Bioluminescent algae cast splintering lacerations of light in the dark waters of the North Sea. Ahead, a gibbous moon paints the seascape in a subtle orange hue as cirrus clouds drift to reveal an almost touchable Milky Way, like Dali painted directly onto the night sky. A northerly gust fills the headsail of the expedition yacht Barba and the boat surges ahead into the waves.
“This is exactly what the Vikings would have experienced over 1,000 years ago,” says our captain, the Norwegian sailor, adventurer and marine biologist Andreas B. Heide. “We should see mainland Norway in a little over 24 hours now.”
The Journey North
Colonised by the Vikings in the 9th century, the 100 islands that comprise the Shetland archipelago provide an ideal setting for a Norse-style adventure with friends Matthew Robertson and Tom Neish from Momentum Life. A 12-hour drive from London, the islands that make up the northernmost point of Great Britain are dramatically treeless, windswept, and weather-hardened, housing just over 20,000 inhabitants.
Serpentine roads traverse the landscape as we navigate through stone villages and farmland, eventually reaching Lerwick, Shetland’s capital. Over the final crest, I gaze down into the harbour and spot the familiar shape of Barba gently moored. Within, captain Heide prepares for the 34-hour voyage ahead. Unlike his ancestors, he leads a party of Brits across the North Sea to explore his homeland; a Viking voyage in reverse, so to speak.
“Permission to come aboard?” I ask as Heide emerges from the cockpit. “Permission granted,” he smiles.
Basking Sharks in Shetland
Marine life thrives in the Shetland Islands, and Heide has spent many weeks exploring its coastal waters for transient orcas, which inhabit here to feed on seals between May and August. However, there’s a rich diversity of species to discover; white-sided dolphins, minke, sperm, and humpback whales, to name just a few.
As Heide remarks, “The strong currents combined with a varied topography, from steep cliffs to sheltered bays, create a safe haven for a wide range of species.” To our astonishment, we learn that basking sharks, the world’s second-largest fish, have been spotted just a half-hour from the harbour. With equipment checks completed, we are ready to set sail from Lerwick harbour.
“I see dorsal fins,” cries Heide from the helm. Ahead, in a secluded bay, two adult basking sharks feed gently on zooplankton, their immense 6-meter, 5-ton mass concealed by the murky water. An expert diver, Heide dons his wetsuit and enters the water. “I’ve never dived with basking sharks before,” he states, pulling the hood over his head. “This is an amazing moment.”
Crossing the North Sea
40 minutes later, Heide returns to Barba. Although visibility was poor, he got incredibly close to the sharks, marking it as a significant success. However, with daylight dwindling and a 34-hour crossing to undertake, he is eager to begin the long sail across the North Sea to Norway. From our position near the coastal community of Quarff, we sail past the large island of Bressay and near the towering 180-meter cliffs of the Isle of Noss to witness one of Great Britain’s largest gannet colonies.
Looking up, the sky darkens under the weight of gannets, and the air fills with the roar of wings echoing off the cold rock. Soon, Heide signals that it’s time to don our specialist sailing gear. I am using this adventure as a chance to test several pieces from the new Land and Sea Collection from Musto.
As evening approaches, we have 200 nautical miles to sail before seeing land again. Heide and I have a history of sailing together, so we agree on 3-hour watch rotations and settle into the routine of life aboard a sailing yacht. With fair 12-knot north-westerly winds propelling us across the sea, our pace is a steady 7 knots (13kph), and the gentle conditions keep seasickness at bay, at least for now. What captivates us most is the deep mauve hue of the setting sun over Shetland and the vast expanse of open sea ahead. It is a timeless experience aboard a sailing boat in open water, evoking a primitive sense of oneness and presence.
I take the first night watch while the crew rests. Although Barba’s technology is state-of-the-art, Heide emphasizes the importance of being vigilant for both boats and debris in the water. “A collision here could have catastrophic consequences,” he warns. No pressure, right? Sitting alone on deck, traveling at 7 knots, surrounded only by the open sea and my thoughts provides a moment of deep catharsis; time surprisingly glides by. At midnight, Heide emerges to take the next watch, and our 3-hours on, 3-hours off rotation continues.
By 10 am the following day, conditions begin to shift. We’re buffeted by swells exceeding 2 meters, coupled with near gales of 28 knots, causing us to roll like ragdolls. Seasickness hits hard, and I’m thankful for my grippy, shock-absorbent boots as we hold on and wait for the storm to pass. Reviewing the wind forecast, Heide anticipates this tumultuous weather to last for up to 4 hours, creating a long and exhausting wait.
It occurs to me that I am fortunate to be clad in Musto‘s Gortex and Primaloft Hybrid Jacket and Pro Series Trousers, which keep me warm and dry during the tempest. I cannot help but ponder how the Vikings endured these conditions—and likely much worse—back in 800AD, and I’m acutely aware of how insignificant we are on this small boat in the North Sea.
“I see a lighthouse,” bellows Heide from the helm 28 hours into our crossing. We emerge on deck and cheer. “Another 6 hours and we’ll reach our mooring location.”
With calmer conditions and the prospect of landfall mere hours away, there’s a tangible sense of excitement onboard. By 5 am, we dock, our legs sway as we regain our balance on solid ground, and we all embrace. Heide notes this as one of the best North Sea crossings he’s ever experienced, and a celebratory beer wraps up this segment of our adventure.
Into the Fjords
As the fatigue from our crossing starts to dissipate, and the warmth of the late August sun soaks into our skin, we set off from our mooring on the islands of Kvitsøy, Norway’s smallest municipality, adorned with traditional fishing cabins. Heide mentions that this area is a popular vacation spot for Norwegians from the nearby town of Stavanger, evidenced by the children sailing and the adults soaking up the morning rays.
We sail further inland, passing Stavanger, Norway’s fourth-largest city, enriched by the oil boom of the 1970s, and into Lysefjord. Along the way, Heide stops at his favorite crab and scallop spot, diving to catch our dinner. Within 30 minutes, he hauls up four brown crabs and nearly 40 scallops. Later, we drop fishing lines, adding 20 mackerel to our seafood feast. Fishing has been a cornerstone of Norway’s economy for over 1,000 years, and currently the country stands as the second-largest seafood exporter globally, with many praising its leading practices in safeguarding the environment and fish stocks for future generations.
Continuing further into the 42 km-long Lysefjord, towering granite walls rise up to 1 km overhead, with water cascading from the nearby Hengjanefossen waterfall. Traditional cabins line the shore, and aside from the occasional motorboat, we find ourselves immersed in nature. Shaped by glaciers during the Ice Age, the entrance of the fjord is merely 13 meters deep yet plunges over 400 meters in some places. I gaze over the stern, wondering what lies beneath the surface.
We moor in the small community of Flørli, and Heide encourages us to hike the nearby trail to Kalleliklumpen boulder. Though our legs ache from days at sea, we push through the steep incline, rewarded with sweeping views over a fjord that appears as if pulled from a Tolkien tale. I take a moment to reflect, nestled among the pines, watching the evening sunlight dance on the water far below, savoring the adventure.
Traveling from Shetland to Norway in the Viking tradition offers a pace rarely experienced today, emphasizing the truth that it is the journey—not merely the destination—that truly matters. Moreover, the camaraderie developed amongst travelers enhances the experience immensely. Beyond the raiding and colonizing, one cannot help but ponder if the Vikings shared the same sentiments.
