Photographer and writer Laura Watilo Blake and her husband adopted their daughter from Colombia, and they routinely return to explore this vibrant country that has become an essential part of their family story. On a recent trip, they sought out a natural wonder that was inaccessible to most tourists just a few years ago.
It’s a place brimming with legends and vibrant rainbows. However, until about ten years ago, Caño Cristales was deep in FARC territory. Now, my husband and I are excited to bring our five-year-old daughter to La Macarena, Colombia, to witness the astonishing crystal-clear river, which appears red from late June to November due to the blooming of a rare aquatic plant called Macarenia Clavigera.
The adventure to this off-the-beaten-path location rivals the narratives found in the storybooks that adorn my daughter’s shelf. Nevertheless, navigating miles upriver with rain lashing our faces, traversing a bumpy road carved from the jungle, and trudging through muddy trails presents a real challenge, exceeding the typical family travel hurdles.
Getting There is Half the Battle
Our journey almost encounters a major setback before we even leave the United States due to a shortage of the yellow fever vaccine, which is mandatory for all passengers on flights to La Macarena. If we had traveled to Colombia at least 10 days prior to our flight, we could have easily received a complimentary yellow fever vaccine at El Dorado International Airport in Bogotá, which has a dedicated travel clinic. Unfortunately, this was not an option for us. To complicate matters, my husband and I had the vaccine years ago but discarded the yellow Certificate of Yellow Fever Vaccination after its 10-year validity expired.
Since 2016, the vaccine has been validated for life, meaning had we held onto our certificate, we would only need to obtain a replacement. Meanwhile, our daughter Kinley—being Colombian—already has her vaccine documented; however, we only had a copy of that certificate. Fortunately, a friend in Bogotá was able to assist us in retrieving the original certificate, which was especially helpful as she and her family joined us on this trip.
After confirming our vaccinations, I planned our accommodations six months in advance at the Hotel San Nicolás in La Macarena, collaborating closely with Adriana from A.S. Hotels & Tours to confirm that the itinerary would be appropriate for our daughter. Although she firmly advises against families with children under five attempting this terrain, Adriana assures me that there are shorter, more manageable paths in the park that younger visitors can enjoy. Additionally, she assists us with securing tours, guides, and the requisite permits to enter the Parque Nacional Natural Sierra de la Macarena.
The Colombian authorities regulate the number of daily visitors to each sector of the park to safeguard its delicate ecosystem. Consequently, a maximum of 452 people can visit each day, with only 172 permitted in the Caño Cristales sector at any given time. Most slots are allocated to local tour agencies. Officially recognized tour operators are listed in the national park’s official guide to Caño Cristales. It’s also feasible to request permits via email from Parques Nacionales and Regional Macarena, but you must arrange your own guide in La Macarena, as independent access to the park is prohibited.
With our permits and tours confirmed and the deposit paid, we purchased our tickets through Satena Airlines, the only airline operating flights into La Macarena. The airline provides services from Bogotá every Wednesday, Friday, Sunday, and occasionally on Mondays during holidays. By booking our hotel, airfare, and tours separately, we saved hundreds of dollars. However, for those looking to simplify their journey, a plethora of three-day, two-night packages are available that encompass airfare, lodging, guided tours, permits, taxes, and meals.
Touching Down in La Macarena
Our tightly packed itinerary prompts visitors to wear their hiking clothes from the very beginning, including on the flight to La Macarena, a secluded settlement nestled in Meta. As we disembark the plane and step into the tropical heat, we’re dressed in long-sleeved shirts and long pants.
It is vital to note that neither sunscreen nor insect repellent is allowed in the park, as these substances can harm the plants we have traveled so far to see. This policy is reinforced during our mandatory visit to the Cormacarena office, where sustainable tourism practices are enforced, and where we learn about human impact on the ecosystem. Visitors are required to wear wristbands for entry.
True excitement ignites later when our group of seven, along with our guide Rigo Cifuentes Acebedo and a boat driver, board a motorized canoe heading upriver for our first of three trips into the park via the Guayabera River. Each day, Rigo points out various creatures along the way, particularly numerous birds and monkeys, as well as the occasional sloth curled comfortably around a tree branch extending over the river.
The lengths of our trips vary depending on the specific areas of the park we are permitted to access each day. In the event of inclement weather, Rigo skillfully adjusts our itinerary as needed, securing permits for alternative activities. Despite getting caught in tropical rain showers, we easily forget our discomfort when radiant rainbows bloom on the horizon.
The majestic river known as Caño Cristales originates high in the Serrania de la Macarena, a mountain range uniquely positioned where the Andes, the Amazon Rainforest, and the Eastern Plains meet. This geographic uniqueness becomes evident during our first day at Cristalitos, a smaller tributary of Caño Cristales. After our canoe pulls up beneath a stunning waterfall, we embark on a hike up a forested trail along the mountainside. Kinley makes her way over the rocks with ease, only occasionally needing assistance from us or our guide.
Upon reaching the summit, we take in breathtaking panoramic views of the river unraveling in both directions. It is an excellent vantage point to appreciate the unique geography of the region. We then trek across a shadeless páramo, characterized by low shrubs, grasses, and even a few palm trees. An hour later, we finally glimpse a shallow stream adorned with the vibrant scarlet macarenia clavigera native to this area. Frequently misidentified as algae, this plant belongs to the botanical family Podostemaceae.
Bending down for a closer look at the unusual plant, we observe it clinging to the rocks while pulsing with the currents, reminiscent of alveoli filtering oxygen in human lungs. Notably, while the plant dazzles in bright red under the sun, it remains a whitish-green in shaded areas. These striking hues, coupled with the yellowish sand, black rocks, lush greenery, and blue skies, lend to Caño Cristales its many nicknames: the “river of 5 colors,” the “liquid rainbow,” and “the river that escaped from paradise.”
Being mindful of not disturbing the rare flora, we follow the stream to a deeper section of water where we dive in for refreshing swims—a daily routine that Kinley absolutely enjoys. Notably, it is here in this enchanting environment that she truly flourishes, receiving encouraging comments from other visitors, with cheerful exclamations such as, “¡Ella es muy valiente!”—meaning “she’s very brave!”
Kinley’s sense of courage shines on our second day while trekking to remarkable rock formations known as Ciudad de Piedra (City of Rock). In the midst of traversing the muddy path, she gets stuck and tumbles face-first into the gooey muck beneath the towering tropical plants that loom over us, making us feel as small as leaf-cutter ants. With undeniable resilience, she springs back up, removes her mud-splattered leggings, and resumes her journey down the trail in her bathing suit, exuding endless energy that outpaces the rest of our group.
On the morning of our return flight to Bogotá, we squeezed in one last brief excursion into the park, visiting some of its most iconic spots, including El Tapete, Piscina del Turista, Piscina de Carol Cristal, and Los Ochos.
This final journey requires a short boat ride followed by a jarring 25-minute drive by 4×4 along a rough road hastily built by the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC) to expedite the transportation of drugs, weapons, and supplies. Beginning in the early 2000s, the military undertook efforts to reclaim control of this region, and now that same road accommodates eco-tourists seeking to experience Colombia’s enchanting natural treasures.
Although soldiers continue to patrol the riverbanks as a precaution against remote dangers, the current risks posed by climate change and visitor overuse pose greater threats to this unique blood-red river. We feel fortunate to experience the beauty of Caño Cristales during our family adventure—a story we will cherish for the rest of our lives. As our 22-seat propeller plane ascends into the sky, we reflect on an unforgettable journey back to Bogotá while eagerly anticipating our next escapades to come.
