Since I published my account of walking the Portuguese Way of the Camino de Santiago through Portugal and Spain, I’ve had several people reach out with questions about my journey. Specifically, they asked if I could share my itinerary.
Other questions lingered over details: Where did I stay? What did I pack? How far did I walk each day?
I’m thrilled to hear from so many people who want to undertake this pilgrimage, so I’m sharing all the information from my Google planning doc and budget public here.
These were the accommodations available to me in June 2022 — I hope this information is helpful in planning your own walk of St. James.
Before the Camino: Two Days in Porto
I arrived in Porto and checked into the Wine Hostel, where I had a private room with a private bath. I loved the walkable location of this property (and they give you a welcome glass of port upon arrival). I used these days to recover from jet lag and experience Porto, from its Port Houses to the wondrous tiles in the train station. Total cost for 2 days: 125€/$128 plus a 4€ tax (the second fee paid in cash on arrival).
Two highlights from my city tour included:
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A tour of Calem Cellars (17€ with premium tasting). This informative tour educates visitors on how Port is made and the differences between the types produced, followed by a tasting experience.
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Entry to the famed bookstore Livraria Lello (17.90€ for entry and a souvenir book). Making a reservation in advance is highly recommended, especially due to the crowds it attracts.
My Itinerary on the Camino
I aimed to keep my mileage on the Camino to approximately 10-12 miles/16-20 kilometers each day, although some days were longer while others were shorter.
Quick Note: I’m using the mileage recorded on my Apple Watch, and expenses varied between Euro and USD since these places were booked through apps. I’ve tried to provide the most accurate details, but keep in mind that individual mileage and costs can differ.
Day 1: Porto to Labruge along the Coast (14 miles/22 kilometers)
I had heard the walk out of Porto on the central route was a slog along busy roads, so I opted to follow the river from the Sé Cathedral and along the coast to Vila de Conde.
Where I stayed: Albergue São Tiago de Labruge (20€). This albergue features lots of beds in an open dorm setting. Although no breakfast was included, I was able to find accommodation without prior reservation due to a full town.
Day 2: Rates (14.23 miles/22.9 kilometers)
On this day, I transitioned from the Coastal route to the Central route.
Where I stayed: Casa Anabela (35€). I had a private room, shared bath and breakfast, along with complimentary bottled water and port wine.
Note: I enjoyed a pilgrim’s meal across the street for 11€, with options like chicken/rice/salad.
Day 3: Barcelos (8.91 miles/14.3 kilometers)
Must stop along the way: Michelin recommended restaurant Pedra Furada offering a lunchtime pilgrim’s meal for 11€. The owner, Antonio, operates his albergue as a support for Ukrainian refugees.
Where I stayed:
Casa da Ana Boutique Guest House (69€/$70.35). A delightful location with excellent food options, it provides an ideal respite along the journey.
Day 4: Facha (11.9 miles/19.1 kilometers)
Where I stayed: Casa De Fernanda (20€). Known for its warm hospitality, Fernanda serves delightful meals and creates an inviting atmosphere for weary pilgrims.
Make a reservation well in advance by calling her landline +351 914 589 521 or emailing fernandarodrigues1970@hotmail.com
Day 5: Ponte de Lima (8.13 miles/13 kilometers)
Where I stayed: Old Village Hostel (25€/$25.49). Booking in advance would have been preferable, ensuring proximity to the stunning outdoor market on the day of departure.
Day 6: Rubiães (11.9 miles/19.1 kilometers)
Don’t underestimate the distance—it includes challenging, uphill sections. The Cruz dos Franceses is a poignant stop on this leg of the journey.
Day 7: Cross into Spain to Tui (12.45 miles/20 kilometers)
Where I stayed: Parador de Tui (155.57€/$159.13). A splendid splurge to celebrate crossing the border, it’s advisable to book in advance as it fills quickly.
Day 8: O Porriño (11.76 miles/18.9 kilometers)
Where I stayed: Senda Sur (hostel/mixed dorm) (13€/$13.25). While breakfast is not included, nearby bakeries abound.
Day 9: Redondela (11 miles/17.7 kilometers)
A Conserveira (12€/ $12.25). This hostel is well-placed near several dining options and maintains a clean environment.
Days 10-11: Pontevedra (12.91 miles/20.77 kilometers)
Where I stayed: Parador de Pontevedra (2 nights for 253.88€/ $259.70). A spacious garden area contributes to this relaxing environment.
Day 12: Caldas de Reis (12.72 miles/20.47 kilometers)
Caldas de Reis is a charming town along the river. It features natural hot springs where you can rest after a long day of walking.
Where I stayed: Albergue Albor (19.55€/ $20). Run by the warm host Yolanda, it includes breakfast and a unique wax stamp for credentials.
Day 13: Padron (11.5 miles/18.5 kilometers)
As the heat wave rolled in, early mornings became my ally for moving quickly along the path.
Where I stayed: Cruces de Iria ($15). Its location minimizes mileage for final day travel. The owner shares the history of the town with guests.
Day 14: Santiago de Compostela (14.83 miles/23.86 kilometers)
This last day feels lengthy but the excitement of reaching the end makes it fly by.
Where I stayed: At the end of my journey, I treated myself to Hotel Palacio del Carmen (two nights at 398€/$408 total).
Upon arrival, head to the Pilgrim’s Office to collect your Compostela. Enjoy a pilgrim’s mass at noon (12:00) or 7 pm (19:00) at the Cathedral, where you can witness the famous Botafumeiro in action on special occasions.
How I celebrated: I savored a splurge dinner at the Michelin-star Casa Marcelo. It was a delightful experience worth the 95€ spent.
My Expenses on the Camino Portuguese
For my 17-night trip, I spent approximately 1209€/ $1236 on lodging, with the following breakdown:
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Albergue/Hostels: 6 nights (12-20 Euros)
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Private room/shared bath: 2 nights (25-35 euro)
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Guest house private room/private bath: 3 nights (25-64 euro)
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Hotels: 6 nights (69-170 euro)
Food expenses were around 420€/ $429, including my celebratory meal, while additional expenses (new socks, ibuprofen, sunscreen, and laundry) totaled about 80€.
In total, my expenditures amounted to approximately 1700€/ $1738, averaging about 100€/ $102 a day plus airfare. As a travel writer, I aimed to experience a mix of accommodations while ensuring comfort during rest days.
What Did I Bring?
In packing for the Camino, I recommend assessing personal needs. My gear weighed in at 18 pounds/8 kilograms, and I sent a larger suitcase to my hotel in Santiago de Compostela via Tuitrans ($70 USD).
Go Get Fitted for the Right Backpack
I found my Deuter Futura Vario 45+10 liter bag to be essential. It’s crucial to ensure your pack fits perfectly, and experienced staff at stores like REI can assist in selecting the right gear.
If I Did It Again…
Next time, I would opt for luggage transport between accommodations, eliminating the burden of carrying a sleeping bag, and ensuring I have upgraded insoles to prevent discomfort. I’d also prioritize adding more rest days in picturesque locations like Ponte de Lima and Valença—both deserving more exploration.
