Summary
This marks the final installment of a five-part series chronicling Stephen’s journey through Afghanistan. If you missed any previous sections, feel free to explore them here.
FROM STEPHEN
The Final Stop: the Medieval City of Herat
My intention was to travel from Kabul to Herat via Bamiyan; however, due to conflict, only two travel routes were available. The first was an unadvisable bus route through Kandahar, and the second was a flight, which was deemed safe. Regrettably, my plans for an overland journey were modified, but I proceeded with the best option available.
In honesty, the flight was remarkable, although it was delayed on the runway for two hours. Observing Afghanistan from the air is an awe-inspiring experience. The flight showcases the diverse landscapes of Afghanistan: mountains, deserts, lakes, and forests—all breathtaking vistas. The journey lasted approximately an hour, landing in Herat in the early morning.
Herat is situated near the Iranian border and exhibits a medieval charm reminiscent of Iranian architecture and culture. The locals tend to identify more closely with Persian heritage than Afghan identity, making Herat feel like a distinctive and unique sector within Afghanistan.
The taxi service at the airport was exceptionally accommodating, transporting me to the Marco Polo Hotel. The hotel staff demonstrated remarkable hospitality, with one younger staff member volunteering to guide me around Herat, expressing his pride in his native city.
We walked from the hotel to the Herat Fort, passing through vibrant markets filled with enticing aromas of spices and tea. The Herat Fort dominates the city skyline, a testament to the historical significance of Herat. As with many sites in Afghanistan, the fort was devoid of visitors, allowing me to explore this majestic site in solitude.
In addition to the fort, Herat showcases breathtaking sights, including numerous mausoleums adorned with striking blue tiles. The city comprises a labyrinth of bazaars and shops, offering a plethora of goods.
During the evening, I ventured to purchase traditional Afghan war kites. A local advised me to buy multiple kites, as the winds in the area can be fierce, and it’s common to lose some. Consequently, I acquired seven kites and the strongest glass-infused string available. From the rooftop of my hotel, I lost all seven kites. As each kite was severed by a playful child, a bustling group of youngsters would rush through the streets to seize my fallen kite. This experience was genuinely exhilarating and an unforgettable highlight of my time in Afghanistan. This remarkable country has left a lasting impression on my heart.
Travel Insights by Stephen Gollan, the Uncharted Backpacker
Greetings, I am Stephen Gollan, representing the Uncharted Backpacker! My travels have taken me through over 80 countries in the past nine years. I gravitate towards extraordinary destinations that others may hesitate to explore. Recently, I journeyed across Libya, Pakistan, Iran, and Iraq. I prefer adventure-laden journeys, whether climbing mountains in Pakistan or traversing North Africa, to the conventional beach getaway (although I do enjoy the occasional beach retreat!). My website, www.unchartedbackpacker.com, serves as a testament to my travel experiences, providing insights into “off the beaten track” destinations and inspiring others to embark on their own remarkable journeys. The lessons learned through travel are far more enriching than any material possession. I invite you to journey with me around the globe and join me in experiencing a distinctive style of travel, one that I assure you will cherish.
