Notable Chinese Fashion Designers Redefining the Industry
Among the most established Chinese designers is Guo Pei, who designed Rihanna’s striking dress at the recent Met Gala. She has been creating over-the-top custom creations since the late 1990s, including 280 looks shown at the 2008 Beijing Olympics opening ceremony.
Emerging International Success: Uma Wang
Williams believes Shanghai-based designer Uma Wang, who shows her collections at Milan Fashion Week, will likely be the first Chinese designer to find major success in the West. “She’s taking it very slow, but focuses all her attentions on the materials, and I think that’s what’s really key,” Williams says. “She has a very strong aesthetic. She’s bringing in a little bit of a Chinese look, but it’s also catering to the Western market.”
Innovative Fashion: Ryan Lo
Ryan Lo is one of London’s most acclaimed young designers. His work is unabashedly feminine, kitschy, and generally over-the-top.
Unique Design Philosophy: Ban Xiao Xue
Ban Xiao Xue was a finalist for the International Woolmark Prize for China in 2012. His primary motive is to replicate natural forms. “All living things have their particular color, texture and structure, and what I do is just make records,” he told Williams.
Modern Aesthetics: Masha Ma
Masha Ma, who has an MA in womenswear from the prestigious Central Saint Martins fashion college in London, splits her time between Shanghai and Paris. In 2013, she took part in the CDFA/Vogue Fashion Fund China Exchange Program to learn from the best of the American fashion industry.
Cutting-Edge Design: Haizhen Wang
Haizhen Wang’s structured tailoring and androgynous silhouettes earned him the Fashion Fringe award (a business development award for cutting edge designers in the UK) in 2010. Though he too studied at Central Saint Martins, he says he learned most of his technical skills in China.
Artistic Fusion: Ffixxed
Ffixxed, the brainchild of Fiona Lau and Kain Picken, is meant to be a fusion of fine art and fashion. Though based between Hong Kong and Shenzhen, most of their stockists are in Japan. “There is a lot of space there for things that are new and young and maybe a little more experimental, and a real appreciation for quality and production and finer details,” said the designers.
Noteworthy Talent: Huishan Zhang
Huishan Zhang was hand-picked to work at Dior’s haute couture atelier when he was still a student at Central Saint Martins. His eponymous brand, which he started in 2010, is now stocked at Browns in the UK, as well as Barney’s across America.
Bridging Cultures: Laurence Xu
Laurence Xu has shown his work at Paris’ invitation-only haute couture fashion week since July 2013. “I was born to be a fashion designer,” he expresses. “I also carry a strong sense of purpose to promote the combination of Chinese and Western elements on the international stage.”
Local Inspiration: Chictopia
Chictopia, one of China’s most popular local brands, was founded by Christina Lau when she was only 24. The quirky prints and bright colors are inspired by Chinese indie designers from the 1990s.
