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- Bavarian Alps
June 24, 2022 • 8 min read
Nearly 400 years ago, the town of Oberammergau made a promise to host a Passion Play every 10 years to fend off the plague. After a different pandemic delayed the latest production, this year’s show is extra special.
During my visit to Oberammergau on a balmy Saturday evening in May, the town of 5,400 in the Bavarian Alps was vibrant. Security staff directed traffic along the main street, while pedestrians navigated between bustling restaurants, souvenir stands, and shops with handcrafted wood statues and biblical scenes. Tour buses brought visitors from local hotels and guesthouses, and backstage at a pastel-colored theater, locals donned long flowing robes and prepared for the second act of the once-in-a-decade Passion Play.
For several months every ten years, Oberammergau hosts a spectacle that attracts international attention. The Passionsspiele, or Passion Play, is a 5-hour production depicting Jesus’s life, crucifixion, and death. After a two-year pandemic delay, nearly half a million people are anticipated to attend the performances from mid-May to early October. On the five nights per week the play is showcased, the town’s population can nearly double, with hotels in the area filled to capacity.
A Promise Made, A Promise Kept
This extraordinary tradition is centuries in the making. In 1633, amid a plague outbreak, villagers made a pledge to God: If he spared them from the plague, they would perform the Passion Play every ten years. Since then, Oberammergau has kept that promise (and remained plague-free). Originally scheduled for 2020, this was meant to be its 42nd edition.
I visited Oberammergau to discover how this town, adorned with fresco-covered houses just an hour’s drive south of Munich, has maintained what has become known as the longest-running play in the world. What I found was a true community effort: nearly a third of the 5,400 residents participate in some manner, while others play indirect roles managing the chaos that recurs once a decade, from restaurant owners and shopkeepers to ticket collectors and firefighters. The play’s immense impact on the town is evident in how Oberammergauers measure their lives not in years but in Passion Plays.
A Family Affair
For Christian Gerold, who runs a butcher shop in the center of town that has been in his family for six generations, this year’s Passion Play marks his eighth performance. He starts work before dawn to finish in time for his role as a member of the high council on stage.
“I’m personally very proud of it: My whole family joins in,” he said, gesturing to his daughters, sons-in-law, and grandchildren, who are all part of the production this year. “The youngest is just five months old and was on stage on Sunday,” he beamed.
Throughout my time in Oberammergau, I discovered such family commitment is common. During a meal, I overheard a young man discussing his role as one of two actors portraying John, while his father played Pontius Pilate. Interestingly, the main press contact for the play shared that he also plays the role of Jesus, demonstrating the deep familial connections within the production.
A Tradition Disrupted
The pandemic’s disruption was palpable, especially given the production’s immersive nature. When Germany entered lockdown in March 2020, the actors were deep into rehearsals, and local businesses prepared for an imminent wave of tourists. “From one minute to the next, it was all over — it was very strange,” Ursula Mayr, who has a small role in the production, remarked during our conversation in her dressing room. “We had to wait a long time before we were allowed on stage again.”
During intermission, I spoke with director Christian Stückl, who held court at a nearby café. Stückl, a local celebrity, discussed the unique nature of the play. “There’s almost nothing like it around the world, where an entire town engages in theater together,” he said.
This year marks Stückl’s fourth time directing the Passion Play. When I inquired about his interest in the production, he expressed that it’s been part of his life since childhood: “I was seven years old when I was first a part of it. My father and grandfather held significant roles, and I was always present at the theater.”
A Triumphant Return
Despite ongoing pandemic concerns, the town leaned into hopefulness as the production commenced. Preparations experienced delays due to the winter Omicron wave, leaving many anxious about the potential for further postponements. Now that the play has started, however, fears linger regarding possible outbreaks among cast members. Each of the approximately 1,800 cast members must conduct a rapid self-test prior to taking the stage.
During my second day in town, I watched from the audience as hundreds of robe-clad townspeople embraced the stage against a backdrop of blue skies. The production’s majesty was captivating. Between the twelve scenes, a choir filled the air with song, while actors embraced the stillness to create “living pictures.” Although my initial goal was to learn about the play’s impact on the community, witnessing the show reminded me of the fervent dedication that motivates half a million visitors from across the globe to come here. This shared sense of identity and the effort to host something so relevant to Oberammergau’s essence made that day feel remarkably special.
Residents share this sentiment, noting the heightened emotional significance of this year’s performances. Notably, a canteen usually closes about an hour after the play ends, yet vice-mayor Eugen Huber remarked that attendees are so reluctant to leave that they are considering extending hours. “You can feel it out there: There’s a real recovery in society,” he shared. “People are connecting, enjoying the time together, regardless of background and income. This play serves as a remarkable unifier.”
The Passion Play runs until October 2, 2022.
