Often overlooked by the crowds who flock to Delhi and Mumbai, fascinating, foodie Chennai serves as the gateway to India’s steamy south. Within easy striking distance of the Tamil Nadu capital lie timeless temple towns, coastal nature reserves, old colonial outposts, and beach resorts that are as popular for monsoon watching as they are for lounging on the sand.
Like other large Indian hubs, Chennai is fast-paced and frenetic, as you might expect from a city of eight million residents. The city can swelter like a tandoori oven in the tropical heat, especially leading up to the June–September monsoon. For optimum conditions for exploring, it’s advisable to visit between November and March during the mild Indian winter.
Most visitors enjoy spending a few days indulging in Chennai’s food, markets, and towering temples. However, when the crowds become overwhelming, escaping to quieter spots along the coast and inland is simple via bus or train. Below is a guide to the top day trips from Chennai.
Try surfing, Indian-style, at Kovalam (Covelong)
Located just 30km (18.6 miles) south of Chennai, the serene fishing village of Kovalam (Covelong) has emerged as Tamil Nadu’s favorite surf spot, thanks to its powerful beach and reef breaks that perform best from June to September. In winter, it’s worth visiting just for the calm atmosphere and the beautiful beach.
The relaxed surf culture at Kovalam owes much to Indian surfing pioneer Murthy Megavan, who discovered the waves in his youth and learned to surf on old wooden planks before borrowing his first board from the famed ‘surfing swami’ Jack Hebner.
Today, he runs the Covelong Point surf school, located near the village’s prime right-hand break. Besides surf classes, you can also learn paddleboarding, kayaking, and windsurfing, or participate in the school’s Surf.Yoga.Music Festival held in August or September (confirm if it has resumed following the pandemic).
How to get to Kovalam: Kovalam is easily reached via the hourly 599 city bus that departs from Chennai’s T Nagar Bus Depot (approximately one hour), which continues on to Mamallapuram. Routes 109 and 119 also service this area.
Discover a riot of carvings in temple-tastic Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram)
Just a short bus ride south from central Chennai, Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) was once the principal seaport of the powerful Pallava kingdom, whose rulers filled the coastline with some of India’s most striking temples and shrines. Today, the town remains a vibrant hub for stone-carving.
Thanks to its remarkable collection of temples and shrines, this former fishing village has evolved into a lively pilgrimage center, traveler hotspot, and beach retreat. Right along the water, you’ll encounter the twin-spired Shore Temple, an impressive stack of carved tiers that formerly opened directly onto the sand, and Arjuna’s Penance, a house-sized boulder depicting scenes from the Hindu epic, the Mahabharata.
Just inland, the rocky outcrop of Mamallapuram Hill boasts a multitude of temples, carvings, and balancing boulders connected by well-worn walking paths. After exploring, consider refreshing yourself with a surf class at Mumu Surf School or enjoy a bite at Le Yogi before heading back to Chennai.
Getting there: Bus 599 operates hourly throughout the day from Chennai’s T Nagar Bus Depot, taking up to two hours, depending on traffic conditions.
Get in a flap over flamingos at Pulicat Lake
From December to January, the brackish lagoon at Pulicat attracts numerous long-legged, shrimp-loving visitors, along with a dedicated group of bird-watchers eager to spot them. During peak winter season, the colony of greater flamingos in the Pulicat Lake Bird Sanctuary can swell to 15,000 birds, painting the waters pink.
The lagoon also serves as a migratory stop for spot-billed pelicans, herons, egrets, spoonbills, and storks. Flamingos can be viewed from various points along the banks, including the roadway that connects Sullurupeta and Sriharikota.
Birds aren’t the only reason to visit Pulicat; the village is home to several impressive temples, a lighthouse that may sometimes be climbed, a Dutch-colonial cemetery with carved skeletons guarding the gates, and the ruins of Fort Geldria, the first Dutch outpost in India.
How to get to Pulicat: Pulicat is situated 60km (37 miles) north of Chennai, and the best way to reach this destination is by hiring a taxi for the day in Chennai, allowing for easy exploration upon arrival; allocate 1½ hours each way for travel. Alternatively, you can take city bus 595 from Chennai’s Toll Gate Bus Depot or bus 558B from Moolakadal (travel time is two to three hours).
