Creole Trail Rides: A Celebration of Culture in Louisiana and Texas

On any given weekend in towns across Louisiana and Texas, hooves click-clack on pavement and wagons blast infectious zydeco rhythms. Holding the horse’s reins in one hand, and a cold beer in the other, is a long line of cowboys. Not the John Wayne-type typically seen in Hollywood westerns, but African American men and women, celebrating their culture on a Creole trail ride.

These campout festivals involve a procession of horses and wagons, spicy Creole food, traditional line dancing, and all-night partying. Bring a cowboy hat, an empty stomach, and a horse if you have one because everyone’s welcome (as long as they behave). Here’s what you need to know about Creole trail rides.

Creole Trail Ride History

No one knows exactly when trail rides first began, but they have surged in popularity in the last decade as urbanites skip the clubs in favor of these wildly fun parties in the dusty countryside. The first trail rides were organized by black Creoles – descendants of Africans and the French or Spanish colonizers who settled the area before it became part of the US – who were excluded from white cowboy culture.

It’s thought that West Africans enslaved by the French in the Lafayette area of Louisiana in the 1760s were among the original American cowboys – horse-riding cattle herders – then known as vachères, a Creole term from the French for cow. Some historians suggest that as many as one in four cowboys in early America were black. However, this representation has largely been omitted from popular culture, save for a few movies and songs that acknowledge their contributions.

Traditionally, trail rides included only members of the local community – family, friends, and members of cowboy associations. However, Paul Scott, the coordinator of Step-N-Strut, a three-day trail ride commonly known as the Creole Woodstock, says some newcomers are welcomed enthusiastically by regulars. “You’ll show up, and there’ll be nine people that can knock you over and say come on,” he explains.

Saddling Up

People tend to show up early in the morning for trail rides, which usually occur on Saturdays in Texas and Sundays in Louisiana. Some attendees feed their horses before the ride begins, while others set up an RV for camping. However, not everyone stays the night. Those without a horse – the majority of attendees – ride along in wagons, typically equipped with loudspeakers, an ice chest packed with beverages, and a port-a-potty for emergencies. Once everyone is ready, the lead wagon begins the ride, and the riders follow along, with everyone else dancing their way down the trail or partying inside the wagons. Trail rides might sound restricted to backcountry dirt roads; however, they can go along streets and through towns, just as long as they conclude where they began.

Yee-haw, Zydeco Style

After a few hours riding along the trail, the fun is far from over. A campsite is set up, where southern soul, country, and zydeco (Creole music that typically features the accordion, fiddle, and washboard) begins to play as horses are given some much-needed rest. Hip-hop has also made its way into the trail riding world, albeit with some controversy; some argue it is untraditional and may make people too rowdy. Nevertheless, a unique blend of hip-hop and zydeco music is one reason for the recent rise in popularity of trail rides.

Care to dance? Don’t be shy. When music plays, line dances follow suit. Scott, who has organized Creole events since his teens, says people willingly show newcomers how to boogie. “If you can grab on, somebody will grab you.”

Refueling the Creole Way

In sizzling pots around camp, expect to find ball crabs, crawfish, shrimp, and potatoes or pretty much anything smothered in a rich brown gravy made from various local animals including deer, rabbit, squirrel, pork, chicken, sausage, or rooster. Moreover, you will likely find gumbo – a meat-based stew – especially if temperatures dip into the 50s°F. “You ain’t never lived unless you’ve had a real rabbit gumbo,” Scott remarks.

There’s a good chance someone will invite you over to share their meal – everybody tends to make plenty. The same goes for drinks during the ride. Southern hospitality is genuinely present on trail rides; nevertheless, express gratitude when offered.

If your trail ride brings you near Breaux Bridge, “the crawfish capital of the world,” Glenda’s Creole Kitchen serves Creole delicacies similar to those enjoyed on trail rides, alongside some unique options such as Glenda’s famous stuffed turkey legs. When Anthony Bourdain visited, he remarked on Glenda’s cooking, saying she stirs up “the gravy of the gods.”

Rules of the Ride

Trail rides are immensely entertaining, but as with anything involving alcohol, situations can get a bit rowdy. Scott advises attendees to “come with a mature and fun-loving mind” while maintaining control yet enjoying themselves. Furthermore, it is essential to drink water, as the sun can be intense in this region, and it is advisable to find one of the trail ride organizers if you need assistance. Many trail rides include first responders just in case.

How to Find a Trail Ride

While the majority of trail rides are held in Louisiana and East Texas, you can also find some in Oklahoma, Mississippi, Georgia, and North Carolina. The best way to discover one is by visiting the Zydeco Events website. Alternatively, you can search on Facebook using the phrase “trail ride” combined with the location you wish to visit.

Among the largest events are Step-N-Strut, which attracts as many as 3,000 attendees over three days in November, and Four Horsemen, which can draw as many as 7,000 people. However, you do not need to attend the largest trail rides to have an enjoyable experience. “Some of them may not be super huge, but all of them are super fun,” Scott adds.

This article was originally published in October 2018 and updated in January 2021.