Experience Rio de Janeiro through the lens of a weekend getaway that balances adventure with relaxation and culinary delights.
Contents:
My partner has the rather inconvenient habit of residing in Rio de Janeiro, while I tend to stay in London. The only silver lining to our mutual frustration with the Atlantic Ocean is that it allows me to visit the Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvelous City) on a regular basis.
In December, a weekend excursion to Rio served as the launchpad for a delightful Christmas in Brazil. While we also made visits to Iguazú Falls and Florianópolis during the same trip, I will focus on our weekend in Rio to illustrate how we maximized our budget.
Pre-trip spending
Flights: £769.80 return from London Gatwick to Rio de Janeiro with Norwegian Air. This was during peak travel season in December, and it is typical to find more economical flights with this budget long-haul carrier. I chose to travel in a lower class where meals were not provided, but I prudently enjoyed a hearty breakfast at Nando’s in Gatwick South Terminal(£7.30), and packed a meal deal and other snacks (£6.98) for the journey. Beverages can be ordered from the seat, so I indulged in a couple of lagers (£12) while watching The Dark Knight Trilogy.
Accommodation: Complimentary! My partner graciously offered me accommodation at her residence, conveniently located near the Maracanã Football Stadium in Zona Norte. For those without a similarly accommodating local partner and seeking affordable lodging, consider Urca, known for its laid-back atmosphere beneath the Sugarloaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar), or if you prefer nightlife, explore hostels in Lapa. For quintessential accommodation choices, both Ipanema and Copacabana are excellent options. It is advisable to avoid the alluringly cheap hotel deals in Centro, which can be quiet (and hazardous) during nighttime and weekends.
Total pre-trip spending: £796.08
On the ground
Friday night
Total: R$56.49 (£10.03), shared between two of us (£5.02)
9.30pm: I arrive tired yet upbeat, and we promptly arrange for an Uber (R$34) to my partner’s residence. Although I am not usually an ‘Uber’ user in London, I found them to be the most cost-effective and safest transportation option in Brazil.
We opted for yakisoba (R$22.49) for dinner, and while enjoying the noodles, I feign nonchalance despite my partner’s cats showing me remarkable indifference.
Saturday
Total spend: R$418.16 (£74.30), shared between two of us (£37.15)
10am: We venture to Ipanema, this time deciding to take the metro (R$3.80 each) to save some funds. The 40-minute journey allows our appetites to kick in, leading us directly to the ever-popular Gringo Cafe upon our arrival at General Osario station. We each order an American-style breakfast accompanied by a generous serving of black coffee (R$78) as I cautiously practice my basic Portuguese with the waiter, who graciously pretends to comprehend my attempts.
11.30am: Having been in Rio for 14 hours without visiting the beach (a real tragedy!), we promptly decide to rectify that by strolling to Posto 9 Ipanema. I was informed that this spot is favored by the most attractive individuals in Rio. Expecting to be denied entry, I am pleasantly surprised when a jogger approaches to offer us a sunbed instead of refusing me access.
Arranging beach chairs in this manner is wise, as vendors ensure you are never far from coconut water refreshments. A seat and one coconut water cost us a reasonable R$16.
1pm: In a typical turn of events, we opted to lounge on the beach during the period when clouds rolled in. Misled by the weather, we mistakenly believed that sunscreen was unnecessary and subsequently paid the price. Ignorant of our impending sunburn, we enjoyed some beers at Rayz (R$14).
We proceeded to lunch at La Carioca Cevicheria, blissfully savouring the first (of many) caipirinhas of the trip, along with a shared platter of fried prawns and a ceviche each. My half of the bill totaled R$92.40.
3pm: A quick visit to the pharmacy for much-needed sunscreen (refer back to 1pm) leads us to walk off the flavors of our Peruvian lunch around Rio’s Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas. This picturesque lake offers stunning views of Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor) as well as Rio’s impressive floating Christmas tree. While pedal boats are available for rental, we settled for another coconut water (R$2) followed by a leisurely stroll (free).
4pm: We take the metro (R$3.80) back home and grab another beer at a nearby bar. The heat is substantial at this point, making the chope (beer) ideal for cooling off. As night descends, we head to the vibrant Bar Do Bode Cheiroso for dinner. This establishment features standing room only, filled with numerous locals enjoying post-work refreshments and conversation. The award-winning cuisine prompts us to order plenty of pastéis (fried stuffed pies). A table finally opens up, but it is indoors where the heat makes me uncomfortable. Noticing my predicament, the waiter offers us a complimentary chope, which still leads us to make a timely exit. The total expenditure came to R$83.60.
9pm: We have pre-arranged tickets (R$53.40 for two) to attend the latest Star Wars film premiere in Cinelândia, and take an Uber to the venue (R$26.70). We have a few additional pre-show beers at Amerhilino de Cerveceria (R$22) before venturing into a galaxy far, far away. Post-film, we utilize an Uber to return home (R$22.46).
Sunday
Total spend: R$297.90 (£52.91), again shared between us (£26.46)
11am: Our late start is a result of the midnight screening from the previous evening. We rush for brunch at Parque Lage, situated in the heart of Rio’s botanical gardens. Brunch is served within a lovely dilapidated mansion offering breathtaking views of Christ the Redeemer. The only minor inconvenience is the incessant stream of Instagram enthusiasts vying for the perfect shot. Nonetheless, I subscribe to the philosophy of joining in rather than resisting (see my unfiltered attempt below). The fixed brunch price comes to R$48.
Subsequently, we explore the charming botanical gardens (free) before hailing a taxi to Urca (R$18.60).
2pm: With clear skies, we decide to ascend Sugarloaf Mountain for breathtaking views of Rio. You can reach the summit via a cable car servicing two mountains, but we opt to tackle the hiking trail to the first peak, Morro da Urca. This scenic trek through the forest rewards us with spectacular views. Upon reaching the summit, we take the second cable car (R$44 for two) to Sugarloaf, where we spend half an hour marveling at Rio de Janeiro’s splendor from above.
5pm: The arduous walking makes us thirsty, so once back on solid ground, we meander through lovely Urca to my preferred drinking spot, Bar Urca. Known for its exceptional caipirinhas, this location attracts locals who travel from afar to enjoy a drink by the seawall while watching the sunset. We leisurely enjoy a couple of drinks over a few hours alongside some shrimp pastéis, totaling R$68.
8pm: We secure another Uber to Botafogo (R$18.50), a neighborhood rapidly becoming one of the trendiest areas in Rio. Numerous excellent restaurants line the main street, Rua Nelson Mandela. We settle on tapas at Liceu Grill, which amounts to (R$83.50). Recognizing the necessity of rising early for our flight to Iguazú at 3am, we forego additional wine and finalize our bill. With one last Uber (R$17.30), we return home to prepare.
The final tally
Overall spend: R$772.55 (£137.24) between two; thus R$386.27 (£68.62) + flights (£769.80) = £838.42
