Rediscovering Hong Kong: A Dynamic Cultural Journey
In this reflective piece, journalist Fergal Keane returns to Hong Kong 12 years after the end of British rule and finds a city perpetually in flux.
Returning to the Vibrant Harbor
During the final minutes before dawn, the harbor is enveloped in mist, softening the sounds of the city. Waiting for the iconic Star Ferry, I observe the blinking lights of tugboats around a cruise ship, accompanied by the distant sound of fog horns. At this time of day, the city exhales the lingering warmth of the night, a blend of moisture mixed with the scent of the harbor waters.
Experiencing the thrill of being back is overwhelming. This city once beckoned to me in a moment of despair. Transitioning from my role as a BBC Southern Africa correspondent to an Asia-focused assignment filled me with nostalgia for the African vistas I had left behind. The birth of my first child during the last year of British dominance further deepened my bond with this vibrant location. As I bonded with local Chinese friends, I discovered that Hong Kong was not merely divided into two distinct worlds—one bustling with business, the other rooted in Confucian values—but was a complex tapestry of many diversely intertwined lives.
Joyful Rides on the Star Ferry
I feel a childlike joy while traversing Victoria Harbour on the Star Ferry. The sturdy vessels, though not elegant, have been operating since the late 19th century, thanks to pioneers like Dorabjee Dowrajee, who founded the Kowloon Ferry Company in 1888. Named after poetic musings of Tennyson, the ferry service embraces both the spirit of adventure and the quest for meaning in Hong Kong’s splendid waters.
Upon arriving at the “Hong Kong side,” I am immediately enveloped by the energy of Wan Chai Market, where an array of dried seafood, some thought to have medicinal properties, shares space with colorful imitations of designer underwear. A little over £1 can procure tantalizing treats such as starfish, all while wearing the finest garments from a nearby mainland factory.
The Market Experience
As I navigate Bowrington Road, I am greeted by a lively collection of fish stalls where fresh seafood wiggles and flops in large tanks. The vibrant sounds of Cantonese chatter fill the air as traders passionately negotiate with suppliers. The local enthusiasm for seafood is palpable—shoppers are demanding and sellers are vying to present the fittest catch for the best price.
Interestingly, many stalls are operated by older individuals who would be considered retired in the West. An elderly woman pushes through the bustling crowd, her cart filled with fresh vegetables, guiding the situation with a commanding presence. Nearby, a group of elderly patrons energetically engages in conversation, embodying the spirit of youthful exuberance within their community.
Noodles for Breakfast: A Local Tradition
One of my favorite noodle shops awaits me just around the corner. At Dickie Kwong’s place, breakfast is a lively showcase of culinary mastery. Packed diners consume flavorful noodles infused with fish balls, pork, or chicken, all while maintaining a delicate balance of chopsticks and elbows in the snug space. The cut-throat competition for fast service and delectable flavor is reflected on the bustling streets outside.
Dickie’s restaurant embodies affordability in tough economic times. He, like many of his customers, grew up hearing tales of hardship after his family fled mainland China during the Communist takeover. Reassuringly, he shares how business is flourishing post the demonstrations that bolstered local confidence and optimism for the future.
Reflections in Happy Valley
For a unique perspective of the city’s evolution, one can visit Happy Valley Cemetery, located just across from the race course. The graves reflect the resilience that has shaped Hong Kong’s identity, where the roots of Western mahogany trees embrace memorials to sailors, soldiers, and missionaries who contributed to the city’s ambitious journey.
As I stroll through the cemetery, the hum of urban life fades into the distance. A dedicated local woman tends to the graves, which carry the weight of history, while a nearby monument remembers those who lost their lives battling pirates off the coast. The cemetery stands testament not only to colonial memories but also to the tumultuous relationship between China and the West, weaving through scores of narratives spanning opium trade, valor, and sacrifice.
Visiting Temples: Finding Serenity
This reflective journey prepares travelers for a visit to Man Mo Temple, situated above the bustling Central Business District. The path leads through luxury shops and restaurants, where the collision of historical aspirations and traditional barter culture paints a vivid picture of modern Hong Kong.
An escalator smoothly ascends to the temple, passing bustling dining establishments full of trading expatriates. Arriving at Man Mo, a small crowd observes traditional rituals of offerings, including burning imitation money for ancestors. The atmosphere fills with incense smoke, creating a unique ambiance of spirituality and connection to the past.
The Antique Market: A Fascination with History
Across from the temple, the antique dealers line Cat Street, showcasing a modest volume of sales. Visitors, primarily from the mainland, exhibit a much more stylish appearance compared to previous years. The abundance of Maoist memorabilia intrigues, and while many express surprise at such items finding a market today, Mr. Ming at his stall simply sees it as business.
As I walk through the city, the encroaching density becomes palpable. Amidst the hustle and bustle, the serenity of the outlying islands is irresistible. Counting 262 islands further afield, I am drawn to one in particular—Kat O—one of the smallest yet most tranquil.
An Escape to Kat O Island
Reaching Kat O requires a scenic taxi ride to Wong Shek Pier. My travel companion, Choi Li Hung, and I marvel at the lush landscape, devoid of towering buildings. A speedboat ferry awaits us, transporting to that serene destination for approximately £80, a small fortune well worth the experience.
The allure of Kat O is tied to its tranquil atmosphere and the lightness one experiences when escaping the urban crowd. Surrounded by stilt houses inhabited by fish farmers, everything feels right in this corner of the world. Warm-clear water invites playful interactions with fluttering fish beneath the boat.
A Retreat to Simplicity
Spanning just 2.3 square kilometers, Kat O was once home to hundreds but now hosts merely 50 residents—a testament to migration trends. The Hakka and Tanka fishing clans work harmoniously along this coastal paradise, their villages whispering tales of a simpler time.
At the end of the pier lies Wing Gei and Aida’s little shop serving as both restaurant and local retreat. A charming sign bids visitors to help themselves if the owners are away, embodying the spirit of community.
Wing Gei welcomes us with open arms and steaming cups of tea, sharing insights on his quiet life amongst nature. He describes the local ethos of trust and familiarity that allows for a crime-free, peaceful existence. A sense of nostalgia fills the air as narratives emerge about past attempts by residents to aid refugees across the waters from China.
We encounter a local couple preparing cashew nuts in a rustic outdoor oven, providing yet another glimpse into the dedication of this island community. With rich tradition rooted in history, the Hakka people have defended their identity on this land through generations.
As we ascend the island, we take in the stunning vistas—the sight of black kites overhead contrasted with the distant industrial landscape across the water deepens the charm of our surroundings. As hunger strikes, we return to Wing Gei for a delightful meal of fresh fish dishes that encapsulate the flavors of Kat O. Our laughter resonates against this idyllic backdrop, yet as our time dwindles, I promise to return to this tranquil paradise.
This article originally appeared in the May 2009 issue of GoTravelDaily Magazine.