Temple-hop through the centuries in Kanchipuram
If you have seen the artistry that the Pallava kings dedicated to their seaport at Mamallapuram, you will be perfectly primed for a visit to their capital, Kanchipuram. This inland temple town, situated 80km (50 miles) southwest of Chennai, is overflowing with extravagant, hand-carved temples, whose stones were assembled by various Hindu dynasties spanning from the 4th to the 11th centuries.
On the outskirts of town, the Kailasanantha Temple features the same angular tiers and wall-topping Nandi (bull) statues as Mamallapuram’s Shore Temple but on an even grander scale. Back in the center, the Kamakshi Amman Temple and Ekambareshwara Temple are classic examples of the Dravidian temple style, crowned by soaring gopurams (temple towers) adorned with a multifarious array of deities. However, only Hindus are permitted to enter the inner sanctums.
Take a moment to savor a fiery south Indian thali (plate meal) or enjoy a dosa (rice and lentil pancake) at Hotel Saravana Bhavan before returning to Chennai.
How to get to Kanchipuram: Suburban trains depart from Chennai’s Egmore station approximately every hour (travel time is two hours) until the early evening. Alternatively, you may also take one of the frequent but crowded public buses from Chennai Mofussil Bus Terminus.
Find fancy fortifications in Vellore
To consolidate their power over the region, European colonial powers constructed formidable forts across southern India, and in some instances, they appropriated existing fortifications built by local rulers. Encompassed by 2km (1.2 miles) of moat-flanked walls, the impressive fort at Vellore was, at various points, Hindu, Muslim, and Christian, as successive conquerors passed through its gates.
Exploring the calm, dusty interior today reveals Muslim mosques and pavilions, a quaint Christian church, and the towering Jalakantesvara Temple, with its gleaming white gopuram (temple tower) dominating the skyline. Notably, this location was the site of the first rebellion by Indian troops against their British commanders in 1806.
Vellore, meanwhile, lies outside of the mainstream tourist circuit, which provides another compelling reason to visit: to experience life in an Indian town that does not rely heavily on tourism. The local branch of Hotel Saravana Bhavan serves a delightful vegetarian feast featuring idlis (steamed rice cakes), dosas, and thalis.
How to get to Vellore: Buses frequently operate between Chennai Mofussil Bus Terminus and Vellore (approximately three hours). Air-conditioned Volvo buses offer more comfort compared to the crowded public buses. As an alternative, you can take a fast train from Chennai Central (2½ hours).
Relish the French flair of colonial Puducherry (Pondicherry)
Alongside the British and Portuguese, the French established their own colonial outpost on India’s coast at Puducherry – formerly known as Pondicherry – where the streets are still adorned with European-style villas, coffee shops, and cathedrals. The French government ruled this tiny corner of Tamil Nadu until 1954 when locals voted overwhelmingly to join India following a referendum for independence.
Today, the primary attraction lies in strolling through the markedly European-influenced streets, relaxing in cafe settings, and exploring pastel-colored French-era churches. Almost everyone takes a side trip to the Auroville Ashram, situated 12km (7.5 miles) northwest of the main town, which attracted a significant number of spiritual travelers during the 1960s. Auroville continues to host over 1500 foreign devotees who adhere to a philosophy centered on peace, universality, and divine consciousness.
Given the length of the journey, you might consider an overnight stay. The mango-yellow Les Hibiscus offers budget-friendly rates within a charming colonial villa in the French Quarter, while Villa Shanti provides a top-end experience with sophisticated design by two French architects. Whether you opt for a stay or a day trip, be sure to indulge in a croissant at Baker Street, or enjoy a European-inspired salad ‘thali’ at Domus, located behind a trendy design store on Suffren St.
How to get to Puducherry: Despite its popularity, Puducherry is only served by two daily trains from Chennai’s Egmore station (about four hours); very regular buses make the same journey in a similar timeframe from Chennai Mofussil Bus Terminus.
This article was first published on October 8, 2019, and updated on January 26, 2022.
