As global travel has become restricted, we are revisiting past journeys to gain a deeper understanding of various cultures. In this insightful narrative from 2013, Amanda Canning explores the enigmatic land of North Korea to unravel its unique society behind the headlines.
A young woman waits anxiously in the arrivals hall, her expression serious and her appearance meticulously polished in a pink tweed suit. Around her, the airport buzzes with lively chatter as travelers share greetings and laughter.
“Hurry, hurry, we will be late,” urges Mr. O, ushering his tour group onto a minibus, with the pink-suited lady keeping pace at a brisk trot, her heels echoing against the tarmac. Sitting timidly, she observes her fellow passengers—this group of tourists recently arrived from Beijing marks her first interaction with Westerners.
Meeting Miss Kim
Miss Kim, a 21-year-old university student, lives with her teacher mother and translator father in Pyongyang, a city characterized by its lakes and boulevards. In her free time, Miss Kim enjoys dancing, singing in her bedroom, socializing with friends, and is eager to join aerobic classes at a nearby gym.
Having been selected for her intelligence, she is poised to finish her English studies in 18 months. This opportunity allows her to guide a group of foreigners on a week-long journey through her homeland, North Korea—a nation that remains largely secretive and isolated.
Currently, however, Miss Kim feels too shy to express herself among the guests. In contrast, Mr. O, an experienced guide with a captivating storytelling style, entertains the minibus occupants as they traverse Pyongyang. Through the windows, fleeting snapshots of life surface: crowded trams, inquisitive faces, cyclists engaged in conversation, and soldiers marching in orderly lines.
As we approach May Day Stadium, the progress slows amid throngs of students, maneuvering through a parade of luxury cars, while a group of women in sailor outfits practice an energetic drum routine. Mr. O and Miss Kim dart ahead, navigating the parking lot and ascending the stairs toward the stadium, passing souvenir stalls that offer a variety of merchandise.
The Mass Games of Pyongyang
Inside, a large audience has assembled, and the performance is already in full swing. The spectacle presents North Korea’s storied history through a vivid portrayal: from the Japanese occupation to the triumphs over perceived adversaries, culminating in the establishment of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea, the country’s official title.
What unfolds is not a mere presentation; it is an extravaganza. The enormous scale and precision evoke memories of the Beijing Olympics, magnified manifold.
Each evening, around one hundred thousand individuals take part in the Mass Games, showcasing intricate choreography that is mesmerizing. Gymnasts soar effortlessly on zip lines and spring from cannons while countless children juggle and ride unicycles in perfect harmony. Soldiers march in sync, choirs produce powerful voices, and dancers fill the space with kinetic energy. Behind this performance, 20,000 young participants flip through pages of picture books, creating expansive mosaics of vibrant imagery, including suns, battle scenes, and the North Korean flag.
This display continues indefinitely, presenting a sequence of jubilant scenes depicting prosperity and joy. Miss Kim lights up with enthusiasm, gleefully explaining the significance of the performances while clapping along. The vibrant depiction showcases apples dancing in orchards and workers cheerfully creating products. Miss Kim fondly recalls her own childhood participation, musically engaging with her trombone—a memory that brings her joy.
“I felt like an artist, I loved it. I trained hard, but it was exhilarating and I felt proud to represent my country,” she reminisces.
The audience erupts in applause as massive portraits of the country’s leaders emerge on-screen. Miss Kim reflects, “We are a great nation, not due to size or population, but because of our leaders.”
Her voice turns somber as a colossal flower, symbolically named Kimjongilia, is presented amidst a poignant melody, evoking strong emotions.
In this moment, she expresses, “We truly mourn our Dear Leader, who passed away in service to our people. The song will always resonate with us, often bringing tears.”
The Cult of Personality
This glimpse offers insight into the profound cult of personality surrounding Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il. North Koreans prominently wear badges featuring their faces, which take precedence over family portraits in homes.
Inspirational slogans adorn buildings across cities, each narrative reflecting their immense influence. Our journey reveals numerous instances where talking points celebrate the leadership’s benevolence. At an agricultural camp, we learn about a poorly preserved seal, framed as a gift from Kim Jong-il.
Miss Kim watches as jubilant schoolchildren, smartly dressed as Young Pioneers, sing songs dedicated to their leaders. Tourists can only enter North Korea through tightly regulated group tours, and veteran guide Hannah Barraclough observes the paradox of visitors feeling bewildered by the contrast between the North Korean populace’s pride and the predominant narrative back home.
“The reality is that North Koreans are exposed exclusively to positive messages about their leaders—they believe in the narrative presented to them. This mindset is typical when various perspectives are inaccessible.” Hannah noted.
The DMZ
As the minibus glides southward from Pyongyang on Reunification Highway, Miss Kim drifts off to sleep, her guidebook resting on her lap. Mr. O listens to an iPod while the bus passes the occasional army truck, where soldiers wave playfully.
Nearby ox carts laden with hay rattle alongside fields, where women labor under looming billboards offering motivational slogans. The landscape buzzes with activity as pedestrians traverse the streets, emphasizing the interconnectedness of North Korean society.
Concrete barriers line the route, hinting at the heavy militarization ahead. Approaching the DMZ (De-militarized Zone), a stark buffer dividing North from South Korea, Miss Kim embarks on her inaugural visit. Here, tensions remain palpable, as soldiers from both sides maintain a watchful gaze over the boundary.
Pointing to murals and translating slogans advocating for reunification, she is visibly touched, reflecting on the painful separation families endure due to the division of Korea.
Nearby, the wall physically separating the two Koreas rises dramatically over the landscape. Accompanying us is Lieutenant Colonel Chae, who shares narratives of American intervention and North Korean resilience, passionately gesturing toward the demarcation on a map. As Miss Kim finally gazes through binoculars at the infamous “wall of anguish,” she absorbs the historical weight of the moment.
The division has permeated every facet of North Korean culture, from songs to films celebrating the notion of reunification. Young Pioneers energetically arrive at summer camps, engaged in activities with their leaders’ images decorating the premises.
Miss Kim fondly recalls her own experiences at such camps, where the joy of travel and broadening horizons became evident. It marks a significant moment in a child’s life, filled with camaraderie and memories.
The camp’s exhibition pays homage to the leaders, highlighting their numerous contributions. Miss Kim lingers over a particular image of Kim Jong-il, reflecting on his dedication and sacrifices for the welfare of the nation.
National Day
National Day—celebrating the founding of the republic—evokes widespread admiration for the leaders. In Pyongyang, citizens form lines in front of the grand statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il, laying flowers as a gesture of reverence. This annual celebration transforms the city into a vibrant tableau of collective joy.
The atmosphere is jovial as people don their finest attire, celebrating with laughter and chatter after honoring their leaders. Families gather to teach their children new skills, while others enjoy leisurely moments in the park.
Under the watchful eyes of vivid portraits, Miss Kim observes the spirited interactions around her, noting how the populace enjoys their time with family and friends. As the sun sets over Pyongyang, urban landscapes brighten with the energies of a bustling night life.
On Kaeson Youth Park’s rides, Miss Kim’s initial hesitation gives way to thrill as she finally embraces the experience, laughing at her own fears as she navigates the twists and turns of the amusement rides.
As the next morning approaches, Miss Kim is eager and animated, discussing global happenings and her newfound perspectives with tour members. The farewell at the airport becomes an emotional moment as she expresses her feelings of connection.
“Before meeting foreigners, I was anxious. I felt they might judge me. Now, I realize we share the same dreams and feelings. We are more alike than I ever dreamed,” she concludes before disappearing into the crowd, leaving an impactful memory behind.
