Pulsating Music Scene in Puerto Rico
For centuries, Puerto Ricans have been marching to the beat of their own drum. From busy markets to schoolyards, restaurants, colmados (grocery stores), funerals, and bass-bumping cars passing by, there isn’t a moment in Puerto Rico that isn’t punctuated by a musical melange.
Homegrown genres like reggaeton and salsa dominate the radio airwaves and attract thousands of revelers to improvised dance floors and outdoor bars night after night, while traditional genres like bomba and plena offer a gateway into the idiosyncrasies and history that define the Puerto Rican experience.
Salsa is in the Blood
Though the origins of the name salsa have been debated, the music’s roots stretch back to the 1930s and 1940s in Cuba, with the emergence of son montuno. When diplomatic relations with Cuba were open, this genre traveled to New York City alongside several Spanish Caribbean people, including Puerto Ricans, Dominicans, and Cubans.
Salsa exploded in the US during the late 1960s and 1970s in the Caribbean medley of New York City. Bands formed mainly of Latinos, like Celia Cruz, Rubén Blades, Johnny Pacheco, Machito, and Héctor Lavoe became household names thanks to the Fania record company.
The Salsa Sound
Salsa has always kept its Cuban roots concerning instrumentation, with instruments like bongos, congas, and timbales being constant. Puerto Rican musicians contributed traditional elements such as bomba, plena, danza (a traditional ballroom genre), and música jíbara, a type of folk music originating from Puerto Rico’s mountainous regions.
Puerto Rican salsa epitomizes the Puerto Rico-NYC emigration pipeline, with artists like Lavoe, Bobby Valentín, and the Lebrón Brothers showcasing their unique styles.
Home-grown musicians also influenced the development of Puerto Rican salsa. Rafael Cortijo y Su Combo gained fame in the 1950s for their experimental mixes of guaracha, a genre rooted in Cuba, with songs addressing social issues like racism and poverty. Although salsa evolved from the 1950s to the 1990s, it has mainly stagnated into salsa romantica, which features slower melodies and themes of love and heartache.
Nonetheless, salsa dura—a style emphasizing instruments like the piano, horns, bass, and percussion—can be heard from loudspeakers in colmados across the island. Visit places like El Boricua in Río Piedras, La Factoria in Old San Juan, and locations such as Mijani and Taberna Los Vázquez in the Placita de Santurce, which has thrived as an outdoor market for over a century.
Best Places to Hear Salsa
For live orchestras and bands performing salsa, hotel lobbies in San Juan like the Embassy Suites Hotel & Casino and the Fairmont San Juan Hotel with its vibrant musical history and original 1960s-style lobby are your best options. When heading to these hotels, prepare with formal attire and dancing shoes as is customary for locals enjoying a night out.
For a more relaxed atmosphere, visit Taberna Los Vázquez in the Placita de Santurce, known for serving food and offering salsa from Friday to Sunday.
Keeping the Bomba Tradition Alive
Bomba music dates back to the early Spanish colonial period in Puerto Rico, emerging from the transatlantic slave trade and the distinct musical traditions enslaved Africans brought to the island in the 17th century. The music is communal, featuring drummers on subidor (barrel drums) and singers with the cuá (smaller drum played with wooden sticks) and maracas. The drummer’s circle formation is known as batey or soberao.
Highly-skilled dancers donning traditional outfits often join the circle to perform piquete footwork that guides the drummer’s rhythm. Today, bomba lyrics are deeply political, reflecting the struggles and resilience of those who endured hardship.
Where to Experience Bomba
Bomba can be heard in many nightlife spots, including La Terraza de Bonanza in Santurce, El Boricua in Río Piedras, and La Vergüenza in Old San Juan every Sunday. These venues typically offer outdoor spaces where locals enjoy fresh air and ample space to dance.
Plena: El Periódico Cantao’
Plena is a unique Puerto Rican genre that evolved from bomba sounds in the early 20th century, characterized by a rhythmic base played with three panderos (a tambourine-like instrument without cymbals). This genre is heavily percussion-based and often incorporates traditional instruments endemic to Puerto Rico, without relying heavily on European influences.
Reggaeton’s Global Impact
Reggaeton is a genre originating from the streets of Puerto Rico in the early 1990s, showcasing the young, urban, and Afro-Puerto Rican experience. Its lyrics often touch on social justice, sexuality, and the fight for recognition in the cultural world. The musical roots can be traced back to the Jamaican migration to Panama and the fusion of reggae en Español, with Panamanian artist El General recognized as the genre’s pioneer.
Upon reaching Puerto Rico, local artists deviated from translating Jamaican reggae songs into Spanish, instead creating an entirely new sound. Reggaeton combines Jamaica’s dancehall rhythm with the heavy percussion prevalent in Puerto Rican music, accompanied by innovative lyrics.
Where to Hear Reggaeton
Reggaeton music can be found almost everywhere—often played loudly from passing cars, neighboring homes, and in favored chinchorros (small snack bars) throughout the island. For a club atmosphere, visit Piso Viejo in Calle Loíza or Aguardiente in Santurce, where you can also enjoy up-and-coming LGBTIQ+ reggaeton and trap artists like Villano Antillano.
Pop and Rock Presence on the Island
Reggaeton is one of Puerto Rico’s most prominent musical exports; however, pop music has also made significant waves globally. The pop explosion in Puerto Rico occurred during the mid-1960s and 70s, introduced to audiences by cultural critic Alfred D. Herger on his TV programs, paving the way for icons such as Lucecita Benítez and Chucho Avellanet.
Rock and punk music have also found a vibrant scene in Puerto Rico, with venues opening to host local and independent acts since the 1990s. Notable bands include Dávila 666, showcasing various styles from hardcore punk to jazz-rock fusion.
In summary, Puerto Rico is a musical haven where diverse genres like salsa, bomba, plena, reggaeton, pop, and rock coexist. Each genre tells its own story of the culture, history, and vibrant spirit of the island.
