To secure the best fares, it is advisable to plan ahead and travel during off-peak times.
