With so much of the world inaccessible right now, we’re taking a look through our archive of travel writing to revisit our past trips and to look at how GoTravelDaily has spent decades exploring the world in the hope of better understanding it. In this piece from 2019, Oliver Smith travels to the remote borders of Montenegro, Albania, and Kosovo to set foot in a once-forbidden mountain wilderness where, today, walkers are warmly welcomed.
According to local legend, God took six days to create the earth, the sea, and the sky. However, the devil took only 24 hours to create the Accursed Mountains. It was a full day’s work, crafting deep ravines and sculpted rock spires that were synonymous with bandits, blood feuds, and misfortune for the unwary traveler.
Today, the Accursed Mountains straddle the borders of three nations: Montenegro, Kosovo, and Albania. Setting out on a morning stroll in early summer, one suspects the Almighty would be impressed by his rival’s handiwork, for it is a region of radiant, intense beauty.
Starting off from Montenegro
The journey begins in the village of Vusanje, Montenegro, framed by a beautifully carved timber minaret. Soon, I find myself deep in wildflower meadows, surrounded by fluttering butterflies amidst mighty limestone mountains and crumbling boulder fields. The experience is akin to a mini-Yosemite in the Balkans, evoking a sense of mystery and adventure.
There are only a few hikers along the way, which lends an air of solitude and escape from the bustle of civilization. Four hours into the hike, I cross the Montenegro-Albania border, encountering derelict military bunkers en route. The village of Theth in Albania lies roughly 14 miles ahead; until 1991, it felt as remote as the far side of the moon.
“If you were caught hiking in these mountains in those days, you could face prison or worse,” says Pavlin Polia, a robust mountain guide and guesthouse owner in Theth, where he grew up.
During his childhood, Theth was part of Communist Albania, known for its brutal oppression and poverty. The dictator, Enver Hoxha, constructed over 170,000 bunkers nationwide—partly to deter enemies and also as a means to keep citizens confined.
For decades, the Accursed Mountains acted as Hoxha’s formidable barrier, which was extremely difficult to cross, particularly for those trying to escape to Montenegro. Over coffee with Pavlin in his guesthouse in Theth, stories of ancient escape attempts surface—of families cleverly navigating the rugged terrain while avoiding stringent border checks.
Although the past of communism is fading, the geopolitical landscape has recently transformed, opening up these mountains to hiking enthusiasts. Pavlin played a key role in establishing the Peaks of the Balkans trail, a remarkable 120-mile hiking route connecting three nations in the heart of the Accursed Mountains.
This two-week odyssey includes various segments, with the hike from Vusanje to Theth being just one notable section. Establishing this trail involved identifying remote routes used only by local shepherds and persuading farmers to welcome guests into their homes, all while adeptly navigating complex politics.
“Eventually, they reasoned that if smuggling cigarettes were the plan, it would likely happen in the boot of a vehicle, not in a backpack trekking through mountains,” Pavlin reflects humorously.
The Most Misunderstood Country in Europe
Albania is arguably one of the most misunderstood countries in Europe. This unique nation possesses a language devoid of close relatives, featuring an array of letters that can baffle outsiders. Sitting midway between Rome and Athens, it lived much of the late 20th century akin to a European North Korea, holding aloof from NATO and the Eastern Bloc.
While it carries a legacy entwined with crime and poverty in the popular imagination, for hikers who visit villages like Theth, Albania is a land of fragrant beehives, rustic bread smeared with honey, and stunning mountain scenery.
After spending the night in Theth, the Albanian segment of the Peaks of the Balkans trail leads up towards the breathtaking Valbonë Valley. As I ascend higher, the vistas switch to IMAX proportions, revealing grand rock formations and enchanting meadows, where majestic eagles soar in the uplift from the Adriatic Sea.
At the highest pass, one clearly observes that the Accursed Mountains stand as one of the last refuges of wilderness in the Balkans. Wolves and brown bears inhabit these ranges, along with the critically endangered Balkan lynx, which struggles to survive in this majestic terrain.
