Japan has a long history of brewing. Before it was the modern paste, miso was brewed as a sauce from fermented grain and fish during the Neolithic era (14,000-300BCE). Rice wine, commonly referred to as sake outside Japan, was first brewed around 500 CE. Tea was introduced to Japan from China during the Nara period (710-794 CE), and Japanese soy sauce brewers have been in operation since around 1580 CE.
However, the brew that tops them all in Japan is beer.
It is no surprise that a city renowned for the precise flavors, textures, and presentation of kaiseki cuisine and a rich history of entertainment and nightlife has embraced craft beer. While great ji-biru (local beer) varieties can be found throughout Japan, Kyoto stands out as an exceptional destination for craft beer enthusiasts. The city offers an array of beers, from drafts to bottles and cans, all inspired by Dutch and Belgian brews and utilizing local ingredients. If you’re eager to learn where to try some of Kyoto’s best beers, read on.
Ji-biru is Back
Japan’s top four brewers—Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo, and Suntory—have been producing pilsner-style lagers since the late 1800s, following the flavor profile introduced by Dutch traders in the 17th century. It wasn’t until the industry was deregulated in 1994 that microbreweries could enter the Japanese beer scene.
By 1997, the ji-biru business was thriving, with over 300 new craft breweries offering IPAs, ales, stouts, and seasonal selections. However, by 2009, the novelty had diminished, leading to a third of them closing their doors.
Part of the issue was a lack of brewing experience in Japan, as homebrewing has been heavily regulated; one must obtain a license to brew anything over 1% ABV. Nevertheless, through the Craft Beer Association and the rise of Japanese beer festivals, brewers have had opportunities to connect and share knowledge, thus reviving the craft beer culture across the country.
Craft beer bars are now ubiquitous in cities like Tokyo and Osaka. However, Kyoto is carving its niche, creating a local flavor in the craft beer scene, one ji-biru brewery and craft beer bar at a time.
1. Kyoto Beer Lab
At Kyoto Beer Lab, traditional Japanese tea meets modern craft beer. Leaves sourced from a nearby 800-year-old tea farm join grain, hops, yeast, and water in the brewery’s award-winning beers.
Here, you’ll discover their flagship Hojicha Roasted Tea Stout (7.2% ABV, 25 IBU, 3.8/5 on Untappd) and Green Tea Pale Ale (5% ABV, 30 IBU, 3.63/5 on Untappd) alongside trendier offerings like Wasabi Gose (5% ABV, 10 IBU, 3.8/5 on Untappd) and Blackbeard’s Booty, a rum raisin-infused pastry stout with a robust 9.2% ABV (31 IBU, 3.97/5 on Untappd).
Conveniently located just two blocks from Shosei-en Garden and the Kikoku-tei’s tea houses, Kyoto Beer Lab features eight taps and a kitchen serving small plates like beef sashimi and bacon from Hiro, the renowned local butcher.
2. Kyoto Brewing Company
Dark beers have traditionally faced challenges in Japan. Despite the rich, complex flavors of many porters and stouts, the deep color can be frowned upon. Nevertheless, craft breweries like Kyoto Brewing Company aim to change this perception, offering styles like Kuroshio No Gotoku, or “Like the Black Tide” (4.8% ABV, 30 IBU, 3.6/5 on Untappd).
This brewery is a collaboration of Welsh, American, and Canadian partners. They produce the esteemed Ichii Senshin, or “Heart and Soul,” a Belgian-style IPA (6.5% ABV, 55 IBU, 3.64/5 on Untappd) and Ichigo Ichie, or “One for a While,” a farmhouse saison (5.9% ABV, 39 IBU, 3.6/5 on Untappd).
Enjoy these selections in the brewery’s tap room, housed in a former lumber yard just a 10-minute walk from Tō-ji Temple.
3. Ichijoji Brewery
Founded by psychiatrist Shunsuke Takagi to provide job opportunities for individuals with mental illness, Ichijoji Brewery aims to create beers for “people who want to live in their own way.” Initially focused on fruit and spice beers, Ichijoji expanded its offerings following a renovation in 2016.
Today, their most popular brew is the English-style IPA called Destroy Angel (6.4% ABV, 60 IBU, 3.53/5 on Untappd), which has earned an International Beer Cup Gold Award.
Dr. Takagi’s business partner, restaurateur Ban Katsunobu, spent several years enhancing the brewery’s tap room selections, recently hosting a beer-and-oyster pairing event that showcased raw oysters with stouts and fried oysters with golden ales.
4. Spring Valley Brewery
Spring Valley Brewery, leveraging Kyoto-grown hops and malt, pairs traditional Japanese ingredients like yuzu, sansho, and black soybean tea with experimental brews. This establishment is part of megabrewery Kirin, which was originally named Spring Valley when it opened in 1869.
Begin your tasting journey with vibrant options like Jazzberry fruit beer (4.8% ABV, 15 IBU, 3.34/5 on Untappd) or KYO Yuzu Sparkling (5% ABV, 10 IBU, 3.64/5 on Untappd). Continue with the spiced Gin’s Botanicals IPA, crafted in collaboration with Culmination Brewing (6.5% ABV, 0 IBU, 3.62/5 on Untappd). Explore further with the bourbon barrel-aged strong ale, First Crossing (5.2% ABV, 31 IBU, 3.56/5 on Untappd), and conclude with the delectable “brewer’s dessert,” the Cauldron (13% ABV, 5 IBU, 3.35/5 on Untappd).
Additionally, Spring Valley offers a substantial food menu, and one intriguing way to sample their craft beers is through their pairing set, which features six small snacks matched with their beers. A macaron pairing option is also available, catering to those with a sweet palate.
5. Woodmill Brewery
Similar to Japanese chefs’ focus on enhancing premium ingredients, the brewers at Woodmill Brewery prioritize quality. Their Kyoto Raw Material Preparation Series has featured esteemed Hassaku oranges in the Hassaku White witbier (4.5% ABV, 0 IBU, 3.43/5 on Untappd) and honey sourced from the 1,300-year-old Kasagidera Buddhist temple in their Kasagi Honey Ale (5.5% ABV, 18 IBU, 3.63/5 on Untappd).
For a truly unique experience, consider trying Woodmill’s sushi and beer pairings or other Kyoto-style combinations like crunchy vegetable and potato salad served alongside their award-winning Yawaragi Relaxation IPA (5% ABV, 55 IBU, 3.35/5 on Untappd).
6. Craft Man Beer House
With 25 different nama-bīru (draft beer) selections, Craft Man has the largest offering in town. This establishment provides local Kyoto brews as well as selections from across the country, allowing you to sample a diverse range of Japanese beers in one spot.
In contrast to the vibrant decor of many bars filled with colorful logos, Craft Man adopts a zen approach. All 25 taps boast identical black handles resting against a golden wood backdrop. The bartenders impressively memorize every beer and are graciously amused when patrons test their knowledge.
The downstairs bar features a menu of small plates, while a full restaurant on Craft Man’s second floor offers hearty dishes designed to complement the craft beers.
