Discover the Mae Hong Son Loop: A Motorbike Adventure in Northern Thailand

Tucked into Thailand’s northwest corner, Mae Hong Son province is no longer the off-the-beaten-track frontier it used to be, but it remains one of the best areas to experience the region’s ethnic minority villages and breathtaking mountain scenery. There’s no better way to take in these mist-covered passes and steamy jungles than tackling the famed 1860 curves of the 373-mile-long (600km) Mae Hong Son Loop on a motorbike.

Starting Your Journey in Chiang Mai

Begin your trip in the northern Thailand tourist hub of Chiang Mai. From here, riders can choose to travel the Mae Hong Son Loop in a clockwise direction by heading south from Chiang Mai towards Hot along route 108, an ideal choice if you’re still building confidence as a rider, or anticlockwise via the more challenging route 107 north to Chiang Dao—you won’t miss a thing either way.

Mae Hong Son Loop Itinerary and Distances

Day 1: Chiang Mai – Chiang Dao – Pai

127 miles (205km), 5 hours

This magnificent stretch of road north of Mae Rim really sets the scene for this journey. Although many riders heading north aim straight for Pai, the 50-mile (80km) deviation to Chiang Dao, a sleepy town nestled among limestone cliffs, is well worth the effort. The tarmac on this stretch, winding through verdant farmland and dusty towns, to sky-high gorges and rocky outcrops, is in excellent condition, which is helpful if you’re still getting used to being on a bike.

One of the main highlights of Chiang Dao, known as the “City of the Stars,” is the awe-inspiring cave complex located about 3 miles (5km) out of town. It features more than 7 miles (12km) of stalactite-strewn tunnels to explore. Some can be done independently, while others require a guide and a lantern (100B; $3). The town itself feels forgotten and offers some decent cafes and guesthouses.

The turnoff to Pai and route 1095 is the real bikers’ paradise—762 bends wind through steep mountain trails, over hills, and through river valleys. The curves are tight and can be slippery or gravel-strewn, so take it slow. The descent into Pai, through vibrant paddy fields, is stunning. There are numerous eateries and accommodation options, like Sabai Garden Bungalows (8 Th Wiang Tai) on the outskirts. If time allows, you won’t regret spending a day at Jazz House Pai, enjoying local dishes and live music.

Day 2: Pai – Soppong – Mae Aw / Ban Rak Thai

78 miles (125km), 2 hours

The most scenic stretch of road on the loop lies just beyond Pai—sharp hairpins and epic panoramas that evoke the landscapes of Jurassic Park. Charming Soppong is worth a stop for coffee, with the muddy Lang River flowing beautifully beside the town. The Cave Lodge provides local Shan food and wood-fired baked goods, creating a perfect spot to relax. Rooms are available for 800B ($24) plus trekking opportunities to the nearby Lod Cave, famous for its swifts at sunset.

About 10 miles (16km) outside Mae Hong Son, after the turnoff to Fish Cave, a small right fork leads to the border village of Mae Aw, also known as Ban Rak Thai. The 25-mile (40km) stretch gives a glimpse of medieval China; tea plantations adorn the landscape, and a serene lake greets you upon arrival. Sip on traditional Chinese black tea while enjoying the picturesque views. Guesthouses along the lake start from 300B ($9).

Day 3: Ban Rak Thai – Khun Yuam – Mae Sariang – Mae Chaem

124 miles (200km), 3-4 hours

Upon reaching Mae Hong Son town, the road levels out, transforming hairpins into smoother racetrack curves. This city attracts both Thai and Chinese holidaymakers, with guesthouses and eateries along Jom Kham Lake making it a solid resting point.

Khun Yuam, located 53 miles (85km) south, is the next stopping point for contemplation. Choose to proceed south toward the open plains of Mae Sariang or take route 1263 inland to Namtok Mae Surin National Park, featuring one of Thailand’s most beautiful waterfalls. With a vertical drop of 590ft (180m) surrounded by lush jungle, Mae Surin is an essential stop for any rider.

