Separated from mainland Puerto Rico by an 8-mile stretch of choppy blue water, the two jewel-like Caribbean havens of Culebra and Vieques have an irresistible charm and laid-back beach vibe.
Disembark for a few days and you’ll uncover a wealth of surprises – horses roaming free in Vieques, endangered turtles in Culebra – and local communities who reclaimed their prized islands from the US Navy in 1975 (Culebra) and 2003 (Vieques) after over 50 years of military occupation.
However, it’s the beaches that will have visitors to Culebra and Vieques purring with delight. Between them, the two members of the Spanish Virgin Islands boast some of the most dazzling beaches in the Caribbean – best of all, many of them remain pristine and untouched. Culebra and Vieques have yet to attract mass tourism, so there isn’t a golf course, casino, or huge resort in sight.
Which island is best to visit on your trip to Puerto Rico? Here’s a quick guide to Culebra and Vieques to assist you in making your decision.
Best Things to Do in Culebra
Long celebrated for its diamond-dust beaches and world-class diving reefs, sleepy Culebra is probably better known for what it doesn’t offer than for what it actually possesses. There are no large hotels, no golf courses, no casinos, no fast-food chains, no rush-hour traffic and, most importantly, no stress.
Situated 17 miles off mainland Puerto Rico, but inhabiting an entirely different cultural atmosphere, the island’s slow pace can sometimes take a bit of getting used to. It’s home to those seeking a reprieve from modern life, including earnest idealists and myriad eccentrics. It’s also rich in gorgeous natural areas, bays, snorkeling sites, hiking trails, and a range of spectacular beaches.
Culebra’s Best Beaches
Culebra’s beaches showcase wild natural beauty. Tourist facilities vary, with plenty at Playa Flamenco and blissfully few at Playa Zoni. Several beaches are only accessible by hiking, increasing your chances of having a Caribbean beach to yourself, at least for a few hours. Playa Carlos Rosario and Playa Tamarindo are excellent for snorkeling. Isla Culebrita and Cayo Norte are among the more popular cays off Culebra, easily visited by water taxi.
Turtle Watching
Two of Culebra’s most isolated beaches – Resaca and Brava – are nesting sites for the endangered leatherback sea turtle, the world’s largest living sea turtle. The nesting season occurs from April through early June. Each year, a few volunteers monitor the delicate egg-laying process, meticulously counting eggs, measuring turtles, and documenting everything for conservation records. The smaller hawksbill sea turtle, which measures up to 3 feet long and 250 pounds, also lays eggs on Culebra’s beaches.
Diving and Snorkeling
Despite reef damage due to historical military activity and ongoing climate change, Culebra offers some of Puerto Rico’s most stunning dive spots, including sunken ships, coral reefs, drop-offs, and caves. Noteworthy sites include the Wit Power tugboat (which sank in 1984), the Geniqui Caves, El Mono boulders, and the vibrant underwater world of Cayo Ratón.
Good snorkeling sites are accessible from many beaches. For instance, Tamarindo is plentiful with a spectacular variety of fish and features a 50ft coral wall, all protected by the Luis Peña Channel Natural Reserve. Other noteworthy spots include Playa Carlos Rosario and Playa Melones.
Culebra National Wildlife Refuge
More than 20% of Culebra is part of a stunning national wildlife refuge, established more than a century ago. Most of this refuge lies along the coastline and includes over 20 cays. Home to three distinct ecosystems, the refuge serves as a habitat for endangered sea turtles and boasts the largest seabird nesting grounds in the Caribbean. For visitors, it presents opportunities for hiking, bird watching, and relaxing on secluded beaches.
Where to Stay in Culebra
Numerous guesthouses are a short walk from Culebra’s ferry dock, along with many other accommodation options island-wide. Some guesthouses even offer docks for boats. Culebra has an excellent selection of rental apartments and houses of varying styles scattered throughout the island, including numerous vacation rental properties.
Where to Eat in Culebra
For a small island, Culebra offers a plethora of dining options. Seafood, naturally, plays a central role in the local cuisine, much of it sourced from local fishing boats. Not surprisingly, most of Culebra’s restaurants are situated in the quaint town of Dewey. Venture beyond the main town and keep an eye out for food trucks, serving cheap, delicious fare perfect for enjoying a beach picnic.
Best Things to Do in Vieques
Measuring just 21 miles long by 5 miles wide, Vieques is renowned for its beautiful beaches, semi-wild horses, and sparkling bioluminescent bay. It’s significantly larger than Culebra, and although it feels a world away from the hustle and bustle of mainland, the larger population here fosters more accommodations, swankier restaurants, and generally more energy.
