The new Lumo train offering low-price competition between London and Edinburgh makes accessing Scotland a fast, affordable breeze. Instead of heading to the Highlands, aim for the Borders and other areas of Southern Scotland to learn more about the country’s history and famous residents like writer Robert Burns.
A new cycle route from Stranraer to Eyemouth planned for 2023 looks set to open up a whole swathe of little-known countryside for two-wheeled exploration. With the debate regarding Scottish independence showing no sign of cooling, exploring the borderlands is a great way to contemplate the future of the entire UK as well.
Why You Should Visit Southern Scotland
I’m thrilled to introduce Southern Scotland’s greatest underdog, a place to take a breather from the Highlands and the Isle of Skye, shifting away from the common mass tourist trail. By heading toward the southern end of Scotland, you’ll embark on an epic clockwise journey from coast to coast, through the Borders and Dumfries and Galloway. You will discover charming towns and villages, storybook countryside, dramatic cliffs, lonely lighthouses, outdoor pursuits, historic treasures, and starry skies. This surprisingly overlooked region lies south of the country’s main cities – the opposite direction of where most visitors gravitate. And that’s exactly why you should go.
Cliffs, Seals, and Seafood
Set off early from the capital city of Edinburgh and head straight to the Berwickshire Coast, where picturesque St Abbs awaits. Initiate yourself with a bracing blast of fresh sea air on a walk around St Abb’s Head National Nature Reserve, known for its abundant bird life, dramatic coastline, and cliff-top lighthouse.
Enjoy lobster rolls and delicious cullen skink (a traditional smoked-fish soup) at the harborside Ebbcarrs Cafe. Afterward, take a one-hour high-speed cruise with Riptide Rib Rides St Abb, or follow the coastal path to sandy Coldingham Bay, with its rows of colorful beach huts.
Drive 10 minutes along the coast to the popular seaside town of Eyemouth – and look out for adorable gray seals in the harbor, eagerly awaiting their next snack from the nearby fish van. Check into your accommodation for the night, the Ship’s Quarters, a historic guesthouse right by the water.
For dinner, it has to be (weather permitting) alfresco fish and chips followed by ice cream at Giacopazzi’s. If the skies are overcast, The Heathers Restaurant at Eyemouth Golf Club offers seafood and (indoor) sea views. Finish the day with a stroll along the beach in Eyemouth, listening to the gentle lap of the waves in a town now quiet after the day-trippers have moved on.
Historic Abbeys, Cute Shops, and Countryside
Venture inland to the richly historic Borders towns and villages, which blend beautifully into the gentle countryside. Drive for 45 minutes, then stop in Kelso for a coffee at The Cream Chimneys, and browse the independent shops at Kelso Sq, where cattle were once tethered to the Old Bull Ring at its center. The ruins of Kelso Abbey, one of four iconic abbeys in the region, lie just off the square.
Back in the car, continue for another 20 minutes to the charming town of Jedburgh, home to another 12th-century abbey. For a quick history fix, visit Jedburgh Castle Jail and the Mary, Queen of Scots’ Visitor Centre to learn about the colorful life of Scotland’s only queen and her time in the town. Don’t leave without stopping for lunch or outstanding baked treats at Naked Sourdough.
A further 20-minute drive leads to Abbotsford House, the grand former home of legendary writer and poet Sir Walter Scott. Celebrated for his extensive travels in Scotland, and for romanticizing the Highlands and West Coast in his works, Scott filled this house with historic and often curious wonders. Top off your history-filled day with a cozy dinner at the friendly Red Lion Pub in Earlston, which began life as a coaching inn in the 1800s.
Romans, Hills, and Local Produce
Enjoy a day of fresh air and fantastic food in the Borders town of Melrose. Start by fueling up with coffee and brunch at the local cafe Apples for Jam, before visiting Trimontium Museum, which tells the story of the vast Roman fort site discovered nearby. Afterward, head for the hills.
The Eildon Hills are a trio of summits accessed via paths from the town center. Reaching a maximum height of 1723ft (525m), the ascent is steep but highly rewarding. Climbing one, two, or all three hills gives you the chance to breathe in sweeping views leading back down to the town and rural landscapes beyond.
Back in town, visit Melrose Abbey and Priorwood Garden, then browse the charming small businesses: Ticketty Boo for cards, gifts, and artwork; Love Scottish for homeware; and Abbey Fine Wines for a souvenir bottle of gin or whisky. End the day with outstanding seasonal produce at the cozy Burts Hotel on Market Sq.
Trails, Trees, and a Giant Map
Keep up your immersion in history and scenery by focusing today’s adventure around Peebles and the Upper Tweed Valley area. First, travel 45 minutes to visit Traquair House, the oldest continually inhabited house in Scotland, visited by 27 Scottish kings and queens. Join a guided tour of the house, visit the still-active brewery, and discover the ancient woodland and vast maze that lie on the grounds.
Drive a further 15 minutes to Peebles to explore the town center while stocking up on local goodies for a picnic lunch: award-winning pork pies from Forsyths of Peebles; bread and sweet treats from The Fat Batard Bakery; and sandwiches, salads, and sausage rolls from Coltman’s Deli.
Spend the afternoon in nature by choosing your preferred activity. You can take a stroll around Dawyck Botanic Garden, or hike through Cardrona Forest – home to red squirrels and an abundance of wildlife. If you feel more active, hire bikes from Tweed Valley Bike Hire and hit the 7 Stanes Mountain-Biking trails with Glentress Forest, or swing and zip-line at Go Ape.
Discover Dumfries & Galloway
Bid farewell to the Borders as you travel into the southwest region of Dumfries and Galloway. Get off to a scenic start in the Moffat Hills, with a hike to Grey Mare’s Tail, a stunning 197ft (60m) waterfall, and hidden Loch Skeen beyond. Afterward, stop for a full Scottish breakfast in Moffat, before taking a detour to visit Scotland’s highest village and the historic lead mines at Wanlockhead.
Travel next to Newton Stewart on the outskirts of Galloway Forest Park, which became the UK’s first International Dark Sky Park in 2009. Check in for a two-night stay at a cozy wigwam lodge or luxury cabin at Wigtown Wigwams, and enjoying a relaxing evening under the stars.
Burns and Stargazing
Begin the day in Wigtown, Scotland’s first “National Book Town.” This village is a haven with multiple book-related businesses. Grab a hot drink and a delightful cake before continuing your journey toward Dumfries, home to Scotland’s most famous wordsmith, Robert Burns. Visit Burns House, have a meal at the Globe Inn, and look for his statue in the town square.
Drive to the peaceful Isle of Whithorn for dinner at The Steam Packet Inn, where you’ll sample local delicacies in a cozy setting overlooking the harbor before concluding your journey with an evening of stargazing.
The Final Coastal Drive
An hour’s drive away is Scotland’s most southwesterly point, the jaw-droppingly dramatic Mull of Galloway. Enjoy a meal at Gallie Craig, a clifftop coffee shop with breathtaking views, and tour the iconic Mull of Galloway Lighthouse. From the balcony, enjoy panoramic sights extending to Northern Ireland, Cumbria, and the Isle of Man.
Work your way back up the peninsula, visiting the quirky Port Logan Fish Pond, then see the Logan Botanic Garden filled with exotic plants. Follow the Ayrshire Coast north, wrapping up your tour with a visit to the magnificent Culzean Castle, famous for its striking architecture and lovely coastal gardens.
The city of Glasgow lies just over an hour away, marking the last leg of this unforgettable South Scotland circuit.
