“How do you feel about spirituality and remote nature?” Aminaa asks. My eyes are already wandering far beyond the city, where I can see the sun set behind brown mountain ranges in a mystical golden glow.
I arrive in Mongolia, the Land of the Eternal Blue Sky, in October. A friend recommended two experienced travel guides who would be going for their last trip of the season in the far north and Aminaa and her husband Khuyagaa meet me at the airport of Ulaanbaatar. Our travel plans include driving up north to the Taiga to camp in the valley of their ancestors, meeting nomadic families, ancient shamans, and trekking towards the legendary reindeer herder tribes. This trip is set to take me to the heart of Mongolian culture and possibly even further.
Entering the Enchanted Valley
Darkhad Valley is anything but accessible. After two days of driving – three-quarters of which are spent off-road through rocky valleys and cow-grazed mountains – we near Tsagaannuur, the village on the shores of the White Lake. At the entrance of the valley stand shamanic totems, giant teepee-shaped cones made of colorful textile stripes battered by the wind.
By the time we reach the village itself, we have already passed into another world. We see mirror lakes where waters cannot be distinguished from the sky. Snow-capped mountains loom before the horizon. Our host Tsendmaa welcomes us with a hot pan of horsemeat (organs included) and homemade flat noodles. I learn that horsemeat is consumed in wintertime because it generates body heat.
A large ger (yurt) has been set at the back of Tsendmaa’s house for guests. Sleeping in a ger is part of experiencing the nomadic lifestyle, although I will learn later that nomads don’t stay in gers all year round. This one prides itself on having proper beds and pillows, extra blankets, and a big oven at the center that keeps us extra-warm during long hours spent chatting, cooking, and sharing meals. It feels almost luxurious!
Horse Trekking with Nomadic Riders
Over the next couple of days, we prepare for our expedition to meet the Tsaatan, the reindeer herder tribe of East Taiga. We don’t know yet if they have already left their summer camp; nevertheless, we set out to our first stop, a few miles up on a plateau. We meet Erdene and his wife Tuvshin, who welcome us into their wooden cabin adorned with warm-toned carpets and blankets featuring traditional patterns. As usual, the central hearth serves as both heater and oven. It is where Tuvshin prepares hot milk tea served to everyone entering the house. Traditionally, Mongolian homes are open to visitors any time of the day, and milk tea is always ready to be shared.
Finally, Aminaa and Khuyagaa receive news of the reindeer herders; they are beyond the forest, reachable only on horse or reindeer. “The number one rule is to avoid any brisk moves. These horses are semi-wild and can easily get spooked. The best practice is to trust them with your navigation since they know the terrain across the Taiga,” we are informed.
I am given an experienced horse. We must familiarize ourselves with each other to efficiently cross forests, slippery riverbeds, and marshes together. Six of us, plus a horse carrying our equipment, set off toward the reindeer herders’ settlement.
Meeting the Reindeer Herders of East Taiga
The trek to the camp lasts four to five hours. Followed by Tuvshin’s dogs, we ride across forests that gradually lose their fall colors and turn darker. Nevertheless, the eternal blue sky above us imbues the vast landscapes with a warm, protective atmosphere. While absorbed in the magnificence of our surroundings, I catch a glimpse of a rider appearing from behind the trees, mounted on a tall reindeer with enormous antlers. My heart skips a beat; this feels like a scene straight from my childhood dreams.
We finally reach the bottom of the valley. Across the frozen river, the herders’ teepees become visible through the branches. Young reindeer are tied to wooden logs to keep them from wandering off, and when we approach to play, they happily nuzzle their antlers against our arms and legs. This is the time of year when they shed their antler skin, so they soothe their itch by rubbing against anything available.
As the sun sets over the teepees, the adult reindeer return to camp with their herders. Some of the reindeer have large antlers, and golden sunlight pierces through them. I feel as if I have been waiting my entire life for such a moment with these majestic animals. Quietly, they lay down on the ground, gazing at us peacefully.
The following day, my greatest joy is mounting a reindeer and covering my hands with salt to entice them to come close and lick my palms; salt is a delightful treat for them. My guides jest about marrying me off to a reindeer herder!
I spend the remainder of my trip in northern Mongolia with a smile on my face. Words can hardly capture the privilege I felt traveling and discovering such a unique, rugged, yet welcoming lifestyle alongside its insiders. This way of life is rapidly disappearing due to climate change, as reindeer find it increasingly difficult to find food in the Taiga. Mongolians predict that in less than two generations, these tribes may vanish completely.
As we leave the enchanted valley in the vehicle driving back to Ulaanbaatar, my traveler’s heart is overflowing with happiness and wonder. I even begin to contemplate that if I were to stop traveling now, I would graciously accept it. This journey to what feels like the edge of the world has allowed me to sense that I have experienced and felt it all. I would be content to return home.
