Discover the Hidden Gem: Why You Must Visit Cévennes National Park

Majestic eagles and vultures, steep limestone gorges, and expansive steppe grasslands of breathtaking beauty serve as habitats for endangered Przewalski’s horses, resembling ancient cave paintings, alongside the elusive forms of wolves. It is astonishing how accessible this genuine wilderness is, located near the coastal regions and cities of Southern France.

For those eager to explore the unspoiled regions of France without venturing into high mountains, a journey towards Florac in the heart of Cévennes National Park is recommended. Engage in invigorating hikes that showcase the park’s stunning landscapes and diverse wildlife. Visit its museums to reflect on significant historical struggles for religious freedom, and witness the enduring traditions of local farmers and their goats, resiliently interacting with the rugged environment for centuries.

As day transitions into night, traverse through the chestnut forests, listening for the voices of the “phantoms of the forests” beneath the vast canopy of stars in Europe’s largest dark sky reserve. Unique experiences await at Cévennes National Park – here’s how to navigate your visit and maximize your activities upon arrival.

Experience the rhythm of ancient farming life

Amidst the sounds of goat bells resonating from the hillside and agile sheepdogs skillfully working alongside Cévénol farmers, one feels a connection to generations past. The park owes its UNESCO designation to its 3000-year-old agro-pastoralism tradition, a living representation of an evolving cultural landscape. Participate in this legacy by herding goats, assisting with milking, and crafting cheese at one of France’s oldest eco-museums and the Farm des Cévennes. From June through September, a wide array of additional farms open their doors to visitors.

Do not overlook the transhumance, a seasonal migration of livestock between summer and winter pastures, occurring in early June in Espérou. This location hosts one of the final occasions where shepherds usher their flocks on foot (rather than utilizing trucks) along ancient paths, known as drailles, that traverse through the park. The captivating scene of hundreds of sheep, adorned with red pom-poms and accompanied by lively music and delectable food, is a spectacle to behold.

Hike through wilderness and history

The park features over 5000 km of trails of varying lengths, including 300 one-day hikes that offer breathtaking views of the Mediterranean plains, accessible from both Mount Lozère and Mount Aigoual. Alternatively, embark on one of the numerous circuits lasting 2-3 days along dramatic gorges, where the sight of soaring vultures will enchant you. For idyllic walks suitable for all family members, explore the sentiers de decouverte, Interpretative Trails, which delve into local heritage, geology, and botany while featuring menhirs and birdwatching.

Several of France’s long-distance GR trails traverse the park. The most renowned follows the journey of Robert Louis Stevenson and his donkey from Puy en Velay towards the Mediterranean. Wander through heath-like hills adorned with blossoming wildflowers, and discover secluded valleys embracing tranquil stone villages, each harboring stories from a rich history. Pont-de-Montvert, located near the source of the Tarn River, stands out for its preservation and intriguing historical significance. Stevenson’s account, Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes, is a valuable companion for your journey. This location also marks the onset of the Camisard War in 1702.

Plunge into the history of religious rebels

The rugged hills of the Cévennes were a backdrop for a significant chapter in European history when Protestant Cévenol peasants, known as camisards, revolted following Louis XIV’s 1685 revocation of Protestant religious freedoms. Armed conflict ensued from 1702 to 1704, leading to the devastation of numerous villages across the region.

Immerse yourself in the narrative of religious freedom and oppression at the Musée du Désert, situated in the residence of the notable camisard leader, Rolland, also recognized as Pierre Laporte. Although the exhibits are primarily in French, an English translation pamphlet is available. Experience the past as you tour a typical kitchen and bedroom from that era, adorned with artwork depicting secret congregations in the forests and caves. Within the museum, behold the concealed pulpits and a collection of forbidden bibles.

Take a moment to reflect at a wall that chronicles the names of Huguenots who shaped history through the arduous documentation of every individual sent to the galleys and the circumstances of their demise. Be inspired by accounts of the women who remained unwavering in their faith, some incarcerated near Montpellier for decades, while one of them diligently penned letters from prison over 37 years. The museum profoundly reshapes one’s understanding of the concepts of freedom and character strength.

For further exploration of the region’s history, visit the coal mining museum located in the post-industrial town of La Grand’Combe or the museum dedicated to the silk industry in Saint-Hippolyte-du-Fort.

Spot vultures, wild horses and listen for the roar

The park is home to a notably rich diversity of plant and animal species, attributed to its varied landscapes and climates. Prior to your visit, take time to explore the park’s comprehensive atlas, which features essential information, including soundtracks and maps of recent wildlife sightings.

At the Maison des Vautours, enjoy the stunning panoramic view of the Jonte Gorge and learn about the successful reintroduction of vultures. Look up to observe their graceful circlets, along with falcons and possibly the majestic royal eagle. To ground your experience further, visit Micropolis, situated just outside the park, where you can delve into the fascinating world of insects.

