Tohoku, Japan’s far north, is a land of elemental nature that hosts a wealth of fascinating ancient customs, mythical legends, and long-held traditions. The people who call Tohoku home understand the value of a moment and the preciousness of life.
Journeys to this less-frequented part of Japan – where Tokyo’s fast pace and urban sprawl seem worlds away – offer adventurers the opportunity to wander amongst breathtaking natural beauty and historical sites. Visitors can sample traditional ways of living in ancient Japanese villages, deepen their spirituality, and experience the kindness of strangers. These are just some of the reasons that Tohoku was voted a top region in GoTravelDaily’s Best in Travel 2020.
Samurai Treasures
Originally home to the indigenous Emishi people, Tohoku boasts a rich feudal history, having been settled by various samurai clans between the 7th and 9th centuries, much later than central and southwestern Japan.
Established in 1620 by Ashina Yoshikatsu, the lord of the Satake clan, the buke-yashiki in Kakunodate is arguably the country’s best-preserved samurai district. Many of its beautiful, traditional buildings now house museums reflecting life in feudal times, while others have “open doors,” inviting visitors to explore freely. The main street of the district is lined with ancient cherry trees, offering a spectacular sight during hanami (cherry-blossom viewing) season; visitors should have their cameras ready.
The town of Hiraizumi in Iwate prefecture was Tohoku’s first Unesco World Cultural Heritage listing and is celebrated for its stunning historic architecture, courtesy of the gold-mining Fujiwara clan in the 12th century. Hiraizumi’s main attraction is the Chūson-ji temple complex, which once comprised over 300 buildings, including 40 separate temples. The complex was ravaged by fire in 1337, but two original buildings survive, capturing the essence of Tohoku’s rich heritage.
In Fukushima prefecture, the expansive township of Aizu-Wakamatsu served as a feudal capital, and its attractions, including numerous famous sake breweries, are scattered throughout the town. Must-sees include the Aizu buke-yashiki and the intriguingly crooked Sazae-do temple building.
The Mythical and the Magical
Tohoku is also a realm of myth and legend, rich in spiritual tradition. Here, you’ll find the sacred land of Dewa Sanzan. According to Shugendō folk religion, Dewa Sanzan’s three peaks – Mt Haguro, Mt Gassan, and Mt Yudono – embody birth, death, and rebirth, respectively. Each year, tens of thousands of pilgrims journey here to trek alongside the yamabushi (mountain priests) on the well-trodden trail that connects the three mountains. Why not join them?
In close proximity lies the village of Risshaku-ji (Yamadera), immortalised by the itinerant Haiku master Matsuo Bashō in his classic “The Narrow Road to the Deep North.” Climbing the 1000 stone steps to the top of the temple rewards visitors with striking views. It is noteworthy that along the way, realizations about the journey’s significance can bring one closer to attaining enlightenment.
On the Shimokita Peninsula, nearly at the northern tip of Honshū, the hauntingly beautiful Osorezan-bodaiji temple honors Jizō Bosatsu, the protector of children and a revered deity in Japanese mythology. Following the 2011 earthquake and tsunami, the temple emerged as a symbol of healing and hope for many families. Visitors are encouraged to approach with an open heart and mind to appreciate its profound beauty, sadness, and serenity.
The Tōno Valley has long been steeped in myth and legend, renowned by writer Yanagita Kunio’s classic Legends of Tōno, which records numerous local stories about yokai (ghosts and spirits), including the legendary kappa (water imp). When in town, be sure to venture up to the enigmatic Gohyaku Rakan or, if seeking romance, visit the Unedori Sama shrine to increase your chances of finding true love.
Spectacular Nature
As one of Japan’s least densely populated areas, Tohoku is known for its stunning mountainous landscapes. Here, visitors are never far from volcanic peaks and lush forests. During the warmer months, those exploring the Towada-ko (Lake Towada) region, nestled in the Towada-Hachimantai National Park, are rewarded with breathtaking vistas and the chance to relax by the chilly, crystal-clear waters. However, the area’s crowning attraction is Matsushima, a stunning cluster of hundreds of wind and sea-battered islands.
Sublime Onsen
If you consider yourself an onsen aficionado, prioritizing visits to Tohoku’s unique and remote mountain hot springs is essential. Although reaching these sites may require extra effort, you’ll never forget the evening spent soaking your troubles away under a blanket of stars or retreating to your antique room, refreshed and ready to indulge in a sumptuous kaiseki banquet of local cuisine.
In the hills above Tazawa-ko (Lake Tazawa), at the end of a mountain road, lies Nyūto Onsen, featuring a remarkable selection of onsen that offer indoor, outdoor, and mixed bathing experiences. Plan for an overnight stay at one of the tranquil ryōkan (traditional Japanese inns) here, where eight onsen can be explored with a day pass.
Nestled in the Hakkōda-san (Mt Hakkoda) section of the Towada-Hachimantai National Park in Aomori prefecture is Sukayu Onsen, known as one of Japan’s finest traditional baths. The hot, acidic water is complemented by mixed bathing in a creaky wooden bathhouse that has endured numerous harsh winters.
Unforgettable Festivals
Tohoku celebrates a multitude of proud traditions that date back hundreds of years, each culminating in some of Japan’s most vibrant summer festivals. One of the biggest events in the region, Sendai Tanabata Matsuri, adorns the city with thousands of colorful streamers and paper decorations, commemorating an ancient Chinese legend about the ill-fated romance between two stars, Vega and Altair.
Other significant festivals include Aomori Neputa Matsuri and Hirosaki Neputa Matsuri, both showcasing elaborate illuminated floats paraded through the streets, accompanied by taiko drums and traditional song and dance. Equally mesmerizing, the Akita Kantō Matsuri features townsfolk expertly balancing beautifully-lit lanterns on towering poles as they parade through city streets to the rhythm of taiko drumming groups. If possible, joining in these festivities is highly encouraged!
Article first published in March 2018, and last updated in February 2020.
This article was first published Aug 20, 2019 and updated Feb 27, 2020.
