Discover Sustainable Travel in Japan’s Setouchi Region
Many travellers to Japan follow the same route, using their JR train pass to go between key cities including Tokyo, Kyoto and Hiroshima. Tokyo will of course be even busier than usual during the summer Olympics, and Kyoto is known to suffer from significant crowds. Therefore, if you’re looking to invest your tourist money in a more sustainable way, consider some slow travel in western Japan’s Setouchi region. From visiting temples to engaging with the Japanese art scene, here are the best ways for travellers to support local communities in and around the Seto Inland Sea.
Take the Pilgrimage to the 88 Temples of Shikoku
One of the top activities on the island of Shikoku is the pilgrimage to the 88 temples of Shikoku. The busiest time for pilgrims is March and April, with a smattering of tourists throughout the year. In contrast, temples like those in Kōya-san near Osaka are much easier to access but consequently much more crowded. Whether you are keen on temple architecture or want to learn more about the various sects of Buddhism, the tranquility here makes the experience incredibly enriching. Unlike some temples in Kyoto, these are all free to visit.
The complete pilgrimage route is approximately 1400 km long, circling the whole of Shikoku. Each of the 88 temples is family-run and has its own unique characteristics, although all are dedicated to the Buddhist priest Kōbō Daishi. The route can be completed by car over a couple of weeks, or you could sample one section of it at a time. Start in Naruto, where the walking distances between the first five temples are fairly small, making it accessible for those who may not wish to walk extensively. Pilgrims often undertake the journey over several years, returning repeatedly to explore new sections. Additionally, it is worth noting that unlike some other pilgrimages, there is no requirement to walk the entire route; some visitors simply prefer to drive.
Cycle the Islands of Ōshima and Ōmi-shima along the Shimanami Kaidō
The Shimanami Kaidō consists of a scenic 70 km-long cycle route that connects Imabari in Ehime Prefecture with Onomichi via a series of islands, roads, and cycle paths. The bridges, which opened in 1999, made it easier for visitors to access individual islands by car. However, this accessibility has led to a decline in tourists who choose to stay overnight. Day-trippers often explore sections of the cycle route, and enthusiastic cyclists can easily complete it in a few hours, but to truly appreciate the area, it is recommended to take your time and explore.
On Ōshima island, divert up the steep hills to Kiro-san Observation Park for breathtaking panoramic views of the bridges and islands of the Inland Sea. As you cycle along, explore the coastal routes, rich with legends of helpful 16th-century pirates guiding trade ships through unpredictable currents.
Experience Sustainable Tourism at Ōmi-shima
Ōmi-shima is a delightful destination that encourages visitors to linger. An ongoing sustainable initiative called Project Omishima aims to bolster tourism while fostering a strong sense of community identity. Architect Toyo Ito spearheads the project, and the Toyo Ito Museum of Architecture, a striking building on a clifftop, showcases the stories of local residents and their connection to the island’s captivating nature. Additional local enterprises include Ikoinoie, which transforms an elementary school into comfortable guest accommodations, and a winery where guests can sample local produce. Wander over to the Ōmi-shima Wine Bar along the main walkway to Ōyamazumi-jinja, a Shintō shrine with a collection of ancient artifacts. Art enthusiasts should not miss the Tokoro Museum and the architectural wonder that is Ken Iwata’s Mother and Child Museum.
Bike hire along the Shimanami Kaidō starts from ¥1100 per day, plus deposit. Bicycles can be returned at any of the bike hire terminals along the route; however, failing to return the bike incurs a loss of your deposit. Keep in mind that the inclines leading up to the bridges are long and steep, along with many other hilly sections along the route. Therefore, considering an e-bike may be beneficial, especially if you plan on cycling up to Kiro-san.
Enjoy Relaxing Moments on the Kasaoka Islands
If your goal is to embrace the slow-paced island life, look beyond Ō-shima near Tokyo or Shōdo-shima near Okayama, and instead venture to the tranquil Kasaoka Islands. These islands are located about 15 km south of Kasaoka port, accessible by ferry or sea taxi.
With around 120 residents, Manabe-shima is fostering government-supported tourism initiatives. Local connections support businesses like Inn the Camp and the associated Motoe Cafe, which provide meals to elderly island residents in exchange for funding. Stop by for a coffee and cake, enjoy the view of traditional wooden houses near the port, then take the steep short detour across the hill for a seafood set menu feast at Santora located on the other side of the island.
Visit Shiraishi-jima, an island home to about 400 residents, for a leisurely stroll through its picturesque village. Alternatively, follow a trail leading to small shrines associated with the temple Kairyū-ji that leads to a hilltop boulder with stunning views over the beach. The International Villa offers five rooms, a communal kitchen, a sitting area, and a lovely deck area to unwind. With gentle waters in the Inland Sea, water sports activities such as kayaking or stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) are commonplace, enhancing the peaceful atmosphere of the island.
Art Base Gallery on Momoshima
A short ferry ride from Onomichi brings you to the island of Momoshima, where local government has invested in a new community center (designed by Toyo Ito), with several new guesthouses also being developed. The island’s main attraction, Art Base, is housed in a former high school building that has been transformed into a modern art gallery. Many Japanese artists, including Art Base director Yukinori Yanagi and installation specialist Noriyuki Haraguchi, have chosen to showcase their work here to attract art enthusiasts to the island, often featuring bold and thought-provoking pieces.
