The beauty of Nova Scotia, Canada, can’t be confined to one town. The best way to experience the postcard-perfect communities that dot its shores is by taking a journey, driving between seaside villages.
My name is Dean Petty, and I feel extremely lucky to call Nova Scotia home. I originally moved here for university 18 years ago, and it immediately felt like I belonged here. After bouncing my way through a surfing career and various odd jobs, I now own a few small businesses including a coffee roastery, a few pizza shops, a cafe, and a design company.
I really love my work and couldn’t imagine living anywhere else. Nova Scotia has all my favorite things: great surfing, yummy food, awesome fishing, wonderful humans, and beautiful coastline—the list goes on and on. With a little luck, you’ll get to experience the magic, too.
Why You Should Visit Nova Scotia
Nova Scotia is a wonderfully authentic corner of the world. It offers the perfect balance of stunning natural beauty paired with gritty, amazing people and plenty of fun activities. The magical “grounded-ness” of this place is kind of indescribable. It’s just good Ol’ Nova Scotia.
To really experience Halifax and explore the more remote corners of the province, I’d suggest carving out seven to ten days to take it all in. It’s worth traveling slowly here: taking your time, brushing elbows with locals, soaking up the beauty, and truly enjoying the experience.
You might do best by leaving much of your journey through Nova Scotia unscripted. There are tons of places to pull off and chill out while enjoying a gorgeous view. This is one of those places where the “no-plan plan” might be your best plan.
Begin Your Journey in Halifax
Wake up to a beautiful sunrise surf check. Assuming it’s flat, you can head out paddle boarding—or just venture into town for breakfast.
I would humbly recommend my cafe Two if By Sea as the perfect spot for a morning cappuccino and a massively delicious croissant. My roastery next door, Anchored Coffee, provides the beans for the coffee served inside. We like to keep it in the family.
After breakfast, grab a bike and head to the Salt Marsh Trail in Cow Bay—a flat and cruisy gravel trail with a lot of nature to enjoy. If you’re up for it, ride along the trail from Cow Bay to Lawrencetown (just make sure you bring some bug spray for the mosquitos).
After burning off all that butter and caffeine, head to Rainbow Haven Beach for a quick post-ride dip in the refreshing North Atlantic.
For lunch, you have endless options, but when I have a friend in town, it’s straight to John’s Lunch in Woodside, where you’ll find some of the freshest, most down-and-dirty fried seafood around. No bells and whistles—just delicious fried food from the sea.
Looking for a lighter option? Check out my pizza joint Yeah Yeah Pizza (locations on Ochterloney St in Dartmouth or Barrington St). I recommend grabbing a slice and Caesar salad. While you’re there, draw on a plate and stick it to the wall to leave your mark.
For dinner, I recommend The Narrows Public House for some hearty Nova Scotia comfort food. Enjoy options like fried pepperoni, potted smoked mackerel, and hot chicken and stuffing in one of the coziest vibes in the city.
Move Inland to the Annapolis Valley
Now that you’ve enjoyed the coastline, head into the Annapolis Valley for a completely different vibe, landscape, and microclimate. As you drive, take it slow, stopping at family-run farmers’ markets and produce stands along the way. If antiques interest you, there are plenty of funky shops worth exploring, such as Country Barn Antiques, which offers five floors of nostalgia filled with knickknacks and treasures.
Fun fact: the Valley has some of the highest tides in the world, creating pristine tidal banks perfect for mud sliding. I recommend heading to the Avondale Wharf for some of the fastest mud and the friendliest locals. Pro-mud sliding tip: bring towels and fresh water to rinse off—you will get muddy!
After a break to clean up, enjoy a mellow evening at the family-owned vineyard Lightfoot & Wolfville. With a fantastic food menu and delicious wines, it’s the perfect spot to watch the sunset while learning about the special wines produced in the Annapolis Valley.
Hop Between the Beautiful Seaside Towns of the South Shore
Next, we’re headed out to explore the beautiful seaside towns of the South Shore. When you think of Nova Scotia, an image of a lighthouse probably pops into your head—the one at Peggy’s Cove might be the prettiest in the province. While it can be a bit touristy, you’ll see why the moment you arrive in this quaint fishing village, complete with big granite slabs sloping into the ocean. It’s breathtakingly beautiful. (Tip: this is a great place to grab a frozen treat; I recommend stopping at Central Smith Ice Cream.)
Further down the road is Lunenburg, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you think it looks cute enough to be on a postcard, go into any gift shop and confirm your feelings. Lunenburg exemplifies a vibrant fishing town and boasts some incredible restaurants.
The best way to enjoy the town is from the sea. Hop on a boat with Walter Flower; not only will you get that Instagram-perfect photo of Lunenburg, but you’ll also see cool sea life like whales, seals, and the odd shark.
Once back on shore, visit The Knot Pub for a post-boating bite and pint. This is a classic Maritime-style watering hole with cold pints, simple and delicious food, and great people—what more could you ask for?
For a comfortable and peaceful stay, check out Ivy House, a boutique inn in Lunenburg that opened in 2019 with three elegant suites. The owner, Tara, describes the decor as “tastefully modern, Scandinavian with a pinch of coastal.” It’s a lovely spot to rest after a long day along the water.