Journey into the expansive Causse Méjean for a unique chance to observe Przewalski’s horses, the only breed of horses that have never been domesticated. Once extinct in the wild during the 1960s, these horses have been freed here to adapt before their forthcoming reintroduction to the Mongolian steppes.

During September and October, bring a flashlight and embrace the twilight hours on Mont Aigoual, listening for the “phantoms of the forest.” No experience can compare to the sensation of traversing hills under the cover of darkness while hearing the thunderous roars of stags during their mating season. Numerous organizations facilitate outings, including the Maison de l’Aigoual.

Star-gaze in Europe’s biggest International Dark Sky Reserve

Ascend to the summits of Mount Aigoual or Mount Lozère at sunset to witness breathtaking views that extend toward the sea and the Pyrenees. When night falls, pay attention to the sounds of fluttering bats and the calls of owls, while marveling at the vast expanse of stars overhead.

If your visit coincides with August, be on the lookout for the annual Perseid meteor shower. For avid stargazers, there are organized hiking excursions led by an astrophysicist, and a guesthouse has tailored a stay focused on star-gazing, offering telescopes and introductions to constellations.

Travel out of time underground

While not strictly within the park, a visit to the Demoiselles Cave is worthwhile if you are approaching from the southeast. Guided tours allow access to Europe’s first underground tourist funicular. Prepare to be astonished by an immense cavern resembling a cathedral, adorned with stalactites and stalagmites that have formed over millennia into extraordinary stone forests, petrified mushroom clouds, and hanging daggers.

What and where to eat in Cévennes National Park

The inhabitants of Cévennes once relied on the sustenance of chestnuts, termed the “bread tree,” for survival during lean periods. They can be purchased at markets either preserved in jars, roasted over coals, or savored in Cévenol soup, enriched with cream. Be sure to attend the Chestnut Festivals in Lasalle and Anduze during autumn, where passionate chestnut aficionados create a vibrant spectacle.

The region is also renowned for pelardon, a goat cheese exclusively produced in the Cévennes, available in small rounds ranging from fresh and creamy to matured and crumbly. This cheese pairs exquisitely with a fresh baguette and local honey.

Local markets offer an excellent opportunity to acquire the park’s finest products. A notable example is the expansive market in Lasalle, where residents descend from remote valleys to socialize with friends.

One of the delights in the Cévennes is the unexpected discovery of restaurants and bars nestled within isolated villages, as newcomers infuse new life into the area and skillfully utilize local products with French culinary artistry, exemplified in establishments like the Balade Gourmande in the quaint village of Soudorgues.

How to get there

The appeal of the Cévennes lies in its seclusion, yet this aspect complicates accessibility. The most viable option is to drive from either Montpellier or Nîmes. Be prepared for narrow and winding roads, where distances should be measured in time rather than kilometers. The challenging access necessitates extending your visit to at least 2-3 days or longer to appreciate one area fully.

Permanent bus routes are scarce; however, summer brings additional shuttle services (navettes/cars). Due to the variance in information across towns and villages, consult the specific tourist office website for your intended locality, contact them directly, or review the Occitan transport website. Ensure the timetables you reference are current, as they are subject to change during different seasons, public holidays, or weekends.

Where to stay in Cévennes National Park

For accommodations and dining options, consider larger, tourist-oriented areas such as Florac, St Jean du Gard, or Anduze, particularly near Mount Lozère, which offers a ski resort suitable for winter travelers.

Numerous smaller villages feature Airbnbs, and those along popular hiking trails often have gîte d’étape guesthouses. For a more authentic experience away from tourist crowds and with limited amenities, explore Le Pont-de-Montvert, Le Bleymard, or Sainte Croix Vallée Française. Should you wish to stay for a week, investigate rural guesthouses.

Campsites are plentiful, especially alongside the scenic Mialet and Tarn rivers, which can become quite busy during the summer months.

Other planning tips

The plethora of websites and tourist offices concerning the park can be confusing, as they correspond to different administrative regions. Many villages maintain their own tourist information offices.

To streamline your planning, choose the geographic area of interest and locate the corresponding tourist website or office. Notable resources cover the Causses et Gorges, surrounding Mount Lozère, and the southern edges. The park itself hosts a comprehensive information website and a planning platform, with three park offices located in Florac, Aigoual, and Génolhac.

In terms of weather, be vigilant for épisodes cévenols, periods of exceptionally heavy rains generally occurring in autumn, potentially leading to flooding and complicating travel.

Many park attractions and amenities alter their schedules or close entirely during winter months, hence, it is advisable to verify operations prior to your visit.