The Journey of a Solo Cyclist from London to Istanbul
On the morning of May 22 last year, I had just finished loading my bicycle with panniers carrying a tent, a sleeping bag, cooking equipment, and some clothes. With a mix of nerves and excitement growing in my stomach, I began to pedal away from the suburban London home I grew up in – targeting the vibrant city of Istanbul.
People told me I was crazy. Perhaps I was a little, but arriving in Istanbul after three months of cycling made me feel on top of the world; alive and knowing I’m capable of anything. It was a journey that saw me follow some of Europe’s greatest rivers, pass through some of its best cities, and witness breathtaking scenery.
As you might expect, I discovered a lot about both Europe and myself during my time on the road. Here are 10 things I learned along the way.
1. Serbia is Home to Incredibly Friendly People
For reasons that can only be filed under “stereotypes,” Serbia caused concern regarding my decision to cycle there. I had repeatedly been told to “be careful” because Serbia is perceived as an “unsafe” country. Consequently, I crossed the border feeling quite defensive. Everyone was so wrong. Never have I visited a country whose citizens were so kind and fiercely hospitable. People waved and shouted hello or “welcome to Serbia!” as I cycled past. One afternoon, I pulled up at a petrol station to buy a drink, and a truck driver insisted on gifting me some oranges.
2. It’s Not So Bad Being Vulnerable
I quickly learned that as a solo traveler, especially as a young woman, people were concerned for my safety. When they saw me – a small, young female cycling alone – they considered me vulnerable, and they’d readily make it their business to look after me. “Do you need any water?” or “Would you like some help putting up your tent?” Despite the feminist in me, I appreciated that help was readily available should I need it.
3. France is Excellent for Cycling
France gets a lot right for cyclists. For one, we’re not seen as an inconvenience like in the UK. Motorists in France give cyclists space and respect, contrasting with my father’s experience of having a pint of milk thrown at him while cycling through London. It’s almost as though France was built for cyclists; I enjoyed well-signposted, pristine roads, dedicated bike lanes, and scenic voie verte (green ways). Sometimes, the roads felt silky, allowing my tires to glide effortlessly over them. Bliss.
4. Riding a Bike is the Best Form of Therapy
Life on a bike is straightforward. You can only carry the essentials. Each evening, I set up my tent and cooked myself a meal on my camp stove. Living simply for a while allowed me to appreciate what I had. Cycling alone provided ample time for reflection, helping me address past issues. I experienced a wide mix of emotions during my time on the road; loneliness, joy, liberation, pride, and anxiety. It was quite the character-builder, enhancing both my confidence and independence.
5. The Bicycle Touring Community is Incredible
Using a popular route for much of my journey – the EuroVelo 6 – I met numerous bicycle tourists. Cyclists love to converse with fellow cyclists; it’s easy to assume they’ll want to discuss bikes. Many campsites along EuroVelo 6 were filled with bike tourists, and I was often invited to join for dinner or have a chat. It felt like being part of a community. As I headed further east, EuroVelo 6 became less populated with cyclists, and when I spotted one, we’d often wave at each other a bit too enthusiastically.
6. Austria is Breathtakingly Beautiful
I had expected Austria to be lovely, but I was astounded by its true beauty. The segment of my route from the Austrian border with Germany to Vienna is one of the most memorable parts of my journey. I pedaled along the Danube river, passing terraced vineyards, apricot orchards, forests, gorges, and scenic farmland. A real highlight was stopping at a town called Melk, home to a spectacular Benedictine monastery overlooking the river.
7. Sweat, Sunscreen + Cycling = A Bad Combination
Cycling through Europe in the summer was occasionally sweltering, particularly during a heatwave. Sunscreen was a necessity. Unfortunately, cycling in the heat meant clouds of small insects, dust, and dirt would stick to my sweaty, sunscreen-covered skin for most of the day. The despair of arriving at a campsite without working showers still lingers in my memory.
8. Cycling is the Best Way to Discover a Country
The reality of bicycle touring is that you travel slowly through a region rather than jumping from hotspot to hotspot. I experienced some tedious evenings in France where the village I stayed in offered nothing but a shop, a pharmacy, and a post office. I also spent three days cycling through seemingly endless wheat fields in Hungary. On the other hand, I uncovered many things that most tourists often miss. As Ernest Hemingway once said, “it is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best,” and I wholeheartedly agree. I noticed fine details and truly immersed myself in my surroundings.
9. The World is Inherently Good
Despite daily warnings about the dangers of my journey, nothing harmful occurred. In fact, nothing bad even almost happened. Daily encounters were filled with kindness, generosity, and courtesy. Most people want you to enjoy their country and often go out of their way to ensure this. Despite popular belief, the world isn’t out to get you.
10. If I Can Do This, So Can You
I am not a particularly brave person, nor am I particularly strong-willed. Therefore, I truly believe that if you desire to take on a challenge like this, you probably can! The sights and adventures you’ll experience daily will make the distance seem almost irrelevant. You’ll need a true desire to overcome the challenge and ample time; if you’re less able, consider using an e-bike. The initial weeks were challenging as my body adjusted to 7-hour days in the saddle, but afterward, I felt superhuman. By the trip’s end, I cycled over 55 miles (90km) a day across hilly Bulgaria.
Europe is incredibly diverse with so much to see, and I can’t think of a better way to explore it than on a bicycle.
