Laura Motta, senior director of content at GoTravelDaily, shares a snapshot of a dreamy – and ski-free! – winter trip to Vail, Colorado. Here’s what to see, do, and eat in this mountain paradise.
I don’t ski. I don’t particularly like winter or cold weather. I have lived most of my life a mere gasp above sea level. So why Vail? Well, like so many decisions in life and travel…it’s complicated.
For one thing, I was itchy for a solo winter getaway but feeling uninspired by warm-weather destinations. Moreover, I envisioned a trip where I could go full-on Hallmark holiday movie – without having to give up my city life for a guy who owns some Christmas-tree farm. And of course, there was the figure skating.
A fan of the sport since I was a kid, I remember watching skating exhibitions live from Vail on ESPN in the nineties, when it enjoyed a kind of post–Nancy Kerrigan/Tonya Harding golden age. I wanted to see this show live. I wanted to visit this mysteriously pretty winter wonderland called Vail.
It took me a few years to fulfill my childhood dreams, but I did get to Vail eventually. Given how well the town does things like après-ski and spa treatments, I’m glad I waited. And yes – there was plenty of skating.
I started my day in Vail by…
Taking in the view. I stayed in Vail Village, the nerve center of the town, which sprawls in a curving line along a mountain valley. I bundled up and strolled the snow-covered streets, which are easily walkable as long as you have weather-appropriate clothing and footwear. Postcard-perfect scenery is everywhere, so you don’t exactly have to look far to find a view. Consequently, the snow-covered Rockies form the backdrop for the entire village, and you’ll find plenty of photo opportunities along the brick-paved streets.
Restaurants warmed by fireplaces, alpine architecture, and bridges over half-frozen creeks are truly the stuff of cable TV holiday fare – yet nature’s charm easily surpassed the magic of the moves (and that’s before we consider the real, actual snow). There are plenty of inviting shops too, even if many sell the kind of clothes that are only fit for vacation impulse buying and not practical daily wear. Pack wisely.
I didn’t rent a car for any part of my stay. In fact, one isn’t necessary if you plan on sticking to Vail. Yet if you’re really feeling lazy as you soak in Vail’s atmosphere, simply look out your hotel window. I woke up on December 24 to golf-ball-sized snowflakes drifting past my window. And I didn’t even have to change out of my pajamas.
In Vail you must…
Go skiing. Or, if you’re me, don’t.
I will leave the tutorials on planning the perfect adrenaline-pumping ski getaway to my expert colleagues; my goal in Vail was simply to unplug and relax. It was also to figure out if I could embrace a cold-weather getaway – something I would not have thought was in my travel vocabulary just a few years ago. None of this involved putting on a pair of skis.
Instead, I sought out cozy fireside spots where I could sit with a hot beverage, enjoyed my hotel’s heated indoor swimming pool, and settled into a seat at the bar where I could chat with the bartender and other patrons. Several of these situations even included snacks.
Time these experiences to around 3 or 4pm in the afternoon, and they fall into the category of “après-ski” – the loosely organized rituals of eating, drinking, hot-tubbing, and socializing after long, strenuous hours on the slopes. Good news: you need not have had to actually hit the slopes to participate. Many restaurants and bars offer happy hour-style menus with small plates and discounted drinks.
My favorite afternoon spot was the Slope Room. Hung with modern crystal chandeliers and featuring an ornately carved fireplace at one end of the bar, the space feels elegant yet inviting. You should definitely sit at the bar, as I did, enjoying a crafted cocktail and the smoked-trout dip.
The one item I recommend bringing to Vail is…
Your best ski bunny gear. Dressing for the weather is important here. (It was 6°F during my visit.) However, dressing to meet the aesthetic of the supremely sporty but well-heeled crowds in town is equally essential.
Do you have form-clinging fleece? Alpine pattern sweaters? Furry earmuffs? Pack all of it, and leave your heels at home – not just because you’ll be the only person wearing them, but because you’ll slip on the ice on your way to dinner.
In Vail, I stayed at…
The Sonnenalp. There are sleeker, more modern resorts in this very fancy resort town, but that’s not the point. While others deliver cool color palettes and stark contemporary décor, the Sonnenalp is a cozy throwback. Modeled after a German mountain lodge, this family-owned property is adorned with dark-stained wood, grass-green bedding, and plenty of decorative antlers. What’s more, its location in the heart of Vail Village makes it a perfect place to stay if you’re determined to go carless.
I spent most of my time here lazing by the fireplace in the stone-and-stucco spa area, and popping in and out of the heated indoor-outdoor pool and the hot tubs. A truly excellent Swedish massage was perfect for wringing out my city-sore muscles.
In the evening, the hotel’s lobby bar hosts live music and becomes a bit of a scene. Arrive early to get a seat by the fire.
In Vail, the best spot for lunch is…
The Red Lion. Unpretentious and specializing in huge portions, this Vail classic serves up burgers, beers, and overflowing plates of chicken fingers. Many patrons walk directly off the slopes and head here, skis slung over their shoulders. It’s just a few steps from the base of the mountain.
To give you a sense of the vibes here, consider the bartender’s advice as I faced down an intimidating mountain of pulled-pork nachos: “Cut into it like a cake.”
Like everything else on this winter getaway, it worked.
In Vail, I soaked up the winter ambiance at…
The Vail Skating Festival. The town has hosted this multi-day event for years, attracting major talent. This year’s headliners included 2022 Olympic gold medalist Nathan Chen and bronze medalists Mirai Nagasu. However, the real magic of this event is the venues.
The outdoor ice rink in the heart of Vail Village offers no formal or ticketed seating. There are only comfy rink-side loungers that you can commandeer, some of which are situated by gas fireplaces. Settle in here as I did: with a hot salted caramel-apple cider from a local coffee shop situated directly behind the rink. If you’re feeling especially inspired, you can rent skates and take to the ice after the Olympians depart.
The festival’s main venue, Dobson Ice Arena, is also located in Vail Village and seats around 2,500 people. There are even seats situated directly on the ice if you want an especially intimate view of the action.