Since the official withdrawal of the US Navy in 2003, Vieques has consistently been touted as the Caribbean’s next “big thing,” with pristine beaches and a coastline ripe for developers. Fortunately, environmental authorities intervened quickly after the transfer of land, declaring most of the former military area (70% of the island) a US Fish and Wildlife Refuge. This has resulted in preserving a significant portion of the island as virgin territory. Development elsewhere has been discreet and low-key. Understandably, Vieques’ residents – many of whom are expatriates from the continental US – are highly protective of their Caribbean paradise.
Best Beaches in Vieques
Now protected within the national wildlife refuge, many of Vieques’ beaches are clean, untouched, and paradisiacal. Calm and clear, Playa Caracas is easily reached by a paved road and offers gazebos with picnic tables, providing shade for bathers.
Excellent snorkeling opportunities abound off the eastern side of the beach, populated with healthy sea fans and a diverse marine life. A local favorite, the stunning Playa La Chiva boasts a long stretch of sand with the chance to find your own secluded spot and shade among the shrubs. Snorkeling is great toward the eastern end of the beach, just off a small island.
Secluded Playa La Plata offers a delightful experience at the far eastern end of the island, featuring a stunning bay with icing-sugar sand and calm waters shimmering in different shades of blue. The snorkeling is best on the western side of the beach, though accessing it requires a rough road suitable for 4WD vehicles. The exquisite Playa Escondida stands out with its breathtaking beauty, lacking facilities.
Vieques National Wildlife Refuge
Within the protected confines of the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge are some of the best reasons to visit Vieques. This refuge, once used by the US military, protects vast tracts of largely unspoiled land that includes four different ecological environments: beaches, coastal lagoons, mangrove wetlands, and forested uplands. It also includes critical marine habitats, such as seagrasses and coral reefs.
A variety of colorful species thrive in these areas, including the brown pelican and the endangered West Indian manatee. Vieques’ thicket-strewn forest, which includes some indigenous cacti, represents one of the best examples of dry subtropical forest in the Caribbean.
Perhaps the most impressive Giant Ceiba Tree in Puerto Rico is situated as you travel towards Punta Arenas near Mosquito Pier, a popular snorkeling site. This ancient tree, rumored to be 400 years old, symbolizes the island’s resilience.
Bahía Mosquito (Bioluminescent Bay)
Locals maintain that the stunning Bahía Mosquito contains the highest concentration of phosphorescent dinoflagellates found not just in Puerto Rico but in the entire world. A trip through the lagoon – best experienced through a tour – is nothing short of a mesmerizing spectacle; the movement of your kayak or electric boat, and even fish, creates brilliant fluorescent-blue sparkles dancing beneath the surface. Reservations for tours are highly recommended during peak season, with the best viewing on new moon nights.
Where to Stay in Vieques
Vieques offers a wide array of accommodation options for travelers. In Esperanza, boutique hotels and guesthouses line the beautiful oceanfront Calle Flamboyan, while others situate among the surrounding hills. Most accommodations in Isabel Segunda are conveniently accessible from the ferry. Further afield, stay at some of Puerto Rico’s most unique small, luxurious hotels or opt for a beachfront camping experience.
Where to Eat in Vieques
Vieques features great dining experiences, showcasing various cuisines across different price points. Seafood is a prevalent highlight. In Esperanza, most cafes line Calle Flamboyan, offering beautiful views over the turquoise water to Cayo de Tierra. Isabel Segunda’s restaurants dot the town, providing the best selection of delicious Caribbean cuisine.
When to Visit Culebra and Vieques
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The spring shoulder season (April through June) brings picture-perfect weather and fewer travelers. While discounts on accommodations are rare, you’ll enjoy fewer crowds on the beaches; some days, it may be just you and the birds.
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The best viewing of the bioluminescent bay in Vieques occurs during the new moon. Some operators don’t venture out when the moon is full. From April through June, wildlife enthusiasts can volunteer for a turtle-egg protection project on Culebra.
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The famous Caribbean trade winds caress these islands, yet the weather stays warm and balmy nearly every day of the year.
How to Get to Culebra and Vieques
There’s frequent air service to both islands from San Juan. However, much cheaper options are the regular public ferries operating between Ceiba and the islands. In January, ferry passengers might catch a glimpse of humpback whales.
This article was originally published in November 2011 and updated in August 2021.
This article was first published on Nov 16, 2011, and updated on Aug 29, 2021.