However, this precious habitat faces severe threats. In 2015, the Albanian government passed legislation permitting hydroelectric dam construction in the Valbonë Valley—an initiative that will inundate vast areas, obliterating forests and transforming wild rivers into trickles.
The Peaks of the Balkans trail will naturally traverse the proposed dam sites, which presents issues beyond the landscape—blocking age-old wildlife trails that countless species rely on for migration. Despite ongoing legal struggles from environmental organizations across Europe, bulldozers were spotted within Valbonë National Park during my visit.
“These mountains are likely the last truly wild area of Europe,” asserts Besi Ismajli, a guide I encounter while navigating the lower slopes. He bears a tattoo of a wolf on his calf and an eagle on his bicep. “We must fight to preserve this environment, and currently, Albania is losing that fight.”
The Borders of the Accursed Mountains
As one explores the Accursed Mountains, borders become an omnipresent reality. Occasionally, a border traces along a precarious ridge, dips into frigid lakes, or appears with a faded sign declaring, “Welcome to MO TE EGRO.” Most often, however, it goes unnoticed, evidenced only by a text message from your phone provider.
These borders are invisible to Isah Zymer Dresias’s cows, whose grazing habits disregard the Montenegro-Kosovo boundary that now runs behind his woodshed. Although he frequently visits the border police to reclaim his wandering livestock, he finds life in Kosovo’s Rugova Valley beautiful.
“Life here is stunning,” he remarks, as I cross into Kosovo. “Spending time here will surely imbue you with health and vigor, certainly extending your lifespan.”
As the trail winds deeper into Kosovo, the landscape shifts from vertical peaks to gentle hills blanketed with broadleaf forests filled with wild strawberries and apricots. The Rugova Gorge offers cafes overlooking a bubbling river, where Kosovars gather for weekend picnics.
Though it appears tranquil, the Accursed Mountains bear a complex past. In 1998, during the turbulent final chapter of the Balkan Wars, Yugoslav forces clashed with the Kosovo Liberation Army in this region. Amidst the atrocities against Kosovar Albanians, violent confrontations erupted, rendering peaceful coexistence untenable.
While political borders present their own complications, the map of ethnic and religious boundaries further complicates the narrative of the Accursed Mountains. In certain areas of the Rugova Valley, one may discover a Serbian Orthodox monastery adorned with frescoed saints, while nearby, the call to prayer resonates from village mosques.
Additionally, the area’s rich tapestry includes Albanians, Serbs, Bosniaks, Macedonians, Roma, and Egyptians. The diverse ethnic mix, while historically volatile, currently leans towards cooperation as most look steadfastly towards the future.
A Stitch in the Wound
The conclusion of my journey arrives in the village of Rekë e Allagës, where Mustafa and Fethiye Nikqi now reside. Mustafa has rebuilt his farmhouse after it was destroyed in the war and transformed it into Ariu (“Bear”) Guesthouse. Today, he welcomes hiking enthusiasts, all drawn together by their passion for this stunning area. He notes that the Peaks of the Balkans trail promotes understanding across borders, as guides from different nationalities collaborate, and guesthouses keep each other informed of incoming hikers.
“Had this path existed 25 years ago, perhaps we wouldn’t have faced a war,” reflects Mustafa. “The Peaks of the Balkans trail offers a healing connection among people, akin to a stitch in a wound.”
Staying the night here evokes a delightful sense of cultural disorientation, with Mustafa praising Fethiye’s homemade Ramadan cheese and wild boar dishes, all paired with enriched raki made from apples grown in their orchards. Guests recline in dormitories adorned with images of Mecca and Medina, while stories abound of ancient caravan traders journeying over the mountains.
As the sun sets over the Accursed Mountains, it casts golden hues across Rekë e Allagës, while shadows engulf the realm below. In the distance lies an area categorized as “disputed territory” between Kosovo and Montenegro, where the road is currently closed off—a haunting reminder of the Yugoslav wars.
Depending on who you consult, this land may belong to either Kosovo or Montenegro, or perhaps both. Its lingering status is pending resolution by politicians likely unfamiliar with the area.
For now, the landscape remains untouched by man, embodying an expansive wilderness of mountains, forests, and meadows—truly a testament to the beauty of Europe.
