Unforgettable Campervan Adventure in Scotland

Travel writer Hanna Summers revisits her campervan trip to Scotland, discovering the serene North Atlantic beaches blissfully free of the traffic, worries, and crowds she left behind in London.

We had no fixed destination, which was the beauty of our journey. My boyfriend and I traded our comfortable London bed for a VW campervan, stuffing our cherished belongings – pillows, puffer jackets, and tea bags – into its boot and cabinets.

We took the first single-track road available (it didn’t matter which one), turned up the music, and drove alongside fields of golden heather. We stopped occasionally to let snoozing sheep saunter off the road, slowing down to capture snapshots of scarecrows draped in high-vis jackets.

Then we rounded a corner and encountered it. There, before us on the rugged and remote Outer Hebridean island of Lewis, was the most dazzling sweep of cream sand, its boundary kissed by small fluoro-green waves, its edges flanked by steel-grey rocks. We slammed to a halt, kicked off our trainers, and ran towards the icy water – our footprints the only traces on the sand, our feet the first to touch the North Atlantic that day.

The beach felt impossible to leave, and so we didn’t. We parked on a patch of grass and enjoyed cans of strong beer while the sky transitioned from a bright cyan to a dusty magenta and finally to a star-studded black. With no lights, no traffic, and no mobile-phone reception, there were no worries or hassles. Refreshingly, there were no people either. That night, we drifted to sleep listening to the soothing sound of wind skimming the water and waves gently lapping against the sand. The next morning? A brew with a view – one I’ll always treasure.

A Remarkable Experience

It turns out that some of the world’s best beaches dot the British coastline I have always yearned to leave behind. Every day, I crave the simplicity, freedom, and flexibility of living in that van and our 24-hour stay parked near that idyllic beach close to the tiny village of Bhaltos.

Planning Your Trip

Campervan holidays are increasingly popular in the UK, with a surge of new websites offering short- and long-term rentals. Quirky Campers provides uniquely crafted campers located in London, Bristol, and Scotland.

Ferries to the Isle of Lewis depart from Ullapool, situated on the northwest coast of Scotland, approximately a 4½ hour drive from Glasgow. Consider taking a morning crossing to arrive in Stornoway, the island’s capital, 2½ hours later (buy tickets online in advance through Caledonian MacBrayne for the best prices).

Responsible wild camping is permissible in most parts of Scotland, eliminating the need to book campsites – simply find a suitable location and settle in respectfully. The small community-owned village of Bhaltos can be reached by heading west from Stornoway along the A858, then south at Garrynahine on the B80011, eventually taking the turning north signposted for Cnip. You will recognize the beach when you see it. Be aware that there are no shops, petrol stations, or lights in that area of the Isle of Lewis – so ensure to purchase supplies and fill up in Stornoway, along with having sufficient water on board and camping essentials, including torches.

This journey exemplifies the freedom and beauty of exploring Scotland’s breathtaking landscapes, particularly by campervan. Embrace the adventure and experience the tranquility of its shores.