While the route to Mae Sariang is easier, the latter option promises a rugged adventure—best for those with good tires and suspension. Mae Chaem serves as the final stop before climbing to Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s tallest mountain, with few accommodation options available. The Mae Chaem Resort provides a clean, comfortable stay with a swimming pool.

Day 4: Mae Chaem – Doi Inthanon – Chiang Mai

108 miles (175km), 1hr 45min

Expect misty weather as you ascend to the mountain summit, particularly during the rainy season; however, the expansive roads simplify navigation. The steep climb through the cool forest may reward you with spectacular views if the skies are clear, making the journey worthwhile.

For those wishing to extend their stay, consider renting a cottage in Doi Inthanon National Park, where local rangers offer options for both accommodation and camping. Venture onto the short 1.6-mile (2.7km) Kew Mae Pan hiking trail for some of Thailand’s most breathtaking scenery at sunrise.

Returning to Chiang Mai via the relatively bland route 108 allows you to reflect on this extraordinary journey through northern Thailand.

When to Go: Optimal Times for Riding the Mae Hong Son Loop

The ideal months to ride the Mae Hong Son Loop are during the dry seasons from November to February (cool) and March to June (hot), minimizing the risk of rain. The cool season refreshes the landscape with blooming wildflowers, making outdoor activities more enjoyable. However, the late winter months may bring air pollution from local burning practices, affecting visibility. Riding between July and September demands rain gear due to monsoonal rains, and it’s essential to remember that the cool season attracts a larger tourist crowd.

Motorcycle Rental: Where to Find Your Ride

Take your time when selecting a rental bike; Chiang Mai boasts numerous rental shops and outlets. Although it’s possible to navigate the loop on a 90cc automatic scooter, a more robust bike is generally preferable. A Kawasaki KLX150 is a popular off-road option, noted for its superior suspension and ride quality. Visit POP Big Bike on Kotchasan Road for models starting from 900B and going up to 3500B for premium bikes like the Honda Africa Twin. Other recommended rental outlets in Chiang Mai include Marble Motorcycle and TBB Motorcycle Adventures.

Rules of the Road: Helmets and Insurance

Wearing a helmet is mandatory in Thailand, with fines for non-compliance. Securing travel insurance is highly recommended, especially since medical facilities are scarce outside of Chiang Mai. Ensure your rental bike comes with Thailand’s Compulsory Motor Insurance, which covers third parties; verify all necessary paperwork to avoid issues with local authorities.

Alternative Touring Options Around the Mae Hong Son Loop

Even non-riders can enjoy the beauty of the Mae Hong Son Loop.

Public Transport

As a result of increased popularity, minivan and local songthaew services now connect key towns along the route. While affordable, these options lack flexibility for stops and may discomfort those prone to motion sickness due to the numerous twists and turns.

Rental Car and Taxi

For those uneasy with motorcycle riding, taxis with drivers offer a safe exploration method, costing around 4000/5000B ($120–150) daily, along with accommodation costs for the drivers. Renting a car is also feasible; however, to avoid potential complications with rental companies, acquiring an International Driver’s Permit is advisable.

Private Tours

Local tour operators provide guided options along the loop. Mae Hong Son Holidays offers tours ranging from one to eight days, including vehicle rentals with trained guides. Thailand Hilltribe Holidays organizes extensive tours featuring homestays with ethnic groups.

Tips for Riding the Mae Hong Son Loop

• Always wear a helmet; full-face helmets are preferable.
• Ensure rental bikes come with minimum third-party insurance; check coverage specifics with your own insurer.
• Inexperienced motorcycle riders should consider alternative transportation options, particularly along the challenging Road 1095, regarded as one of Thailand’s most dangerous routes.
• Avoid leaving your passport with rental agencies; opt for a cash deposit where possible to prevent scams.
• Book accommodation ahead, especially during peak tourism season between October and March.

This article was originally published on October 28, 2014, and updated on December 28, 2021.